A 4×6 lean-to shed material list on skids comes to 32 framing 2x4s, 7 pressure-treated 2x6s, 1 pressure-treated 4×4 board for the two skids and 3 pressure-treated 4x6s for the pad frame. Sheets: 1 floor plywood, 2 OSB and 7 T1-11, plus 2 shingle bundles. That assumes a 3/12 roof and a 48 in door.
Every row below is taken line for line from the shopping list and cut list of the 3DSHEDPLANS 4×6 lean-to plan. The list is for a freestanding 4×6 shed. For one built onto a house wall, read building a lean-to shed against a house first.
What this 4×6 lean-to list assumes
The shed is 6 ft wide and 4 ft deep, 24 sq ft of floor. The roof slopes from front to back, so the front wall with the door is the tall one. These are its settings:
- Walls: the front (high) wall is 7′ 7 1/8″ tall and the back (low) wall 6′ 8″, both counting the plates. Front studs are 7′ 2 5/8″ and back studs 6′ 3 1/2″. The high roof edge stands 8′ 11 3/4″ above the ground.
- Roof: 3/12 pitch (about 14 degrees), 2×4 rafters with a birdsmouth on both walls, 10 in overhangs front and back, 4 in rakes on the sides.
- Spacing: studs, floor joists and rafters at 16 in on center.
- Base: a gravel pad in a pressure-treated 4×6 frame, two pressure-treated 4×4 skids, 2×6 joists and one sheet of 3/4 in exterior plywood cut to 6 ft.
- Openings: one 48 in single door in the front wall. There is no window, because the low back wall faces a fence or house wall.
- Ramp: a detachable pressure-treated ramp at the door, which is why the list has 2×10, 2×6 and 2×4 pressure-treated pieces for it.
The 4×6 lean-to shed material list: lumber and floor decking
Lumber sizes are nominal. A 2×4 measures about 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in and a 2×6 about 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in, as the American Wood Council explains. Plywood and OSB carry a grade stamp; the APA trademark guide shows how to read it.
| Item | Qty | For |
|---|---|---|
| 1×2 x 8 ft | 2 | Door stop (header), Door stop (latch side) |
| 1×4 x 8 ft | 5 | Corner trim (front corners, front face), Corner trim (front, side face, slope cut; short point 7′ 8 5/8″), Door casing (head, between the side casings) |
| 1×4 x 10 ft | 1 | Door Z brace (along either edge) |
| 1×4 x 12 ft | 1 | Door rail |
| 1×4 x 14 ft | 4 | Corner trim (back corners, back face), Corner trim (back, side face, slope cut; short point 6′ 9 1/4″), Door casing (sides), Door stile |
| 1×6 x 14 ft | 2 | Fascia (eave), Fascia (rake; both ends plumb and parallel: 5′ 11 5/8″ along either edge, length given tip to tip) |
| Pressure-treated 2×10 x 8 ft | 1 | Ramp stringer blank (two tapered stringers from each piece) |
| 2×4 x 8 ft | 21 | Back wall cap plate, Front wall cap plate, Front wall stud, Left wall plate, Left wall stud, Right wall plate, Right wall stud, Side wall sloped top plate (left wall), Side wall sloped top plate (right wall) |
| 2×4 x 12 ft | 4 | Fly rafter (rake), Rafter |
| 2×4 x 14 ft | 7 | Back wall plate, Back wall stud, Front trimmer, Front wall plate |
| Pressure-treated 2×4 x 8 ft | 1 | Ramp ledger (on the rim joist and skid) |
| 2×6 x 10 ft | 1 | Front header (2×6 doubled + 1/2 ply) |
| Pressure-treated 2×6 x 8 ft | 3 | Floor joist |
| Pressure-treated 2×6 x 10 ft | 3 | Ramp deck board |
| Pressure-treated 2×6 x 14 ft | 1 | Rim joist (band) |
| Pressure-treated 4×4 x 14 ft | 1 | Skid |
| Floor decking (sheet 4×8 3/4 exterior plywood) | 1 |
The longest boards on the list are the two 16 ft pressure-treated 4x6s for the pad frame (further down). The longest framing and trim boards are 14 ft.
Shopping list: siding, roofing and sheets
| Item | Qty | For |
|---|---|---|
| Front header filler (one piece, ripped from the 1/2 in plywood: see the plywood rip map) (1/2 plywood strip 2×6 deep) | 1 | |
| Wall siding (front, high wall) (sheet 4×8 5/8 T1-11) | 2 | |
| Wall siding (back, low wall) (sheet 4×8 5/8 T1-11) | 2 | |
| Wall siding (sloped side walls) (sheet 4×8 5/8 T1-11) | 2 | |
| Front wall: 1/2 in plywood for the header fillers (sheet 1 of the plywood rip map; keep the rest of it for the soffit strips) (sheet 4×8 1/2 plywood) | 1 | |
| Door leaf siding (a new sheet; the cut-out is too short) (sheet 4×8 5/8 T1-11) | 1 | |
| Roof sheathing (sheet 4×8 7/16 OSB) | 2 | |
| Roofing felt (double layer below 4/12) (roll 15 lb (400 sq ft; this roof uses about 90 sq ft with the laps, keep the rest dry for repairs)) | 1 | |
| Asphalt shingles (bundle 3-tab, 26 shingles, incl. starter) | 2 | |
| Drip edge (10 ft piece) | 4 |
Shopping list: hardware, pad, finish and temporary parts
| Item | Qty | For |
|---|---|---|
| Door hinges (heavy T-strap, 12 in strap or longer, galvanized) (each) | 3 | |
| Door handle and latch (pull handle + gate latch or hasp with a padlock loop) (set) | 1 | |
| Carriage bolts 1/4 x 2 in, galvanized, with washers and nuts (3 per hinge strap) (each) | 9 | |
| Aluminum threshold cap (angle about 1 x 1 1/2 in), 4 ft piece (each) | 1 | |
| Door sweep, brush type, 48 in, with its screws (cut to 3′ 10 15/16″) (each) | 1 | |
| Door hold-open hook and eye, 6 in galvanized (eye shank 2 1/2 in or longer) (each) | 1 | |
| Framing nails 3 1/2 in (16d) hot-dip galvanized (about 442 nails + 10 %) (lb) | 13 | |
| Siding nails 2 1/2 in (8d) hot-dip galvanized (lb) | 7 | |
| Sheathing nails 2 1/2 in (8d) for OSB (lb) | 5 | |
| Roofing nails 1 1/4 in galvanized (lb) | 2 | |
| Deck screws 2 in (or 6d ring-shank nails) (lb) | 3 | |
| Construction adhesive, 10 oz tubes (each) | 3 | |
| Hurricane ties (rafter to plate), H2.5A type or equal, 10 nails each (each) | 8 | |
| Framing angles for the end rafters at the 4 corners (A35 type or equal, 12 nails each) (each) | 4 | |
| Framing angles for the floor frame on the skids, one at every joist-to-skid crossing (A34 type, about 2 1/2 in long, 18 ga galvanized, or equal), 8 connector nails each (each) | 12 | |
| Twist strap ties for the lean-to wall corners: 18 ga galvanized, about 1 1/4 in wide x 12 in long, twisted 90 deg in the middle (a Simpson LTS12 or equal) (each) | 4 | |
| Ground anchors, screw-in auger type, 30 in or longer, galvanized, each with a galvanized steel strap (an empty shed on skids slides in a strong gust: Anchor the shed) (each) | 4 | |
| Structural wood screws 1 1/2 in, exterior (anchor straps: 4 into the skid and 2 into the rim per anchor) (each) | 24 | |
| Crushed stone 3/4 in for the pad (loose, before tamping) (cu yd) | 1.2 | |
| Pressure-treated 4×6 x 10 ft, ground contact (UC4A or higher), for the gravel pad frame (each) | 1 | |
| Pressure-treated 4×6 x 16 ft, ground contact (UC4A or higher), for the gravel pad frame (each) | 2 | |
| Rebar stakes 1/2 in (#4) x 24 in, for the pad frame (each) | 18 | |
| Galvanized timber spikes 3/8 in x 10 in for the pad frame corners (2 per corner) (each) | 16 | |
| Exterior paint and primer in one (2 coats, about 248 sq ft each) (gallon) | 2 | |
| Exterior caulk (tube) | 3 | |
| Roofing cap nails 1 in (felt) (lb) | 1 | |
| Wood shims (door) (bundle) | 1 | |
| Roofing cement, 10 oz tubes (each) | 2 | |
| Exterior screws 1 1/4 in (door frame to T1-11) (lb) | 1 | |
| Exterior screws 3 in (hinge T-parts through the casing into the framing; wall corners where a hammer will not swing) (box) | 1 | |
| Connector nails 1 1/2 in (hurricane ties and straps) (lb) | 3 | |
| Drip cap (Z-flashing) over the door head casing, 10 ft (each) | 1 | |
| Staples 3/8 in for the staple gun (insect screen) (box) | 1 | |
| Insect screen for vent holes/gaps, 2 ft x 25 ft (roll) | 1 | |
| Temporary braces 2×4 x 12 ft (reuse later): 2 plumb braces per wall section and the diagonal each section is squared with; each wall’s plumb braces come off once that wall is sided (each) | 12 | |
| 2×4 x 8 ft for 8 stakes 24 in, pointed (one per plumb brace) (each) | 3 | |
| 2×4 x 8 ft for 8 deck cleats 12 in (one per plumb brace once it moves inside) (each) | 2 | |
| Ramp hook-and-eye latches, 4 in galvanized (each) | 2 | |
| Ramp screws 3 in exterior deck screws (2 per board per stringer) (each) | 66 | |
| Structural screws 3 in, 1/4 in exterior (ramp ledger into the rim joist and the skid) (each) | 8 | |
| Anti-slip grit tape for the ramp boards, 2 in x 15 ft (one strip along each board) (roll) | 2 |
Pressure-treated lumber that touches the gravel or the ground (skids, pad frame, ramp) must be rated for ground contact (UC4A or higher).
Cut list: every part
Cut one of each angled part first, test it on your frame, then cut the rest. The side wall studs step up in length and the two side walls are not mirror images, so number each stud with its wall and position as you cut.
| Part | Lumber | Cut length | Qty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Skid | PT 4×4 | 6′ 0″ | 2 |
| Rim joist (band) | PT 2×6 | 6′ 0″ | 2 |
| Floor joist | PT 2×6 | 3′ 9″ | 6 |
| Front wall plate | 2×4 | 6′ 0″ | 2 |
| Front wall cap plate | 2×4 | 6′ 0″ | 1 |
| Front wall stud | 2×4 | 7′ 2 5/8″ | 7 |
| Front cripple | 2×4 | 4 5/8″ | 3 |
| Front header (2×6 doubled + 1/2 ply) | 2×6 | 4′ 3″ | 2 |
| Front trimmer | 2×4 | 6′ 4 1/2″ | 2 |
| Back wall plate | 2×4 | 6′ 0″ | 2 |
| Back wall cap plate | 2×4 | 6′ 0″ | 1 |
| Back wall stud | 2×4 | 6′ 3 1/2″ | 8 |
| Left wall plate | 2×4 | 3′ 4 3/4″ | 1 |
| Left wall stud | 2×4 | 6′ 5 3/8″ | 1 |
| Left wall stud | 2×4 | 6′ 8 1/4″ | 1 |
| Left wall stud | 2×4 | 7′ 0 1/4″ | 1 |
| Left wall stud | 2×4 | 7′ 3 3/16″ | 1 |
| Right wall plate | 2×4 | 3′ 4 3/4″ | 1 |
| Right wall stud | 2×4 | 7′ 3 3/16″ | 1 |
| Right wall stud | 2×4 | 7′ 0 1/4″ | 1 |
| Right wall stud | 2×4 | 6′ 8 1/4″ | 1 |
| Right wall stud | 2×4 | 6′ 5 3/8″ | 1 |
| Side wall sloped top plate (left wall) | 2×4 | 3′ 6″ | 1 |
| Side wall sloped top plate (right wall) | 2×4 | 3′ 6″ | 1 |
| Rafter | 2×4 | 5′ 10 15/16″ | 6 |
| Fly rafter (rake) | 2×4 | 5′ 10 15/16″ | 2 |
| Lookout block (rake overhang) | 2×4 | 2 1/2″ | 8 |
| Blocking between rafters (over each wall) | 2×4 | 5 3/4″ | 2 |
| Blocking between rafters (over each wall) | 2×4 | 1′ 1 3/4″ | 2 |
| Blocking between rafters (over each wall) | 2×4 | 1′ 2 1/2″ | 6 |
| Fascia (eave) | 1×6 | 6′ 8″ | 2 |
| Fascia (rake; both ends plumb and parallel: 5′ 11 5/8″ along either edge, length given tip to tip) | 1×6 | 6′ 1″ | 2 |
| Corner trim (front corners, front face) | 1×4 | 7′ 9″ | 2 |
| Corner trim (front, side face, slope cut; short point 7′ 8 5/8″) | 1×4 | 7′ 9 1/2″ | 2 |
| Corner trim (back corners, back face) | 1×4 | 6′ 8 1/2″ | 2 |
| Corner trim (back, side face, slope cut; short point 6′ 9 1/4″) | 1×4 | 6′ 10 1/8″ | 2 |
| Door casing (sides) | 1×4 | 6′ 9 1/2″ | 2 |
| Door casing (head, between the side casings) | 1×4 | 4′ 0″ | 1 |
| Door stile | 1×4 | 6′ 5 1/4″ | 2 |
| Door rail | 1×4 | 3′ 4 1/2″ | 3 |
| Door Z brace (along either edge) | 1×4 | 4′ 0 5/8″ | 2 |
| Door stop (header) | 1×2 | 4′ 0″ | 1 |
| Door stop (latch side) | 1×2 | 6′ 5 1/4″ | 1 |
| Ramp stringer blank (two tapered stringers from each piece) | PT 2×10 | 2′ 4″ | 3 |
| Ramp deck board | PT 2×6 | 4′ 9″ | 5 |
| Ramp ledger (on the rim joist and skid) | PT 2×4 | 4′ 9″ | 1 |
Rafters. The 5′ 10 15/16″ figure is the board each rafter needs, and two come from each 12 ft 2×4. Each rafter gets two birdsmouths, one on each wall, so cut one pattern rafter, test it on both walls, then trace the others. The 2 fly rafters get no birdsmouth: the 2 1/2″ lookout blocks hold each one out from its end rafter.
Side wall studs. Each side wall has 4 studs under a sloped top plate. The longest is 7′ 3 3/16″, which fits in an 8 ft board.
Headers. The 4 ft door opening gets a doubled 2×6 header with a 1/2 in plywood filler, 4′ 3″ long, on 6′ 4 1/2″ trimmers, with three 4 5/8″ cripples above it.
Where the waste goes
Buying by stock length means every cut leaves an offcut, so it helps to know where the scraps come from.
- Floor joists: two 3′ 9″ joists from each 8 ft board leave 6″.
- Rafters: two 5′ 10 15/16″ boards from each 12 ft 2×4 leave about 2 in.
- Rims and skids: two 6 ft pieces from each 14 ft board leave 2 ft, which is handy for scabs and shims.
- Lookout blocks: the eight 2 1/2″ blocks come from offcuts, so no board is bought for them.
- No spares: the counts include nothing for rejects. Pick straight stock at the yard, and add a 2×4 or two if you expect to cull warped boards.
Common mistakes
- Cutting both side walls from one list. The left and right walls use different stud lengths. Cut and number the studs wall by wall.
- Grabbing 8 ft boards for the rafters. Each rafter needs 5′ 10 15/16″, so a 12 ft board makes two; an 8 ft board makes only one.
- Skipping the new door siding sheet. The siding cut out of the opening is too short for the door leaf, so the list has a new T1-11 sheet for it.
- Single felt at 3/12. The list doubles the felt below 4/12. Follow the low-slope instructions on the shingle wrapper, and check your local permit office for the underlayment rule in your area.
- Setting the low wall tight to a fence. All the roof water comes off the back edge, and you still need room to nail and paint the back siding. Leave a few feet of clear ground behind the shed.
- Forgetting the floor angles. The plan puts a framing angle at every joist-to-skid crossing, 12 in all. They are on the hardware list, not the lumber list.
- Untreated wood near the ground. Plain framing lumber under the floor rots; keep skids, rims and joists pressure treated. The USDA Wood Handbook explains why wet, untreated wood decays. Use hot-dip galvanized nails and screws rated for treated lumber.
Tools you need
Plan on a circular saw with a rip guide, speed square, tape, chalk line, 4 ft level, framing hammer or nailer, drill driver, two 6 ft step ladders, a 16 ft extension ladder for the roof, safety glasses and a utility knife for felt and shingles. Have two helpers for raising the tall front wall, which weighs about 120 lb as a bare frame.
Setbacks, tie-downs and whether a 24 sq ft shed needs a permit vary by town, so check your local permit office before you order. For the build steps, see how to build a lean-to shed, and for the base under the skids, shed foundation options. To turn the list into a budget, see how much it costs to build a shed. For other sizes, the shed material calculator is a good start, and the 6×6 lean-to material list shows the next size up in depth.
Get the full plan
The 4×6 lean-to shed plan is a 3DSHEDPLANS PDF with 66 pages, 28 sections, 3D images and its own printable material list. Download the free 4×6 lean-to preview PDF to see the format before you buy.
If 24 sq ft is too tight, the 4×8 lean-to shed plan keeps the 4 ft depth with an 8 ft front, and the 6×6 lean-to shed plan lets you step inside. For a peaked roof, look at the 8×8 gable shed plan, or compare every size on the lean-to shed plans and shed plans pages.
Frequently asked questions
How many 2x4s do I need for a 4×6 lean-to shed?
32 framing 2x4s: 21 at 8 ft, 4 at 12 ft and 7 at 14 ft. Add 12 2×4 x 12 ft temporary braces you reuse later, 5 more 8 ft 2x4s for brace stakes and deck cleats, and 1 pressure-treated 2×4 for the ramp ledger.
What size rafters does a 4×6 lean-to shed need?
2×4 rafters at 16 in on center, 6 of them plus 2 fly rafters, each cut to 5' 10 15/16". Two come from each 12 ft board, so you buy 4. The plan sizes them for a 3 ft 5 in clear span at about 30 psf ground snow. Check your local permit office.
How many sheets of plywood, OSB and T1-11 for a 4×6 lean-to shed?
1 sheet of 3/4 in exterior plywood for the floor, 2 sheets of 7/16 in OSB for the roof, 7 sheets of 5/8 in T1-11 (six for the walls and one for the door) and 1 sheet of 1/2 in plywood for the header filler and soffit strips.
How many bundles of shingles does a 4×6 lean-to roof take?
2 bundles of 3-tab shingles, including the starter course, for a 3/12 roof with 10 in eaves and 4 in rakes. The list doubles the felt below 4/12, and one 400 sq ft roll of 15 lb felt covers it; follow the low-slope rules on the shingle wrapper.
Are free 4×6 shed plans with a material list available?
This page is a free material list for the 4×6 lean-to. The free 4×6 lean-to preview PDF shows the 3DSHEDPLANS plan format, and the paid 66-page plan PDF has the same printable material list with a 48 in door and no window.
Shed building guides
- 4×12 Firewood Shed Material List: Lumber, Slats, Hardware
- 8×8 Chicken Coop Material List: Lumber, Sheets, Hardware
- 4×8 Shed Material List: Lumber, Sheets, Hardware
- 16×20 Lean-To Shed Material List: Lumber, Sheets, Hardware
- 16×16 Shed Material List: Lumber, Sheets and Hardware
- How to Insulate a Shed: Walls, Roof and Floor




