10x18 Shed Material List: Lumber, Sheets and Hardware

Last updated October 22, 2026

A 10×18 shed material list for a gable shed on skids comes to 139 2x4s (120 for framing), 20 treated 2x6s, 7 treated 4x4s, 7 sheets of 3/4 in plywood, 10 of OSB, 20 of T1-11 and 10 shingle bundles. It assumes 94 1/2 in walls, a 6/12 roof and 16 in spacing.

Every quantity and cut length on this page comes from the 3DSHEDPLANS plan generator, which builds this exact shed board by board and counts the stock. It checks spans, notches, splices, sheet coverage and wall weights on every build, and this 10×18 build passed all 93 checks. The list is for one 60 in double door and one 36 x 36 in window.

What this 10×18 shed material list assumes

The generator ran a shed 10 ft deep and 18 ft wide, with 180 sq ft of floor and the ridge running the 18 ft way. These are its settings:

• Walls: 94 1/2 in tall including the bottom plate and double top plate, so wall studs are cut to 90 in (7′ 6″).
• Spacing: studs, floor joists and rafters all at 16 in on center.
• Roof: 6/12 pitch, 2×4 rafters, a 2×6 ridge board, 8 in eave overhang and 4 in rake overhang. The roof works out to about 234 sq ft.
• Floor: four pressure-treated 4×4 skids 18 ft long, about 39 in apart (38.8 in), on a crushed stone pad 20 x 12 ft and 4 in deep (12 in wider than the shed on every side), with 2×6 joists cut to 9′ 9″ at 16 in on center and 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood.
• Loads: the 2×4 rafters pass a span table check at 30 psf ground snow (SPF #2 at 16 in, 60 in run). That is the generator’s design assumption; if your area’s snow load may be higher, check your local permit office before you buy rafter stock.
• Openings: a 60 in wide double door on 76 1/2 in trimmers in the 18 ft front wall, and one 36 x 36 in window in the right 10 ft gable wall. The back wall and the left gable wall have no openings.

If you build one of our neighboring plans instead, such as the 10×16 gable shed plan or the 10×20 gable shed plan, shop from that plan’s own printable list.

Shopping list by stage

Lumber sizes are nominal. A 2×4 measures about 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in, as the American Wood Council explains. Check the grade stamp on plywood and OSB; the APA trademark guide shows how to read it.

Totals at a glance

Material	Total
2×4 boards, all lengths (framing, seam blocks, stakes, cleats, braces, ridge post)	139
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 10 ft (16 joists, 4 for the two rims)	20
Pressure-treated 4×4 (two 8 ft, four 12 ft, one 14 ft for four 18 ft skids)	7
Pressure-treated 2×4 x 14 ft (skid splice scabs)	2
2×6 (ridge and window header)	3
2×8 (door header)	1
3/4 in T&G plywood sheets (floor)	7
7/16 in OSB sheets (roof)	10
5/8 in T1-11 sheets (walls, gables, door leaves)	20
1/2 in plywood sheets (soffit, header fillers)	2
3-tab shingle bundles	10

The counts include no spares for rejects. Pick straight stock at the yard, and add a few 2×4 x 8 ft if you expect to cull warped or split boards.

Floor

Item	Qty	Used for
Pressure-treated 4×4 x 8 ft, 12 ft and 14 ft, tagged for ground contact	2 + 4 + 1	Four 18′ 0″ skids, two pieces each
Pressure-treated 2×4 x 14 ft	2	Eight 3′ 0″ splice scabs, one on each side of each skid joint
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 10 ft	16	Floor joists cut to 9′ 9″, including a second joist at the rim joint
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 10 ft	4	Two 18′ 0″ rim joists, cut 9′ 3 1/4″ and 8′ 8 3/4″
3/4 in T&G plywood, 4×8 sheet	7	Floor decking (180 sq ft)
2×4 x 8 ft	3	Flat blocks under the decking seams
Crushed stone 3/4 in, loose	3.6 cu yd	Gravel pad, measured loose before tamping
Deck screws 2 in (or 6d ring-shank nails), rated for treated lumber	5 lb	Decking

Walls and roof framing

Item	Qty	Used for
2×4 x 8 ft	73	49 wall studs, cripples, window sill, short plate pieces, collar ties, gable studs, vent blocks, lookout and frieze blocks
2×4 x 10 ft	8	Back wall plate pieces, side wall plates and cap plates
2×4 x 12 ft	17	13 rafter ties, front plate and cap plate pieces, back cap plate piece
2×4 x 14 ft	22	30 rafters and 4 fly rafters (two per board), front plate piece, frieze blocks, door and window trimmers
2×6 x 8 ft	1	Window header
2×6 x 10 ft	2	Ridge board (18′ 8″, spliced)
2×8 x 12 ft	1	Door header
Hurricane ties, H2.5A type or equal	30	Rafter to plate
Temporary braces 2×4 x 12 ft	12	Wall bracing, reused later
Temporary post 2×4 x 12 ft	1	Under the ridge joint until that rafter pair is set
2×4 x 8 ft	3	8 pointed brace stakes (2 boards) and 8 deck cleats (1 board)

The two header filler strips of 1/2 in plywood are ripped from a soffit sheet, so buy the soffit plywood with the wall lumber.

Roof covering

Item	Qty	Used for
7/16 in OSB, 4×8 sheet	10	Roof sheathing
15 lb felt, 400 sq ft roll	1	Underlayment
3-tab shingles, 26 per bundle	10 bundles	Roof, starter course and ridge cap
Drip edge, 10 ft	7	Eaves and rakes
Roofing nails 1 1/4 in galvanized	8 lb	Shingles
Roofing cap nails 1 in	2 lb	Felt
Roofing cement, 10 oz tube	2	Roofing
Louvered gable vent, 8 x 12 in	2	One in each gable
Insect screen, 2 ft x 25 ft	1 roll	Vent holes and gaps at the eaves

Siding and trim

Item	Qty	Used for
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet	16	Walls (448 sq ft, before the door and window cut-outs)
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet	2	Both gable triangles
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet	2	Door leaves (one per leaf)
1/2 in plywood, 4×8 sheet	2	Eave soffit and header fillers
Z-flashing, 10 ft	2	Wall siding to gable siding joint
Drip cap, 10 ft	1	Over the door and window head casings
1×6 x 10 ft	4	Eave fascia (two 18′ 8″ runs, spliced)
1×6 x 14 ft	2	Rake fascia (two pieces per board)
1×4 x 16 ft	2	Corner trim on the eave walls
1×4 x 14 ft	4	Door casing sides, door stiles, Z braces
1×4 x 12 ft	1	Door rails
1×4 x 8 ft	7	Gable-wall corner trim, door head casing, window casings
1×2 x 8 ft	2	Door stop and astragal
Exterior paint and primer in one	5 gal	Two coats over about 636 sq ft
Exterior caulk	3 tubes	Trim

Hardware and window

Item	Qty
Framing nails 3 1/2 in (16d), hot-dip galvanized	39 lb
Siding nails 2 1/2 in (8d), hot-dip galvanized	15 lb
Sheathing nails 2 1/2 in (8d) for OSB	8 lb
Connector nails 1 1/2 in for the ties	3 lb
Construction adhesive, 10 oz tube	9
T-strap door hinges	6
Door handle and latch set	1
Barrel bolts for the fixed leaf	2
Exterior screws 1 1/4 in (door frame to T1-11)	1 lb
Exterior screws 2 1/2 in (hinge straps into framing)	1 box
Prefabricated window, 36 x 36 in rough opening	1
Flashing tape 4 in	1 roll
Wood shims	1 bundle

Cut list highlights

Most of the 10×18 cut list is square cuts: 49 wall studs at 7′ 6″ and 16 floor joists at 9′ 9″. The table holds the parts that need angles, splices or a tape for each piece.

Part	Lumber	Cut length	Qty
Rafter	2×4	6′ 5″	30
Fly rafter (rake)	2×4	6′ 5″	4
Ridge board (spliced)	2×6	18′ 8″	1
Rafter tie (interior pairs, at the plates)	2×4	10′ 0″	13
Collar tie	2×4	3′ 8 9/16″	7
Lookout block (rake overhang)	2×4	2 1/2″	16
Frieze block (over the eave walls, top beveled)	2×4	4 1/4″ to 1′ 1 3/4″	28
Skid (spliced)	PT 4×4	18′ 0″	4
Rim joist (spliced)	PT 2×6	18′ 0″	2
Front and back wall plate (spliced)	2×4	18′ 0″	4
Front and back cap plate (spliced)	2×4	17′ 5″	2
Door header (2×8 doubled + 1/2 ply)	2×8	5′ 3″	2
Door trimmer	2×4	6′ 4 1/2″	2
Window header (2×6 doubled + 1/2 ply)	2×6	3′ 3″	2
Window trimmer	2×4	6′ 1″	2
Center gable stud (under the ridge)	2×4	2′ 2 3/4″	2
Gable end studs	2×4	3 1/8″ to 2′ 3 1/8″ in seven lengths	2 each

Rafters. Each rafter needs a 6′ 5″ board with 26.6 degree plumb cuts at the ridge and the tail, which includes the 8 in eave overhang. The list buys 14 ft 2x4s and cuts two rafters from each, which leaves about 14 in per board. An 8 ft board holds only one rafter and wastes about 19 in, so you would need 34 boards instead of 17.

Mark the plumb cuts with a speed square pivoted to 6 on the common scale. The birdsmouth seat is 2 1/2 in, which makes the notch about 1 1/8 in deep. The generator keeps the notch to a third of the rafter’s depth or less, so do not cut it any deeper. Cut one pattern rafter, test it at both ends and the middle of the shed, then trace the other 29.

The 4 fly rafters hang off the 2 1/2 in lookout blocks and the ridge extension, not a wall, so they get the plumb cuts but no birdsmouth.

Ridge. The ridge is 18′ 8″, not 18′ 0″, because it runs 4 in past each gable wall to carry the fly rafters. It is cut 9′ 8″ and 9′ 0″ from two 10 ft 2x6s, with the joint centered on the rafter pair 9′ 4″ from the left corner so both ends are nailed through rafters. Hold it on the temporary 2×4 post, cut 10′ 1 1/4″ from the deck to the underside of the ridge, until that pair is set.

The 18 ft runs. The skids, rim joists, wall plates, cap plates, ridge and eave fascia are all longer than 16 ft, so each is two boards with a planned joint. Neighboring skid joints sit 4 ft apart, each under a floor joist and scabbed on both sides. Each rim breaks on the seam of a layout joist and the extra joist on the list, so both rim ends nail into a full joist.

Member	Pieces, from the left end	Joint lands on	Stock
Skids 1 and 3 (counted from the front)	10′ 8″ + 7′ 4″	A floor joist	12 ft + 8 ft 4×4
Skids 2 and 4	6′ 8″ + 11′ 4″	A floor joist	14 ft (both short pieces) + 12 ft 4×4
Rim joists	9′ 3 1/4″ + 8′ 8 3/4″	A doubled joist	Two 10 ft 2×6
Front bottom and top plates	6′ 3 3/4″ + 11′ 8 1/4″	A stud	14 ft (both short pieces) + 12 ft
Front cap plate	11′ 4 3/4″ + 6′ 0 1/4″	A stud, 5′ 4 1/2″ from the plate joint	12 ft + 8 ft
Back bottom and top plates	8′ 0″ + 10′ 0″	A stud	Full 8 ft + full 10 ft
Back cap plate	11′ 8 1/2″ + 5′ 8 1/2″	A stud, 4′ 0″ from the plate joint	12 ft + 8 ft
Ridge board and eave fascia	9′ 8″ + 9′ 0″	The rafter pair at 9′ 4″	Two 10 ft boards

Spliced skids work on a level, compacted pad but are weak for dragging, so do not plan to skid this shed to a new spot later. The splices come from the generator’s rule of no board over 16 ft, the longest length most home centers stock. If your yard sells 18 ft treated 4×4 and 2×6, one board per skid and rim removes those joints; recount the stock before you order.

Wall plates. Mark the bottom and top plate of each wall together so their joints match. The cap plate joints sit on studs and lap the plate joints below by 4 ft or more. The side walls get 9′ 4 7/8″ plates, 1/8 in short of the gap so they drop in between the eave walls, and full 10 ft cap plates that lap the corners.

Headers. The 60 in door opening gets a doubled 2×8 header with a 1/2 in plywood filler, on trimmers cut to 6′ 4 1/2″, with four 6 1/4″ cripples above it. The bottom plate is cut out of the doorway after the wall is up, so the door leaves swing over the floor. The window gets a doubled 2×6 header on 6′ 1″ trimmers, two 11 1/2″ cripples above, a 3′ 0″ sill and two 2′ 11 1/2″ cripples below.

Gable studs. Each 10 ft gable has one 2′ 2 3/4″ center stud plus seven end studs, one each of 3 1/8″, 7 1/8″, 11 1/8″, 1′ 3 1/8″, 1′ 7 1/8″, 1′ 11 1/8″ and 2′ 3 1/8″. They are laid out 16 in on center from one corner so the T1-11 joints land on them. That means the two halves of a gable are not mirror images, so label each stud and measure it off your actual end rafter before cutting. Four 10 1/2″ flat blocks frame the two gable vents.

Gable vs lean-to: what changes

We ran the same 10×18 footprint as a lean-to (single-slope) roof at 3/12, with an 80 in low back wall, the door in the high front wall and the window in the back wall. The skids, joists and decking stay the same; the studs, rafters and siding change.

Item	Gable (6/12)	Lean-to (3/12)
Rafters	30 2×4 at 6′ 5″ + 4 fly	15 2×6 at 11′ 9 1/2″ + 2 fly
Ridge board	2×6, 18′ 8″ from two 10 ft boards	None
Wall studs	7′ 6″ on all four walls	8′ 8 5/8″ front, 6′ 3 1/2″ back, stepped on the sides
2×4 framing boards bought	120	63
2×4 seam blocks, stakes, cleats, braces (and ridge post, gable only)	19	23
2×6 boards bought (not treated)	3	24
T1-11 sheets	20, all 4×8	18: seven 4×10, two 4×9, nine 4×8
Roof OSB sheets	10	8
Shingle bundles	10	8
Felt	1 roll	2 rolls, laid double below 4/12
Fascia	1×6	1×8
Extra hardware	2 Z-flashing, 2 gable vents	4 twist straps at the wall corners
Framing nails (16d)	39 lb	28 lb
Floor	4 skids, 16 joists, 7 sheets	4 skids, 16 joists, 7 sheets

On a 10 ft deep shed the lean-to rafters are 2×6: the generator checks a 113 in span against a 143 in limit for 2×6 at 30 psf. That is why the lean-to buys 24 plain 2x6s (15 rafters and 2 fly rafters from 12 ft stock, plus blocking and a header) but far fewer 2x4s. Each side wall has 9 studs stepping from 6′ 5 3/8″ to 8′ 9 1/4″ under a 9′ 8 3/8″ sloped top plate.

Each lean-to rafter is 11′ 9 1/2″ from a 12 ft board, which leaves only about 2 1/2 in, so check the board ends before you mark it. The high wall takes 4×10 siding sheets, which some yards have to order. At 3/12, read the minimum slope on the shingle wrapper and follow the maker’s low-slope instructions. For single-slope layouts, see the 10×16 lean-to shed plan, the 12×18 lean-to shed plan, all lean-to shed plans and our gable vs lean-to vs hip roof comparison.

Where the waste goes

• Wall studs: 90 in from a 96 in board leaves about 6 in each.
• Rafters: two 6′ 5″ rafters from a 14 ft board leave about 14 in. Cut the 2 1/2 in lookout blocks and short gable studs from those ends if you want, but the list already buys boards for them.
• Floor joists: 9′ 9″ from a 10 ft board leaves 3 in for squaring the ends.
• Rafter ties: the thirteen 10′ 0″ ties come from 12 ft boards, leaving about 2 ft each.
• Collar ties: the 7 ties at 3′ 8 9/16″ use 4 boards, two per board with about 6 in left, and the fourth board’s leftover of about 4 ft is handy for blocking.
• Skids: the 10′ 8″ and 11′ 4″ pieces come from 12 ft boards, leaving about 16 in and 8 in. The two 7′ 4″ pieces come from 8 ft boards (about 8 in left each), and both 6′ 8″ pieces share the 14 ft board (about 7 1/2 in left).
• Rims, ridge and eave fascia: all cut from 10 ft stock. The rim pieces leave about 8 3/4 in and 15 1/4 in, the ridge and fascia pieces about 4 in and 12 in.
• Plates: the back bottom and top plates use full 8 ft and 10 ft boards with factory ends and no offcut. The two long front plate pieces come from 12 ft boards (about 3 3/4 in left each) and the two short ones share a 14 ft board (about 16 in left). The front cap pieces about 7 1/4 in and 23 3/4 in, and the back cap pieces about 3 1/2 in and 27 1/2 in.
• Side cap plates: each uses a full 10 ft board with no trim room, so check that the factory ends are square at the yard.
• Floor decking and wall siding: 7 floor sheets give 224 sq ft for a 180 sq ft floor (two full rows and one ripped 25 in row), and 16 wall sheets give 512 sq ft for 448 sq ft of wall. The leftover is in strips you cannot use for a full panel, so a damaged sheet still means a trip back to the yard.

For delivery or a trailer run, the longest boards are the two 16 ft corner trim boards for the eave walls. Everything else is 8, 10, 12 or 14 ft stock.

Tools for a 10×18 build

• Circular saw, speed square and framing square for 49 stud cuts and 34 rafters; cut the 2 1/2 in lookout blocks from a long clamped stick with a stop block, never as loose scraps
• Framing hammer or framing nailer, and a drill/driver for the screws
• 4 ft level, 25 ft tape for checking that the floor diagonals match, and a string line for the 18 ft rims and plates
• A 16 ft extension ladder, which reaches about 4 ft past the roof edge at a 4 to 1 setup
• A rented plate compactor for 3.6 cu yd of gravel, laid in thin layers
• A helper: the generator plans each wall as a bare frame raised by 2 people, and the heaviest, the 18 ft front wall, is about 240 lb. Add a third pair of hands if you can, to hold the braces while the wall goes plumb
• Roof brackets or a harness and anchor for working on the 6/12 roof while you shingle
• Safety glasses and hearing protection for the saw and nailer, and gloves for the treated lumber

Common mistakes

• Mixing up 10×18 and 18×10. In this list the ridge runs along the 18 ft side and the door sits in an 18 ft wall. If the ridge runs the 10 ft way, the roof spans 18 ft, each rafter’s run grows from about 60 in to about 108 in, and the ridge, gables and rafter sizes all change.
• Lining up the splices. Every 18 ft member here is two boards. If the skid, rim, plate and cap plate joints all fall at the same spot, the floor and walls get a hinge line. Keep them where the list puts them.
• Forgetting the door sheets. The siding cut out of the doorway is 76 1/2 in tall, shorter than the 77 1/4 in door leaf, so each leaf needs its own new T1-11 sheet.
• Skipping rafter ties. A ridge board is not a beam. The 13 rafter ties at the plates stop the 18 ft walls from spreading. The 7 collar ties hold the rafter pairs together near the ridge; they do not replace the rafter ties.
• Deep birdsmouths. A full 3 1/2 in seat would notch a 2×4 rafter past the generator’s one-third limit, so keep the seat at 2 1/2 in.
• Swapping materials without recounting. This list is for 3-tab shingles and T1-11. Architectural shingles, metal roofing or lap siding cover differently, so recount from the coverage printed on the bundle or the maker’s install guide.
• Nailing the siding skirt into thin air. On the eave walls the T1-11 laps the rim joist by about 2 7/16 in, enough to nail into it. On the gable walls the lap is only about 3/4 in, so nail the skirt into the rim only where it laps 1 1/2 in or more, and prime and paint the bottom edge of the sheets before they go up.
• Untreated wood near the ground. Skids, rims and joists are pressure treated; plain framing lumber there rots. Use ground-contact rated wood for the skids, and hot-dip galvanized nails and treated-lumber rated screws in treated wood. The USDA Wood Handbook covers why wet, untreated wood decays.

Not in this list: a ramp, a loft, shelving, ground anchors and paint color. Plan those separately, and recount if you change the wall height or the 16 in spacing.

Whether a 180 sq ft shed needs a permit, and what setbacks and tie-downs apply, varies by town, so check your local permit office before you order. Our shed permit checklist lists what to ask. Ground anchors or tie-downs are not counted in this list, so ask the same office what your area expects for a shed on skids.

For how to read any list like this one, see our shed material list guide. For other sizes, try the shed material calculator. For the base under the skids, see shed foundation options, and for a rough budget, see how much it costs to build a shed.

Get the full plan

3DSHEDPLANS has no 10×18 plan PDF yet. We sell the next sizes down and up: the 10×16 gable shed plan and the 10×20 gable shed plan are 3DSHEDPLANS PDFs with step-by-step 3D images and their own printable material lists. Compare their lists in the 10×16 shed material list and the 10×20 shed material list.

To see the plan format first, download the free 10×16 gable shed plan preview PDF or the free 10×20 gable shed plan preview PDF. You can also compare all gable shed plans or browse every size on the shed plans page.

Frequently asked questions

What is on a 10×18 shed material list?

For a 10×18 gable shed with 94 1/2 in walls and a 6/12 roof, our generator lists 139 2x4s, 20 treated 2x6s, 7 treated 4x4s, 7 sheets of 3/4 in plywood, 10 of OSB, 20 of T1-11, 2 of 1/2 in plywood and 10 shingle bundles, plus trim, nails and hardware.

How many 2x4s do I need for a 10×18 shed?

139 in all for a 10×18 gable shed with a 60 in double door and one window. That is 120 framing boards (73 at 8 ft, 8 at 10 ft, 17 at 12 ft, 22 at 14 ft), 6 boards (8 ft) for seam blocks, stakes and cleats, 12 temporary wall braces and 1 temporary ridge post.

How many sheets of plywood, OSB and siding does a 10×18 shed need?

7 sheets of 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood for the floor, 10 sheets of 7/16 in OSB for the roof, 20 sheets of 5/8 in T1-11 for the walls, gables and door leaves, and 2 sheets of 1/2 in plywood for the soffit and header fillers.

How many bundles of shingles for a 10×18 shed roof?

10 bundles of 3-tab shingles for the 6/12 gable roof, which works out to about 234 sq ft with an 8 in eave and 4 in rake overhang. The count includes the starter course, the ridge cap and about 10 percent extra.

Is there a 10×18 shed plan with a materials list?

This page is a free 10×18 materials list with cut lengths from the 3DSHEDPLANS generator. We do not sell a 10×18 plan PDF today; the nearest plans are the 10×16 and 10×20 gable sheds, each with its own printable list and a free preview PDF.