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For an 8×8 gable shed on skids, the main items on the 8×8 shed material list are 70 framing 2x4s, 9 treated 2x6s, 3 treated 4x4s, 2 sheets of 3/4 in plywood, 4 of OSB, 10 of T1-11 and 4 shingle bundles. It assumes 94 1/2 in walls, a 6/12 roof and 16 in spacing.

Every quantity and cut length here comes from the 3DSHEDPLANS plan generator’s 3D model of each stud, rafter and sheet, which passed all 67 checks of our framing audit, such as rafter span, header depth and sheet coverage. It is a shopping aid, not a stamped engineering drawing. The list covers one 39 in single door and one 36 x 36 in window.

What this 8×8 shed material list assumes

The generator ran a shed 8 ft deep and 8 ft wide, 64 sq ft of floor, with the door in a front eave wall. These are its settings:

  • Walls: 94 1/2 in tall including the bottom plate and double top plate, so wall studs are cut to 90 in (7′ 6″).
  • Spacing: studs, floor joists and rafters all at 16 in on center.
  • Roof: 6/12 pitch, 2×4 rafters, a 2×6 ridge board, 8 in eave overhang and 4 in rake overhang. The roof works out to about 89 sq ft.
  • Floor: three pressure-treated 4×4 skids, about 46 in apart, under 2×6 joists cut to 7′ 9″ and 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood. The skids sit on a crushed stone pad 10 x 10 ft and 4 in deep, 12 in wider than the shed on every side.
  • Loads: the 2×4 rafters pass a span table check at 30 psf ground snow (SPF #2 at 16 in, 48 in run). That is the generator’s design assumption; if your snow load may be higher, check your local permit office before you buy rafter stock.
  • Openings: a 39 in wide single door on 76 1/2 in trimmers in the front wall, and one 36 x 36 in window in the back wall. On an 8 ft deep shed the gable walls are too narrow to keep a window clear of the center stud under the ridge, so the window goes in the back.

Our 8×8 gable shed plan is a different layout: 76 1/2 in sidewalls and a 27 x 68 in door. Its printable list is built for those walls, so if you buy the plan, shop from the plan’s list.

Shopping list by stage

Lumber sizes are nominal, and the span check assumes SPF #2 or better framing lumber. A 2×4 measures about 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in, as the American Wood Council explains. Check the grade stamp on plywood and OSB; the APA trademark guide shows how to read it.

Totals at a glance

Material Total
2×4 framing boards, all lengths 70
2×4 x 12 ft for temporary braces 8
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 8 ft (7 joists, 2 rims) 9
Pressure-treated 4×4 x 8 ft (skids) 3
2×6 (2 header boards, 1 ridge) 3
3/4 in T&G plywood sheets (floor) 2 (3 if the net face is under 48 in)
7/16 in OSB sheets (roof) 4
5/8 in T1-11 sheets (walls, gable, door leaf) 10
1/2 in plywood sheet (soffit, header fillers) 1
3-tab shingle bundles 4

Some 8×8 lists online show fewer 2x4s. This count frames rafters at 16 in, puts a rafter tie on every interior pair and adds two corner backer studs to each eave wall.

Floor

Item Qty Used for
Pressure-treated 4×4 x 8 ft, tagged for ground contact 3 Skids, full length
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 8 ft 9 7 floor joists cut to 7′ 9″ and 2 rim joists at 8′ 0″
3/4 in T&G plywood, 4×8 sheet 2 Floor decking (64 sq ft at full sheet size; see Where the waste goes for a third)
Crushed stone 3/4 in, loose 1.5 cu yd Gravel pad, measured loose before tamping
Deck screws 2 in (or 6d ring-shank nails), rated for treated lumber 3 lb Decking

Walls and roof framing

Item Qty Used for
2×4 x 8 ft 51 30 wall studs, plates, cap plates, cripples, the window sill, gable studs, lookout and frieze blocks
2×4 x 10 ft 8 5 rafter ties, collar ties, lower window cripples, frieze blocks
2×4 x 12 ft 9 14 rafters and 4 fly rafters, two from each board
2×4 x 14 ft 2 Door and window trimmers
2×6 x 8 ft 2 Door and window headers
2×6 x 10 ft 1 Ridge board
Hurricane ties, H2.5A type or equal 14 Rafter to plate
2×4 x 12 ft, temporary 8 Wall braces, reused later; cut the 8 stakes from offcuts

The two header filler strips of 1/2 in plywood are ripped from the soffit sheet, so buy that sheet with the wall lumber.

Roof covering

Item Qty Used for
7/16 in OSB, 4×8 sheet 4 Roof sheathing
15 lb felt, 400 sq ft roll 1 Underlayment
3-tab shingles, 26 per bundle 4 bundles Roof, starter course and ridge cap
Drip edge, 10 ft 5 Eaves and rakes
Roofing nails 1 1/4 in galvanized 5 lb Shingles
Roofing cap nails 1 in 1 lb Felt
Roofing cement, 10 oz tube 2 Roofing
Insect screen, 2 ft x 25 ft 1 roll The screened vent gap under the gable rafters and gaps at the eaves

Siding and trim

Item Qty Used for
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet 8 Walls (256 sq ft, before the door and window cut-outs)
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet 1 Both gable triangles, cut as strips
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet 1 Door leaf
1/2 in plywood, 4×8 sheet 1 Eave soffit and header fillers
Z-flashing, 10 ft 2 Wall siding to gable siding joint
Drip cap, 10 ft 1 Over the door and window head casings
1×6 x 10 ft 2 Eave fascia
1×6 x 12 ft 2 Rake fascia, two pieces from each board
1×4 x 16 ft 2 Corner trim on the eave walls
1×4 x 14 ft 2 Door casing sides and door stiles
1×4 x 10 ft 1 Door rails
1×4 x 8 ft 8 Gable-wall corner trim, door head casing, window casings, door Z braces
1×2 x 8 ft 2 Door stops
Exterior paint and primer in one 3 gal Two coats of about 380 sq ft each (sized at 300 sq ft a gallon for rough T1-11, plus 10 percent)
Exterior caulk 3 tubes Trim

Hardware and window

Item Qty
Framing nails 3 1/2 in (16d), hot-dip galvanized (about 789 nails plus 10 percent) 22 lb
Siding nails 2 1/2 in (8d), hot-dip galvanized 10 lb
Sheathing nails 2 1/2 in (8d) for OSB 5 lb
Connector nails 1 1/2 in for the hurricane ties 2 lb
Construction adhesive, 10 oz tube 3
T-strap door hinges 3
Door handle and latch set 1
Exterior screws 1 1/4 in (door frame to T1-11) 1 lb
Exterior screws 2 1/2 in (hinge straps into framing) 1 box
Prefabricated window, 36 x 36 in rough opening 1
Flashing tape 4 in 1 roll
Wood shims 1 bundle

Cut list highlights

Most of the 8×8 cut list is square cuts: 30 wall studs at 7′ 6″, 7 floor joists at 7′ 9″ and three 8′ 0″ skids. These have angles, overhangs or more than one length.

Part Lumber Cut length Qty
Rafter (board length, see below) 2×4 5′ 3 1/2″ 14
Fly rafter (rake) 2×4 5′ 3 1/2″ 4
Ridge board 2×6 8′ 8″ 1
Rafter tie (interior pairs, at the plates) 2×4 8′ 0″ 5
Collar tie 2×4 3′ 0 1/2″ 3
Lookout block (rake overhang) 2×4 2 1/2″ 16
Frieze block (over the eave walls, top beveled) 2×4 1′ 1″ (8), 1′ 0 1/4″ and 1′ 1 3/4″ (2 each) 12
Door header (2×6 doubled + 1/2 ply) 2×6 3′ 6″ 2
Door trimmer 2×4 6′ 4 1/2″ 2
Window header (2×6 doubled + 1/2 ply) 2×6 3′ 3″ 2
Window trimmer 2×4 6′ 1″ 2
Center gable stud (under the ridge) 2×4 1′ 8 3/4″ 2
Gable end studs 2×4 7 1/8″ and 1′ 3 1/8″ 4 each
Side wall plates 2×4 7′ 4 7/8″ 4
Front and back cap plates 2×4 7′ 5″ 2
Front and back wall plates, side cap plates 2×4 8′ 0″ 6

Rafters. The 5′ 3 1/2″ figure is the board each rafter needs, measured long point to long point on the top edge from the ridge plumb cut to the tail plumb cut, including the 8 in eave overhang. Two of them (127 in) come out of each 12 ft 2×4, with about 16 1/2 in left after the kerfs, so the 18 rafters and fly rafters take 9 boards.

Mark the plumb cuts with a speed square pivoted to 6 on the common scale (26.6 degrees). The birdsmouth seat is 2 1/2 in, which makes the notch about 1 1/8 in deep, inside the generator’s one-third-of-depth limit. Cut one pattern rafter, test it at both ends of the ridge, then trace the other 13. The 4 fly rafters hang off the lookout blocks and the ridge extension, so they get the ridge plumb cut but no birdsmouth.

Ridge. The ridge is one 2×6 cut to 8′ 8″, running 4 in past each gable wall to carry the fly rafters. A 10 ft board leaves 16 in. The 2×6 is deeper than the 3.9 in plumb cut on a 2×4 rafter, so the full rafter end bears on it.

Headers. The 39 in door opening gets a doubled 2×6 header with a 1/2 in plywood filler, on trimmers cut to 6′ 4 1/2″, with three 8 in cripples above it. The bottom plate is cut out of the doorway after the wall is up, so the door swings over the floor. The window gets a doubled 2×6 header on 6′ 1″ trimmers, three 11 1/2″ cripples above, a 3′ 0″ sill and three 2′ 11 1/2″ cripples below, for a rough sill 37 in above the bottom plate.

Gable studs. Each 8 ft gable has one 1′ 8 3/4″ center stud plus four end studs in two lengths, 7 1/8″ and 1′ 3 1/8″. At 6/12 each stud 16 in further from the corner is 8 in taller, which is why the two lengths are 8 in apart. Measure each one off your actual end rafter before cutting.

Plates. The side walls have 7′ 4 7/8″ bottom and top plates, 1/8 in short of the gap between the front and back walls so a framed side wall drops in without a sledge. Their 8′ 0″ cap plates lap over the front and back walls to lock the corners, and the front and back cap plates are cut 7 in short to 7′ 5″.

Siding at the rim. On the front and back walls the T1-11 laps the rim joist by 2 7/16 in and is nailed into it. On the side walls it laps only 3/4 in, too little to nail into the rim, so it is nailed into the bottom plate instead, 2 1/4 in up from the bottom edge.

Gable vs lean-to: what changes

We ran the same 8×8 footprint as a lean-to (single-slope) roof at 3/12, with an 80 in low back wall, the same 39 in door in the high front wall and the window in the back wall. That is a generator run for comparison, not one of our plan layouts. The lean-to passed all 56 of its audit checks. The skids, joists and decking stay the same; the studs, rafters and siding change.

Item Gable (6/12) Generator lean-to (3/12)
Rafters 14 2×4 at 5′ 3 1/2″ + 4 fly 7 2×4 at 9′ 8 3/8″ + 2 fly
Ridge board 2×6, 8′ 8″ None
Wall studs 7′ 6″ on all four walls 8′ 2 5/8″ front, 6′ 3 1/2″ back, seven lengths on each side
2×4 framing boards bought 70 53
2×6 boards bought (not treated) 3 2
T1-11 sheets 10, all 4×8 9: four 4×9, five 4×8
Roof OSB sheets 4 4
Shingle bundles 4 3
Felt 1 roll 1 roll, laid double below 4/12
Fascia boards 1×6: 2 at 10 ft, 2 at 12 ft 1×6: 4 at 10 ft
Framing nails 22 lb 16 lb
Extra hardware 2 Z-flashing 4 twist straps at the wall corners
Floor 3 skids, 7 joists, 2 sheets 3 skids, 7 joists, 2 sheets

On an 8 ft deep lean-to the 2×4 rafters still work: the generator checks an 89 in span against a 98 in limit for 2×4 at 30 psf. Each side wall has 7 studs stepping from 6′ 5 3/8″ to 8′ 3 1/4″ under a 7′ 7 3/4″ sloped top plate, so lay them out on the deck before cutting.

The high front wall and part of each side wall take 4×9 siding sheets, which some yards have to order. At 3/12, read the minimum slope on the shingle wrapper and follow the maker’s low-slope instructions. For more on single-slope builds, see how to build a lean-to shed, the 6×6 lean-to shed plan, all lean-to shed plans and our gable vs lean-to vs hip roof comparison.

Where the waste goes

  • Wall studs: 90 in studs leave about 6 in from each 8 ft board. For these 90 in studs, precut 92 5/8 in studs also work; trim 2 5/8 in off each.
  • Rafters: two 63 1/2 in rafters from a 12 ft board leave about 16 1/2 in, so a mis-cut rafter means a new board.
  • Floor joists: 7′ 9″ from an 8 ft board leaves 3 in for squaring the ends.
  • Rafter ties: the five 8′ 0″ ties come from 10 ft boards, leaving about 2 ft each. Cut 5 of the 8 brace stakes (just under 24 in after the saw kerf) from these and the other 3 from any 2×4 offcut at least 24 in long.
  • No trim room: the skids, rim joists, front and back wall plates and side cap plates are all 8′ 0″, a whole 8 ft board. Measure these at the yard and check that the factory ends are square.
  • Fascia and ridge: each 8′ 8″ eave fascia and the ridge leave 16 in from a 10 ft board. Each 12 ft rake fascia board gives two 5′ 3 1/2″ pieces with about 16 1/2 in left.
  • Sheets: 2 floor sheets cover 64 sq ft at full size and 8 wall sheets cover exactly 256 sq ft, so buy one spare T1-11 sheet if a damaged sheet would mean a long trip back to the yard. Many tongue and groove panels cover about 47 1/2 in net, so two sheets side by side can land about 1 in short of 8 ft. Check the net face width on the label; if it is under 48 in, buy a third sheet and rip a filler strip from it for the last edge.
  • No spares: the counts include nothing for rejects. Sight down each board’s edge at the yard, skip bowed or twisted ones, and add a few 2×4 x 8 ft if you expect to cull some.

Tools and crew for an 8×8 build

  • Circular saw, speed square and framing square for 30 stud cuts and 18 rafters; cut the 2 1/2 in lookout blocks from a long clamped stick with a stop block, never as loose scraps
  • Framing hammer or framing nailer, and a drill/driver for the screws
  • 4 ft level and a 25 ft tape for checking that the floor diagonals match
  • A hand tamper or a rented plate compactor for 1.5 cu yd of gravel, laid in thin layers
  • A 6 ft stepladder set on the deck for the ridge and fly rafters; never stand on the top cap or the walls
  • A crew: the generator plans for one helper on most steps and 2 helpers (3 people) to raise the back wall

Common mistakes

  • Mixing up this list and the plan’s list. Our 8×8 plan has 76 1/2 in sidewalls and a 27 in door; this list is for 94 1/2 in walls and a 39 in door. Stud, trimmer, siding and gable sizes all change between the two.
  • Forgetting the door sheet. The siding cut out of the doorway is 76 1/2 in tall, shorter than the 77 1/4 in door leaf, so the leaf needs its own new T1-11 sheet.
  • Skipping rafter ties. A ridge board is not a beam. The 5 rafter ties at the plates stop the walls from spreading; the 3 collar ties higher up do not replace them.
  • Two skids instead of three. The generator keeps skids no more than 48 in apart. Three under an 8 ft floor land about 46 in apart; two would leave the middle of the floor unsupported.
  • Swapping materials without recounting. This list is for 3-tab shingles and T1-11. Architectural shingles, metal roofing or lap siding cover differently, so recount from the coverage printed on the bundle or the maker’s install guide.
  • Untreated wood near the ground. Skids, rims and joists are pressure treated; plain framing lumber there rots. Use ground-contact rated wood for the skids, and hot-dip galvanized nails and treated-lumber rated screws in treated wood. The USDA Wood Handbook covers why wet, untreated wood decays.

Many towns set floor-area and height limits for sheds that need no permit, and an 8×8 can land on either side of them, so check your local permit office before you order. Our shed permit checklist lists what to ask.

For the base under the skids, see shed foundation options. To compare 2×4 counts across sizes, see how many 2x4s to build a shed, and for other sizes try the shed material calculator.

Get the full plan

The 8×8 gable shed plan is a 3DSHEDPLANS PDF for this footprint with 40+ steps, 3D images and its own printable material list for its 27 x 68 in door. Need a 39 in door for wider equipment? The 10×8 gable shed plan has one. For a little less or more room, see the 8×6 gable shed plan and the 8×10 gable shed plan, and compare the 8×10 shed material list.

Want to see the format first? Download the free 8×8 gable shed plan preview PDF. Not sure 64 sq ft is enough? Read what size shed do I need or browse every size on the shed plans page.

Frequently asked questions

Is there a free 8×8 shed plan with a materials list?

This page is a free 8×8 materials list with cut lengths, made by our plan generator for a gable shed on skids. The 3DSHEDPLANS 8×8 gable shed plan PDF has its own printable list for its 27 inch door, and its free preview PDF shows the format first.

How many 2x4s do I need for an 8×8 shed?

70 for the framing of an 8×8 gable shed with a 39 inch door and one window: 51 at 8 ft, 8 at 10 ft, 9 at 12 ft and 2 at 14 ft. Rafters sit at 16 in with a tie on every interior pair. Add 8 2×4 x 12 ft for temporary wall braces.

How many sheets of plywood, OSB and siding for an 8×8 shed?

2 sheets of 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood for the floor, 4 sheets of 7/16 in OSB for the roof, 10 sheets of 5/8 in T1-11 (8 walls, 1 gable, 1 door leaf) and 1 sheet of 1/2 in plywood for the soffit and header fillers.

How many bundles of shingles for an 8×8 shed roof?

4 bundles of 3-tab shingles for an 8×8 gable roof at 6/12, which is about 89 sq ft with an 8 in eave and 4 in rake overhang. That count includes the starter course, ridge cap and about 10 percent extra. A 3/12 lean-to roof takes 3 bundles.

What lumber do I need for an 8×8 shed floor?

Three pressure-treated 4×4 x 8 ft skids, nine pressure-treated 2×6 x 8 ft (seven joists cut to 7' 9" and two 8' 0" rims) and two sheets of 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood, set on a crushed stone pad.

Shed building guides