Gable roof · 80 sq ft
DIY 8x10 Gable Storage Shed Plan
Build this 8x10 gable shed yourself. Every board, cut and step, drawn in 3D across 68 pages.
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The 8x10 shed material list in this 3DSHEDPLANS plan covers an 80 sq ft gable storage shed on 4x4 skids, with a 6 ft double door in the 10 ft front wall, two 2x3 ft windows, a wheel-in ramp and a 6/12 roof. The PDF has 68 pages in 28 sections, 19 of them build steps.
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The full plan is $19.99: buy the 8×10 gable shed plan. To see the drawing style first, open the free 8×10 gable shed plan PDF, a short preview.
8×10 shed plan: the numbers for a site check
| Check | 8×10 Gable Shed |
|---|---|
| Walls | 10′ wide (door side) x 8′ deep, 80 sq ft of floor |
| Roof footprint with overhangs | 10′ 9 1/2″ x 10′ 1 1/2″ (12″ eaves, 4″ rakes), about 109 sq ft |
| Gravel pad | 12′ wide, 15′ 7 1/2″ out at the door with the ramp landing, about 2.6 cu yd of 3/4″ stone in a pressure-treated 4×6 frame |
| Floor height | Top of the deck 9 3/4″ above the ground |
| Wall height | 7′ 10 1/2″ (7′ 6″ studs on a single bottom and double top plate), top of the walls 8′ 8 1/4″ above the ground |
| Overall height | 10′ 11 5/16″ above the ground |
| Door rough opening | 72″ wide x 76 1/2″ tall, double door, 2′ 0″ to 8′ 0″ from the left corner of the front wall, 6′ 5 1/4″ clear under the head stop |
| Window rough openings | 2, each 24″ x 36″, one in each 8 ft side wall at the front end, sill 42″ above the bottom plate |
| Ramp | Detachable, 6′ 9″ wide, 3′ 6″ out, 1:6 slope |
| Crew and time | Two people, about 48 hours plus the ramp |
Which way it faces: the door is in the 10 ft front wall. The ridge runs side to side, parallel to the door wall, so the eaves sit over the front and back walls and the gable triangles are on the two 8 ft side walls. The rafters span the 8 ft depth, and the 12″ front eave drips about a foot out past the door, onto the top of the ramp. Square the layout stakes and mark the roof footprint, not just the walls, when you check the yard.
How the 8×10 shed plan goes together
The PDF has 19 build-step sections. Here is how the plan’s time table splits the work.
| Stage | What the plan uses | Time for two |
|---|---|---|
| Site and foundation | Three pressure-treated 4×4 skids, 10 ft long, on 4″ of compacted crushed stone in a pressure-treated pad frame | 4 h |
| Floor frame and deck | Nine pressure-treated 2×6 joists 16″ on center between 10 ft rims, 3/4″ tongue and groove plywood | 5 h |
| Walls | 2×4 studs 16″ on center, raised as bare frames, then sided with 5/8″ T1-11 | 12 h |
| Roof framing | 18 2×4 rafters 16″ on center against a 2×6 ridge, with rafter ties and collar ties | 8 h |
| Sheathing and roofing | 7/16″ OSB, drip edge, 15 lb felt and 3-tab asphalt shingles | 10 h |
| Door, windows and trim | A double door built from T1-11 and 1×4 frames, two prefabricated windows, fascia, soffit, vents and paint | 9 h |
The three skids are full 10 ft boards set 3′ 10 1/4″ on center, and the two 10 ft rims sit on the outer two. Nine joists 7′ 9″ long fill the frame. Three sheets of tongue and groove plywood cover it, and two 5 ft filler strips ripped from one 12 ft 1×4 to 1″ take up the last inch of the 8 ft depth.
How the walls go up
Each wall is framed flat on the deck, squared by its diagonals and raised as a bare frame by two people. The siding goes on after all four stand, so nothing heavy is nailed on while the wall lies flat.
| Order | Wall | Bare frame weight |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Back wall, 10 ft, 11 studs | About 130 lb |
| 2 | Front wall with the door opening, 10 ft | About 160 lb |
| 3 | Left wall with a window, 8 ft | About 120 lb |
| 4 | Right wall with a window, 8 ft | About 120 lb |
- Brace at once. Never leave a raised wall unbraced, and never raise one in gusty wind. The 12 ft 2×4 braces run to stakes about 5 ft out, so the deck stays clear for the next wall.
- The front wall walks. With the back wall up, the free deck is shorter than the front wall needs to tip up flat. The plan frames it facing the other way, tips it up there and walks it across the deck to the front edge.
- Side walls drop in. Their plates are 7′ 4 3/4″ long to fit between the front and back walls, so plumb those two first.
- Hanging the siding. Screw a straight 2×4 ledger to the floor frame at the siding’s bottom line, stand each sheet on it, have your helper hold it plumb while you tack the top corners, then nail it off.
The nailed floor frame weighs about 200 lb, so the plan has you build it in place on the skids and square it there.
What is on the 8×10 shed material list
The shopping list is split by stage, so you can buy the floor first and the roof later, in the stock lengths that waste the least. These are the big lines, copied from the plan:
| Stage | Main items and counts |
|---|---|
| Foundation and floor | 3 pressure-treated 4×4 x 10 ft skids, 2 pressure-treated 2×6 x 10 ft rims, 9 pressure-treated 2×6 x 8 ft joists, 3 sheets of 3/4″ tongue and groove plywood, a 12 ft 1×4 for the filler strips |
| Walls | 2×4 plates and studs, a doubled 2×8 door header, two doubled 2×6 window headers, 9 sheets of 5/8″ T1-11, 2 pieces of Z-flashing |
| Roof framing | 2×4 x 12 ft boards for 18 rafters and 4 fly rafters, a 2×6 x 12 ft ridge, 7 rafter ties, 4 collar ties, gable studs, 14 hurricane ties and 8 framing angles |
| Roof covering | 5 sheets of OSB, 1 roll of 15 lb felt, 5 bundles of 3-tab shingles (starter and ridge cap included), 8 pieces of drip edge |
| Fascia, soffit and gables | 4 pieces of 1×6 x 12 ft for the fascia, 2 sheets of 1/2″ plywood for the soffits, 1 T1-11 sheet for the gable ends, 2 louvered 8 x 8 in gable vents, 2 screened 16 x 8 in under-eave vents |
| Door and windows | 2 new T1-11 sheets for the door leaves, 6 T-strap hinges, a handle and latch, 2 barrel bolts, 2 brush sweeps, 2 hold-open hooks, an aluminum threshold cap, 2 prefabricated 24 x 36 in windows |
| Ramp | 2 pressure-treated 2×10 x 8 ft for the stringers, 8 deck boards from 4 pressure-treated 2×6 x 14 ft, a ledger, 2 hook-and-eye latches, 141 deck screws, grit tape |
| Hardware and finish | 29 lb of framing nails, siding, sheathing and roofing nails, 4 ground anchors, adhesive, flashing tape, caulk, insect screen, 4 gallons of paint and primer, 2.6 cu yd of crushed stone and a pad frame of 4×6 boards |
The longest boards are 16 ft, for the corner trim and the pad frame. The temporary braces, stakes and deck cleats for raising the walls are in the totals, and the braces can be reused after the build. Add 2 or 3 spare studs for bad boards, as the plan suggests. A cut list gives the length and count of every part, and a cutting plan shows which board each piece comes from.
What you can fit in an 8×10 shed
The plan includes a to-scale drawing of one way to fill the floor, and it sells only what that drawing shows:
- A riding mower. A 42 in deck mower is 4′ 7 3/16″ wide and 5′ 10″ long, and parks nose in. With both leaves open the clear width is about 5′ 11 1/2″, so it clears each side by 8 1/8″. A 48 in deck fits with its deflector raised, and a 54 in deck does not.
- Shelves. The mower parks about 1″ off the back wall, between two shelf runs. The drawing leaves room for 12″ shelves in 2 ft runs on the back wall; they are not in the plan’s lists.
- Behind the mower. That leaves about 18 in of cross aisle between the front wall and the mower’s tail. It is room for you on foot, not for a wheelbarrow, so anything on wheels goes in before the mower.
- Room in front. Keep 9′ 6″ clear and level, measured from the wall, for the ramp and one mower length, so a tractor lines up square.
- Headroom. The clear height from the deck to the underside of the top plates is 7′ 7 1/2″.
- A small lip, not a step. The floor sits 9 3/4″ up, and the ramp ends about 13/16″ below the deck.
If a rider is why you are buying, measure it first: width through the door, and length for the 9′ 6″ run in front.
The 8×10 double door and windows: what changed
Earlier versions of this plan used a pre-built 7×7 ft roll-up door, then a 60″ double door with one window in the back wall. This version has a 72″ double door and two windows, one in each 8 ft side wall:
- Opening: 72″ wide by 76 1/2″ tall, 2′ 0″ to 8′ 0″ from the left corner, under a doubled 2×8 header. The plate is cut out across the opening.
- Leaves: two, each 35 5/8″ wide and 6′ 5 1/4″ tall, cut from new T1-11 sheets because the siding cut from the opening is too short. Both swing out.
- Hanging: three T-strap hinges per leaf, a 1×2 stop under the header, a 1×2 astragal on the fixed leaf, barrel bolts top and bottom on that leaf and the latch on the other. A 6″ hook and eye holds each open leaf against the wall.
- Open leaves: each free end reaches 11 5/8″ past the framing corner, so the open doors span 11′ 11 1/4″. Keep fences, beds and bins about 4 ft clear of the front wall on each side of the door.
- Windows: two prefabricated units, each a 24″ x 36″ rough opening, 12″ in from the front wall, with the sill 42″ above the bottom plate.
Rain and snow off the front slope land where the leaves swing, so in snow country the door can need shoveling out.
Stick-framed rafters on an 8×10 gable roof
The 2017 version built trusses. This 3DSHEDPLANS plan frames the roof with 18 2×4 rafters 16″ on center against a 2×6 ridge board 10′ 8″ long, plus 4 fly rafters on the rakes. Each rafter board is 5′ 8″ long with a birdsmouth (a 2 1/2″ seat and a 1 1/4″ heel), two rafters come from each 12 ft board, and the roof rises 2′ 2 5/16″ from the top of the walls to the top of the ridge.
- Ridge first. A 1′ 8 13/16″ center gable stud sits on each side wall and holds the ridge while the first pairs go on.
- Ties. A 2×4 rafter tie sits on the plates beside each of the 7 interior pairs, and 4 collar ties go on every other interior pair. Flat 2×4 ties also tie each gable wall plate to the first 2 rafter ties.
- Hurricane ties. Each of the other 14 rafters gets one at the plate, and the 4 end rafters at the corners take framing angles instead.
- Pattern rafter. Cut one, test it on both sides, then cut the rest.
- Not a loft. The rafter ties keep the walls from spreading. A few light boards laid across them is the limit.
Ventilation is on the list: 2 louvered 8 x 8 in gable vents, 2 screened 16 x 8 in under-eave vents, and slots over the frieze blocks. The plan prints the arithmetic: about 90 sq in of net free area, against about 77 sq in from the common floor area / 150 rule of thumb, which is not a shed requirement. In heavy snow or high wind areas, ask about loads and check your local permit office before you build.
Free 8×10 shed plan PDF vs the full plan
The free PDF shows how the plan is drawn and what the shed looks like. The full plan adds all 28 sections, the shopping list, the cut list, the cutting plan, the stud layout tables for each wall and the fastener schedule, so you can price the shed and build it without guessing.
Before you build an 8×10 gable shed
- Permits. At 80 sq ft of floor, about 109 sq ft to the roof edge and 10′ 11 5/16″ tall, this shed may fall inside or outside local size and height limits, and setback rules vary by town and HOA. Call 811 before you dig, and check your local permit office before you buy lumber.
- Skids. Use ground-contact rated pressure-treated 4x4s (UC4A or higher), set each one crown up, and raise a low skid with more gravel or treated shims, never untreated wood.
- Anchors. An empty shed on loose skids can slide in a strong gust, which is why 4 ground anchors along the two outside skids are on the list. Check your local permit office for what your area asks.
- Build the floor in place. The nailed floor frame weighs about 200 lb and racks if you lift it, so frame it on top of the skids.
- Keep it dry. Leave 6″ or more between the siding and the soil or mulch, and check the roof, caulk and skids every spring.
- Materials. Store lumber flat and covered, since wet wood decays faster (USDA Forest Products Laboratory Wood Handbook). Check the stamp on each OSB sheet for its span rating (APA: OSB).
Tools and ladders the plan lists
Beyond a circular saw, drill/driver and framing hammer, the tool list adds a miter saw for the door braces and trim, a reciprocating saw for the cuts a circular saw cannot reach, a 3 lb sledge for the pad frame spikes and brace stakes, two 24″ bar clamps for marking the rims and a hand tamper for the pad. Two 8 ft step ladders reach the ridge, and a 16 ft extension ladder covers roof work from the eave, about 8′ 8″ up.
Related plans
- The same 80 sq ft with the door in an 8 ft wall: the 10×8 gable shed plan.
- 2 ft longer with the same 8 ft depth: the 8×12 gable shed plan.
- A square 100 sq ft: the 10×10 gable shed plan. Smaller: the 8×8 gable shed plan.
- Choosing a base first? Read the shed foundation guide.
- Every gable shed plan in one place.
- Pricing the build first? See the free lumber, sheet and hardware list for an 8×10 shed.
Shed building guides
- 16×16 Shed Material List: Lumber, Sheets and Hardware
- How to Insulate a Shed: Walls, Roof and Floor
- 10×18 Shed Material List: Lumber, Sheets and Hardware
- How to Build a Firewood Shed: 8 Steps and Lumber List
- 8×14 Shed Material List: Lumber, Sheets and Hardware
- What Size Shed Is 120 Square Feet? 10×12 and Other Sizes
Frequently asked questions
What is on the 8×10 shed material list?
Every material, hardware item and tool with its quantity, by build stage: 3 pressure-treated 4×4 skids, 9 joists and 2 rims, 3 floor sheets, 12 T1-11 sheets, 5 OSB sheets, 5 shingle bundles, 2×4 framing, 2 windows, 14 hurricane ties, nails and paint. A cut list and cutting plan come with it.
I bought an earlier 8×10 plan. What changed?
The door is now a 72 in wide double door, not a 60 in one or the 2017 roll-up. The shed has two 24 x 36 in windows in the side walls, 12 in eaves, two gable vents and two under-eave vents. It also adds a detachable ramp, a pad frame and four ground anchors.
Is the 8×10 shed 8 ft or 10 ft wide?
In this 3DSHEDPLANS plan the front wall with the door is 10 ft wide and the shed is 8 ft deep, 80 sq ft of floor. The ridge runs side to side, parallel to the front wall, and the two windows are in the 8 ft side walls.
Will a riding mower fit through the 8×10 shed door?
The door opening is 72 in wide. The plan's drawing parks a 42 in deck mower nose in, with 8 1/8 in to spare on each side of the open leaves. A 48 in deck fits with its deflector raised, and a 54 in deck does not. Measure yours.
How long does it take to build the 8×10 shed?
The plan estimates about 48 hours for two people, plus the ramp: 4 for the site and foundation, 5 for the floor, 12 for the walls, 8 for the roof framing, 10 for sheathing and shingles and 9 for the door, windows, trim and paint.
More about the 8×10 gable shed plan
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Shed Plan Includes:
A Full-Fledge Material List with Required Quantity
The materials you use to build a shed are the secrets to your success. Unfortunately, most plans out there won’t precisely tell you what to buy and in what quantity. In fact, they would lure you to buy products from the plan-sellers. Luckily, we have a completely different motto. We want you to succeed in building your dream shed. And for that, we understand how important it is to get the right materials.
Our 8×10 Gable Storage Shed Plan comes with an all-inclusive list of materials, hardware and tools that you would need to build the shed. Nothing more, nothing less! No click baits! You get a printable list of materials that you can take to the hardware store.
Shed Plan Includes:
Simple, Easy to Understand Step by Step Instructions
Who would have ever thought to get their hands on a shed plan that would take them through the entire process with such ease! The 8×10 Gable Storage Shed Plan comes with easy to understand, step by step instructions for DIY newbies. Don’t worry if you don’t have any experience in building wooden structures. The plan takes you through it in plain words, without jargon. Right from building the foundation to the walls and even the roofing, we have everything covered for you.
Shed Plan Includes:
3D Rendered Images for Reality Check
2D images are a thing of the past! Our 8×10 Gable Storage Shed Plan comes with 3D rendered images, which means you get to see every corner, every angle and every inch clearly as if it is being right in front of you by a professional. You won’t have to scratch your head thinking how the shed should from the front, back or the sides. Even the rooftops are visualized in 3D for better understanding.
Building Your Own Shed vs. Getting Professional Help
1st Reason
You Save What a Builder Would Charge
Probably the most important reason for building your own shed is that you save money. A builder charges for labor on top of the materials, for work you can do yourself. With our 8×10 Gable Storage Shed Plan, you get clear instructions, material lists and diagrams to go through the process easily.
2nd Reason
Choose Your Own Design and Make Your Dream Come True
Don’t fall for the marketing gimmicks of most professionals out there. When you start building your own shed, the world is out there for you to explore. With our material list and instructions, you will realize that you can build your dream shed without any design restrictions. The plan is simple yet it gives you the liberty to add in your own flavor!
3rd Reason
You Will Reclaim Your House Again
The 8×10 Gable Storage Shed has 80 sq ft of floor for your storage. Whether you garden or play sports, you can use the shed to keep all sorts of your equipment and tools. Besides, the shed will add an exquisiteness to your garden while fulfilling its purpose.
All the Other Reasons
This Is Exactly What You’ll Get with Your 8×10 Gable Storage Shed Plan!
19 step-by-step sections that guide you through the whole process.
Designed for beginners as well as for professionals.
Explanatory 3D images so you can see exactly what to do next.
Comprehensive materials list that gives you exactly what you need.
Your plan will look great on any mobile device.
PRO-TIPS throughout the build.
High quality PDF plan with everything you need emailed to you instantly.
How to Build a 8×10 Gable Shed: The Steps at a Glance
This is a short overview of how the 8×10 gable shed goes together. The full plan PDF has 19 step-by-step sections on 37 pages, with the cut length and count of every part, a shopping list with quantities and drawings for the steps.
Step # 1: Check the Rules Where You Live
Rules for sheds, such as size limits, setbacks and permits, vary by town and HOA. Check your local permit office before you build.
Step # 2: Know the Size of Your 8×10 Shed
The shed is 10 ft wide and 8 ft deep (80 sq ft of floor). The walls are 94 1/2″ tall including the plates, with a 6/12 roof. The roof peaks about 10′ 11 3/8″ above the ground. It has a double door in the front wall and 1 window (36″ by 36″ rough opening). The plan estimates about 48 hours of work for two people.
Step # 3: Get the Tools and Materials
You need basic carpentry tools: a circular saw, a speed square, a drill/driver, a framing hammer or nailer, a 4 ft level and a tape measure. The main materials are pressure-treated 4×4 skids and 2×6 floor joists, 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood, 2×4 studs, 5/8 in T1-11 siding, 2×4 rafters, 7/16 in OSB, roofing felt, drip edge and asphalt shingles. The plan’s shopping list gives the quantity of each.
Step # 4: Build the Foundation and Floor
Lay a compacted gravel pad and set the pressure-treated 4×4 skids level in both directions. Build the floor frame from pressure-treated 2×6 joists 16 in on center, square it by measuring the diagonals, fix it to the skids, then glue and screw the 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood on top.
Important Tips:
- Build the foundation where the shed will stand. Moving a finished shed is hard work.
- Clear plants and loose soil so the pad sits on flat, firm ground.
- Crown every skid up. The floor weight will flatten it.
Step # 5: Frame and Raise the Walls
- Frame each wall flat on the floor with 2×4 studs 16 in on center, with headers over the door and window openings.
- The door rough opening is 5′ 0″ wide by 6′ 4 1/2″ tall.
- Raise each wall with a helper, check it plumb with a level, brace it and nail the corners together.
- Cover the walls with 5/8 in T1-11 siding. The plan gives the size of every sheet.
Step # 6: Frame the Roof
- Set the 2×6 ridge board at the height shown in the plan.
- Cut the 2×4 rafters from the pattern rafter and set them 16 in on center, in pairs across the ridge.
- Nail the collar ties across the rafter pairs the plan marks.
- Frame the gable ends. The eaves overhang 8″ past the walls and the rakes 4″.
Step # 7: Sheathe and Shingle the Roof
- Nail 7/16 in OSB over the rafters.
- Add roofing felt and drip edge, then the asphalt shingles. Follow the shingle maker’s instructions.
Step # 8: Door, Window and Trim
- Build the door from the plan and hang it.
- Set the window in its framed opening by the maker’s instructions.
- Add the fascia, soffit and corner trim.
Step # 9: Finishing Touches
- Paint or stain all exposed wood to protect it from the weather.
- Add shelves and hooks to suit what you store.
Want every measurement? The full 8×10 Gable Storage Shed Plan PDF has the shopping list, the cut list and 19 step-by-step sections with drawings.
Ready to build the 8×10 gable shed?
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