8x14 Shed Material List: Lumber, Sheets and Hardware

Last updated October 20, 2026

This 8×14 shed material list is for a gable shed on skids with a 60 in double door. It takes 91 framing 2x4s, 15 sheets of T1-11, 6 of OSB, 4 of 3/4 in floor plywood and 6 shingle bundles, with walls 94 1/2 in tall, a 6/12 roof and 16 in spacing.

Every quantity and cut length here comes from a 3D model of this exact 8×14 build made with the 3DSHEDPLANS plan generator, which checks rafter span, header depth, sheet coverage and wall weights. It is a shopping aid, not a stamped engineering drawing.

This free list is not the list in our paid 8×14 plan. The plan PDF uses a 30 in single door, a side-wall window and site-built trusses; this list uses a 60 in double door, a back-wall window and rafters on a ridge board.

What this 8×14 shed material list assumes

The generator ran a shed 8 ft deep and 14 ft wide, 112 sq ft of floor. The ridge runs the 14 ft length, the rafters span the 8 ft depth, and the door sits in the 14 ft front wall. These are its settings:

• Walls: 94 1/2 in tall including the bottom plate and double top plate, so wall studs are cut to 90 in (7′ 6″).
• Spacing: studs, floor joists and rafters all at 16 in on center.
• Roof: 6/12 pitch, 2×4 rafters, a 2×6 ridge board, 8 in eave overhang and 4 in rake overhang. The roof works out to about 151 sq ft.
• Floor: three pressure-treated 4×4 skids running the 14 ft length, about 46 in apart, under 2×6 joists cut to 7′ 9″ and 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood. The skids sit on a crushed stone pad 16 x 10 ft and 4 in deep, 12 in wider than the shed on every side, with 20 percent added for compaction.
• Loads: the 2×4 rafters pass a span table check at 30 psf ground snow (SPF #2 at 16 in, 48 in run). That is the generator’s design assumption; if your snow load may be higher, check your local permit office before you buy rafter stock.
• Openings: a 60 in wide double door (two shop-built T1-11 leaves) on 76 1/2 in trimmers in the front wall, and one 36 x 36 in window in the back wall.

On an 8 ft deep floor, two rows of 47 1/2 in net cover 95 in and a 1 in filler strip finishes the 96 in depth, so no floor sheet needs a lengthwise rip.

Shopping list by stage

Lumber sizes are nominal, and the span check assumes SPF #2 or better framing lumber. A 2×4 measures about 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in, as the American Wood Council explains. Check the grade stamp on plywood and OSB; the APA trademark guide shows how to read it.

Totals at a glance

Material	Total
2×4 framing boards, all lengths	91
2×4 x 8 ft for brace stakes and deck cleats	3
2×4 x 12 ft for temporary braces	12
All 2x4s for the yard trip	106
Pressure-treated 2×6 (2 rims at 14 ft, 12 joists at 8 ft)	14
Pressure-treated 4×4 x 14 ft (skids)	3
2×6 x 8 ft (window header)	1
2×6 x 16 ft (ridge board)	1
2×8 x 12 ft (door header)	1
3/4 in T&G plywood sheets (floor)	4
7/16 in OSB sheets (roof)	6
5/8 in T1-11 sheets (walls, gable, door leaves)	15
1/2 in plywood sheet (soffit, header fillers)	1
3-tab shingle bundles	6

Floor

Item	Qty	Used for
Pressure-treated 4×4 x 14 ft, tagged for ground contact	3	Skids, full length
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 14 ft	2	Rim joists at 14′ 0″
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 8 ft	12	Floor joists cut to 7′ 9″, one from each board
3/4 in T&G plywood, 4×8 sheet	4	Floor decking (112 sq ft)
Crushed stone 3/4 in, loose	2.4 cu yd	Gravel pad, measured loose before tamping
Deck screws 2 in (or 6d ring-shank nails), rated for treated lumber	3 lb	Decking
Construction adhesive, 10 oz tube	7	Joist, rim and door-frame beads (171 ft of bead)

Walls and roof framing

Item	Qty	Used for
2×4 x 8 ft	58	39 wall studs, side wall plates and cap plates, cripples, the window sill, gable studs, lookout and frieze blocks
2×4 x 10 ft	10	10 rafter ties cut to 8′ 0″
2×4 x 12 ft	14	24 rafters and 4 fly rafters, two from each board
2×4 x 14 ft	8	Front and back wall plates and cap plates, door and window trimmers
2×4 x 16 ft	1	5 collar ties
2×8 x 12 ft	1	Door header, doubled
2×6 x 8 ft	1	Window header, doubled
2×6 x 16 ft	1	Ridge board
Hurricane ties, H2.5A type or equal	24	Rafter to plate
2×4 x 12 ft, temporary	12	Wall braces, reused later
2×4 x 8 ft	3	8 brace stakes 24 in long and 8 deck cleats 12 in long

The floor’s two 7′ 0″ filler strips are ripped to 1 in from 1×4 x 8 ft boards counted with the trim. The two header filler strips of 1/2 in plywood are ripped from the soffit sheet, so buy that sheet with the wall lumber.

Roof covering

Item	Qty	Used for
7/16 in OSB, 4×8 sheet	6	Roof sheathing (151 sq ft)
15 lb felt, 400 sq ft roll	1	Underlayment
3-tab shingles, 26 per bundle	6 bundles	Roof, starter course and ridge cap
Drip edge, 10 ft	6	Eaves and rakes
Roofing nails 1 1/4 in galvanized	5 lb	Shingles
Roofing cap nails 1 in	1 lb	Felt
Roofing cement, 10 oz tube	2	Sealing exposed nail heads and flashing laps
Insect screen, 2 ft x 25 ft	1 roll	The 1 in vent gap under the gable end rafters

Siding and trim

Item	Qty	Used for
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet	12	Walls (352 sq ft, before the door and window cut-outs)
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet	1	Both gable triangles, cut as strips
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet	2	Door leaves, one sheet each
1/2 in plywood, 4×8 sheet	1	Eave soffit and header fillers
Z-flashing, 10 ft	2	Wall siding to gable siding joint
Drip cap, 10 ft	1	Over the door and window head casings
1×6 x 16 ft	2	Eave fascia
1×6 x 12 ft	2	Rake fascia, two pieces from each board
1×4 x 16 ft	2	Corner trim on the eave walls
1×4 x 14 ft	4	Door casing sides, door stiles, door Z braces
1×4 x 12 ft	1	Door rails
1×4 x 8 ft	9	Gable-wall corner trim, floor filler strips, door head casing, window casings
1×2 x 8 ft	2	Door stop and the astragal on the fixed leaf
Exterior paint and primer in one	4 gal	Two coats of about 519 sq ft each, sized at 300 sq ft a gallon on rough T1-11 plus 10 percent
Exterior caulk	3 tubes	Trim

Hardware and window

Item	Qty
Framing nails 3 1/2 in (16d), hot-dip galvanized (about 1,106 nails plus 10 percent)	31 lb
Siding nails 2 1/2 in (8d), hot-dip galvanized	10 lb
Sheathing nails 2 1/2 in (8d) for OSB	5 lb
Connector nails 1 1/2 in for the hurricane ties	2 lb
T-strap door hinges (3 per leaf)	6
Door handle and latch set	1
Barrel bolts for the fixed leaf	2
Exterior screws 1 1/4 in (door frame to T1-11)	1 lb
Exterior screws 2 1/2 in (hinge straps into framing)	1 box
Prefabricated window, 36 x 36 in rough opening	1
Flashing tape 4 in	1 roll
Wood shims for the door and window	1 bundle

Cut list highlights

Most of the 8×14 cut list is square cuts: 39 wall studs at 7′ 6″ (12 in the front wall, 13 in the back, 7 in each side wall), 12 floor joists at 7′ 9″ and three 14′ 0″ skids. The parts below need angle cuts or come in several lengths.

Part	Lumber	Cut length	Qty
Rafter (board length, see below)	2×4	5′ 3 1/2″	24
Fly rafter (rake)	2×4	5′ 3 1/2″	4
Ridge board	2×6	14′ 8″	1
Rafter tie (interior pairs, at the plates)	2×4	8′ 0″	10
Collar tie	2×4	3′ 0 9/16″	5
Lookout block (rake overhang)	2×4	2 1/2″	16
Frieze block (over the eave walls, top beveled)	2×4	1′ 1″ (18), 4 1/4″ and 1′ 1 3/4″ (2 each)	22
Door header (2×8 doubled + 1/2 ply)	2×8	5′ 3″	2
Door trimmer	2×4	6′ 4 1/2″	2
Door cripple (over the header)	2×4	6 1/4″	4
Window header (2×6 doubled + 1/2 ply)	2×6	3′ 3″	2
Window trimmer	2×4	6′ 1″	2
Center gable stud (under the ridge)	2×4	1′ 8 3/4″	2
Gable end studs	2×4	7 1/8″ and 1′ 3 1/8″	4 each
Side wall plates	2×4	7′ 4 7/8″	4
Side wall cap plates	2×4	8′ 0″	2
Front and back cap plates	2×4	13′ 5″	2
Front and back wall plates	2×4	14′ 0″	4

Rafters. The 5′ 3 1/2″ figure is the overall length of board each rafter needs, from the tip of the ridge plumb cut to the far tip of the tail plumb cut, including the 8 in eave overhang. Do not measure it along the top edge; lay out the cuts with a speed square on a pattern rafter. A 12 ft 2×4 gives two of them with about 17 in left over.

Mark the plumb cuts with the speed square pivoted to 6 on the common scale (26.6 degrees). The birdsmouth notch is about 1 1/8 in deep measured square to the rafter edge, under one third of the rafter depth, and leaves a 2 1/2 in seat on the plate. Cut one pattern rafter, test it at both ends of the ridge, then trace the other 23. The 4 fly rafters hang off the lookout blocks and the ridge extension, so they get the ridge plumb cut but no birdsmouth.

Ridge. The ridge is one 2×6 cut to 14′ 8″, running 4 in past each gable wall to carry the fly rafters. The 2×6 is 5 1/2 in deep, more than the 3.9 in plumb cut on a 2×4 rafter, so the whole plumb cut lands against the ridge face.

Rafter ties. A ridge board is not a beam, so the 10 interior rafter pairs each get an 8′ 0″ tie at the plates to keep the eave walls from spreading. The 5 collar ties higher up do not replace them, and they go on interior pairs only, because the two end pairs carry the gable studs.

Door header. The 60 in double door needs a 63 in header (the opening plus two trimmers), and the generator moves up to a doubled 2×8 with a 1/2 in plywood filler for that span. It sits on 6′ 4 1/2″ trimmers with four 6 1/4″ cripples above. The bottom plate is cut out of the doorway after the wall is up.

Window. The back wall window gets a doubled 2×6 header on 6′ 1″ trimmers, two 11 1/2″ cripples above, a 3′ 0″ sill and two 2′ 11 1/2″ cripples below, for a rough sill 37 in above the top of the bottom plate.

Gable studs. Each 8 ft gable has one 1′ 8 3/4″ center stud under the ridge plus four end studs, two at 7 1/8″ and two at 1′ 3 1/8″. At 6/12 the roof rises 1/2 in for every inch you move toward the ridge, so a stud 16 in closer to the ridge is 8 in longer. Mark each stud’s spot on the plate, measured from the building corner so the gable siding joints land on a stud, then measure each one off your actual end rafter before cutting.

Plates. The side walls have 7′ 4 7/8″ bottom and top plates, 1/8 in short of the gap between the front and back walls so a framed side wall drops in without a sledge. Their 8′ 0″ cap plates lap over the front and back walls to lock the corners, and the front and back cap plates are cut 7 in short to 13′ 5″.

Siding at the rim. On the front and back walls the T1-11 laps the rim joist by 2 7/16 in and is nailed into it. On the side walls it laps the end joists by only 3/4 in, too little to nail into, so nail it into the bottom plate and seal the plate-to-floor seam with flashing tape or caulk first.

Gable vs lean-to: what changes

We ran the same 8×14 footprint as a lean-to (single-slope) roof at 3/12, with an 80 in low back wall, the same 60 in double door in the high front wall and the window in the back wall. The skids, joists and decking stay the same; the studs, rafters and siding change.

Item	Gable (6/12)	Lean-to (3/12)
Rafters	24 2×4 at 5′ 3 1/2″ + 4 fly	12 2×4 at 9′ 8 3/8″ + 2 fly
Ridge board	2×6, 14′ 8″	None
Wall studs	7′ 6″ on all four walls	8′ 2 5/8″ front, 6′ 3 1/2″ back, seven lengths on each side
2×4 framing boards bought	91: 58 at 8 ft, 10 at 10, 14 at 12, 8 at 14, 1 at 16	68: 23 at 8 ft, 30 at 10, 1 at 12, 14 at 14
All 2x4s for the yard trip (with stakes, cleats and braces)	106	83
1×4 trim boards	16: 9 at 8 ft, 1 at 12, 4 at 14, 2 at 16	16: 5 at 8 ft, 4 at 10, 1 at 12, 6 at 14
T1-11 sheets	15, all 4×8	14: six 4×9, eight 4×8
Roof OSB sheets	6	5
Shingle bundles	6	5
Felt	1 roll	1 roll, laid double below 4/12
Fascia boards	1×6: 2 at 16 ft, 2 at 12 ft	1×6: 2 at 16 ft, 2 at 10 ft
Framing nails	31 lb	22 lb
Extra hardware	2 Z-flashing	4 twist straps at the wall corners
Paint	4 gal (2 coats of about 519 sq ft)	4 gal (2 coats of about 483 sq ft)
Extension ladder	16 ft	20 ft
Floor	3 skids, 12 joists, 4 sheets	3 skids, 12 joists, 4 sheets

On an 8 ft deep lean-to the 2×4 rafters still pass, with less room to spare than on the gable: the generator checks an 89 in span against a 98 in limit for 2×4 at 30 psf. Each 9′ 8 3/8″ rafter comes out of one 10 ft 2×4, so a bad cut costs a whole board. Each side wall has 7 studs from 6′ 5 3/8″ to 8′ 3 1/4″ under a 7′ 7 5/8″ sloped top plate. The steps between them are not all equal, so cut each stud from the cut list and lay them out on the deck first.

The lean-to front wall is the heaviest lift of either version, about 215 lb as a bare frame, still a 2 person job. The 4×9 siding sheets for the front wall and the tall end of each side wall are a special order at some yards.

On the lean-to the siding laps the rim and end joists by only 3/4 in on all four walls, so nail it into the bottom plates and seal that seam first. At 3/12, read the minimum slope on the shingle wrapper and follow the maker’s low-slope instructions. For more on single-slope builds, see how to build a lean-to shed and our gable vs lean-to vs hip roof comparison.

Where the waste goes

• Wall studs: 90 in studs leave about 6 in from each 8 ft board.
• Floor joists: a 7′ 9″ joist from an 8 ft board leaves only 3 in, so square one end, then cut to length; there is no second chance.
• Floor decking: four sheets give 128 sq ft for a 112 sq ft floor, about 16 sq ft over. The 96 in depth takes two rows of 47 1/2 in net with no rip, and the 1 in filler strip from a 1×4 covers the rest along one rim. Lay out the end joints so they stagger between the two rows and each one lands on a joist.
• Rafters: a 12 ft board gives two 63 1/2 in rafters with about 17 in left; keep those offcuts as spare blocking.
• Ridge and fascia: the 14′ 8″ ridge and both 14′ 8″ eave fascia boards each leave 16 in from a 16 ft board. Each 12 ft rake fascia board gives two 5′ 3 1/2″ pieces.
• No trim room: the skids, rim joists and front and back wall plates are all 14′ 0″, a whole 14 ft board, and the side cap plates are 8′ 0″, a whole 8 ft board. The 8′ 0″ rafter ties come from 10 ft boards, so each leaves about 2 ft. Check at the yard that the factory ends are square.
• Sheets: 12 wall sheets (384 sq ft) cover 352 sq ft of wall, so buy one spare T1-11 sheet if a damaged sheet would mean a long trip back.
• Hauling: the 12, 14 and 16 ft boards will not fit most cars, so plan on yard delivery or a trailer.
• No spares: the counts include nothing for rejects. Sight down each board at the yard, skip bowed or twisted ones, and add a few 2×4 x 8 ft if you expect to cull some.

Tools and crew for an 8×14 build

• Circular saw, speed square and framing square for 39 stud cuts and 28 rafters; cut the 2 1/2 in lookout blocks from a long clamped stick with a stop block, never as loose scraps
• Table saw or a circular saw with a straightedge guide for the 1 in filler strips and the 1/2 in soffit strips
• Framing hammer or framing nailer, and a drill/driver for the screws
• 4 ft level and a 25 ft tape for checking that the floor diagonals match
• A hand tamper or a rented plate compactor for 2.4 cu yd of gravel, laid in thin layers
• A 16 ft extension ladder for the roof edge, and a stepladder on the deck for the ridge
• Safety glasses and hearing protection for the saw work, and level, firm footing for the ladder
• One helper: the heaviest bare wall frame, the back wall, is about 206 lb, a 2 person lift

Common mistakes

• Undersizing the door header. The 60 in double door needs a 63 in header, and this build’s header check calls for a doubled 2×8 at that span. Do not swap in 2×6 to save a board.
• Skipping rafter ties. Ten 8′ 0″ ties at the plates keep the 14 ft eave walls from bowing out under the roof. Nail each tie fully to the rafter heel and the plate as each pair goes up, following the nailing schedule in your plan, not just tacked.
• Forgetting the door sheets. The siding cut out of the doorway is 76 1/2 in tall, shorter than the 77 1/4 in door leaves, so each leaf needs its own new T1-11 sheet.
• Swapping materials without recounting. This list is for 3-tab shingles and T1-11. Architectural shingles, metal roofing or lap siding cover differently, so recount from the coverage printed on the bundle or the maker’s install guide.
• Untreated wood near the ground. Skids, rims and joists are pressure treated; plain framing lumber there rots. Use ground-contact rated wood for the skids, and ask the yard for the same rating on the rims and joists, which sit only about 3 1/2 in above the gravel, and hot-dip galvanized nails and treated-lumber rated screws in treated wood. The USDA Wood Handbook covers why wet, untreated wood decays.

Before you order

Floor area, height and distance to the lot line can all matter for a shed, especially a long 8×14 set along a fence. Ask how your town measures them and whether a skid shed needs ground anchors: check your local permit office before you order. Our shed permit checklist lists what to ask.

For the base under the skids, see shed foundation options. For rough price ranges on this kind of list, see how much it costs to build a shed, and for build time, how long it takes to build a shed.

Weighing a kit or a prebuilt 8×14 instead? Read build or buy a shed. To compare 2×4 counts across sizes, see how many 2x4s to build a shed, and for other sizes try the shed material calculator.

Get the full plan

The 8×14 gable shed plan is a 3DSHEDPLANS PDF with 40+ steps, 3D images and a printable material list with quantities. Its own list follows its 30 in single door and trusses, so shop from that list if you build it. Download the free 8×14 gable shed plan preview PDF.

Want a paid plan with a 60 in double door? The 8×12 gable shed plan has one, the 10×14 gable shed plan is 2 ft deeper, the 8×20 gable shed plan is 6 ft longer, and the 8×16 lean-to shed plan is 2 ft longer with a single-slope roof. Compare the 8×12 shed material list, or browse every size on the shed plans page.

Frequently asked questions

How many 2x4s do I need to build an 8×14 shed?

91 for the framing of an 8×14 gable shed with a double door and one window: 58 at 8 ft, 10 at 10 ft, 14 at 12 ft, 8 at 14 ft and 1 at 16 ft. Add 3 2×4 x 8 ft for brace stakes and deck cleats and 12 2×4 x 12 ft temporary braces, 106 in all.

How many sheets of plywood, OSB and siding for an 8×14 shed?

4 sheets of 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood for the floor, 6 sheets of 7/16 in OSB for the roof, 15 sheets of 5/8 in T1-11 (12 walls, 1 gable, 2 door leaves) and 1 sheet of 1/2 in plywood for the soffit and header fillers.

How many bundles of shingles for an 8×14 shed roof?

6 bundles of 3-tab shingles for an 8×14 gable roof at 6/12, about 151 sq ft with an 8 in eave and 4 in rake overhang. That covers the roof plus 10 percent, the starter course and the ridge cap. A 3/12 lean-to roof on the same floor takes 5 bundles.

What lumber do I need for an 8×14 shed floor?

Three pressure-treated 4×4 x 14 ft skids, two pressure-treated 2×6 x 14 ft rims, twelve pressure-treated 2×6 x 8 ft joists cut to 7' 9", and four sheets of 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood, set on a crushed stone pad.

Are there 8×14 shed plans with a parts list?

Yes. The 3DSHEDPLANS 8×14 gable shed plan PDF comes with a printable material list with quantities and 40+ build steps, and a free preview PDF shows the format. This page is a separate free list for a stick-framed version with a 60 in double door.