6x12 Shed Material List: Lumber, Sheets and Hardware

Last updated October 19, 2026

This 6×12 shed material list is for a gable shed on skids. It takes 74 framing 2x4s, 13 sheets of T1-11, 4 of OSB, 3 of plywood and 5 shingle bundles, plus 7 treated 2x6s and 3 treated 4x4s for the floor. That assumes 94 1/2 in walls, a 6/12 roof and 16 in spacing.

Every quantity and cut length here comes from the 3DSHEDPLANS plan generator, which models each stud, rafter and sheet in 3D. It then runs 84 checks on the build, from rafter span and header depth to sheet coverage, and this 6×12 passed all of them. It is a shopping aid, not a stamped engineering drawing.

What this 6×12 shed material list assumes

The generator ran a shed 6 ft deep and 12 ft wide, 72 sq ft of floor. The ridge runs the 12 ft length, the rafters span the 6 ft depth, and the door sits in the 12 ft front wall. These are its settings:

• Walls: 94 1/2 in tall including the bottom plate and double top plate, so wall studs are cut to 90 in (7′ 6″).
• Spacing: studs, floor joists and rafters all at 16 in on center.
• Roof: 6/12 pitch, 2×4 rafters, a 2×6 ridge board, 8 in eave overhang and 4 in rake overhang. The roof works out to about 102 sq ft.
• Floor: three pressure-treated 4×4 skids running the 12 ft length, about 34 in apart, under 2×6 joists cut to 5′ 9″ and 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood. The skids sit on a crushed stone pad 14 x 8 ft and 4 in deep, 12 in wider than the shed on every side, with 20 percent added for compaction.
• Loads: the 2×4 rafters pass a span table check at 30 psf ground snow (SPF #2 at 16 in, 36 in run). That is the generator’s design assumption; if your snow load may be higher, check your local permit office before you buy rafter stock.
• Openings: a 60 in wide double door (two shop-built T1-11 leaves) on 76 1/2 in trimmers in the front wall, and one 36 x 36 in window in the back wall.

The lean-to version further down drops the back wall to 80 in, so it suits a spot against a fence or a house wall where a gable peak would sit too high.

Shopping list by stage

Lumber sizes are nominal, and the span check assumes SPF #2 or better framing lumber. A 2×4 measures about 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in, as the American Wood Council explains. Check the grade stamp on plywood and OSB; the APA trademark guide shows how to read it.

Totals at a glance

Material	Total
2×4 framing boards, all lengths	74
2×4 x 8 ft for floor seam blocks, brace stakes and deck cleats	5
2×4 x 12 ft for temporary braces	12
All 2x4s for the yard trip	91
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 12 ft (2 rims, 5 joist boards)	7
Pressure-treated 4×4 x 12 ft (skids)	3
2×6 (1 header board at 8 ft, 1 ridge at 14 ft)	2
2×8 x 12 ft (door header)	1
3/4 in T&G plywood sheets (floor)	3
7/16 in OSB sheets (roof)	4
5/8 in T1-11 sheets (walls, gable, door leaves)	13
1/2 in plywood sheet (soffit, header fillers)	1
3-tab shingle bundles	5

Floor

Item	Qty	Used for
Pressure-treated 4×4 x 12 ft, tagged for ground contact	3	Skids, full length
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 12 ft	2	Rim joists at 12′ 0″
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 12 ft	5	10 floor joists cut to 5′ 9″, two from each board
3/4 in T&G plywood, 4×8 sheet	3	Floor decking (72 sq ft)
2×4 x 8 ft	2	Flat blocks under the decking seams
Crushed stone 3/4 in, loose	1.7 cu yd	Gravel pad, measured loose before tamping
Deck screws 2 in (or 6d ring-shank nails), rated for treated lumber	3 lb	Decking
Construction adhesive, 10 oz tube	5	Joist, rim and door-frame beads

Walls and roof framing

Item	Qty	Used for
2×4 x 8 ft	50	34 wall studs, side wall cap plates, cripples, the window sill, gable studs, lookout and frieze blocks
2×4 x 10 ft	3	4 fly rafters and 4 collar ties
2×4 x 12 ft	8	Front and back wall plates and cap plates, side wall plates
2×4 x 14 ft	13	20 rafters, 8 rafter ties and the door and window trimmers
2×8 x 12 ft	1	Door header, doubled
2×6 x 8 ft	1	Window header, doubled
2×6 x 14 ft	1	Ridge board
Hurricane ties, H2.5A type or equal	20	Rafter to plate
2×4 x 12 ft, temporary	12	Wall braces, reused later
2×4 x 8 ft	3	8 brace stakes 24 in long and 8 deck cleats 12 in long

The two header filler strips of 1/2 in plywood are ripped from the soffit sheet, so buy that sheet with the wall lumber.

Roof covering

Item	Qty	Used for
7/16 in OSB, 4×8 sheet	4	Roof sheathing
15 lb felt, 400 sq ft roll	1	Underlayment
3-tab shingles, 26 per bundle	5 bundles	Roof, starter course and ridge cap
Drip edge, 10 ft	5	Eaves and rakes
Roofing nails 1 1/4 in galvanized	5 lb	Shingles
Roofing cap nails 1 in	1 lb	Felt
Roofing cement, 10 oz tube	2	Sealing exposed nail heads and flashing laps
Insect screen, 2 ft x 25 ft	1 roll	Vent gaps under the gable rafters and at the eaves

Siding and trim

Item	Qty	Used for
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet	10	Walls (288 sq ft, before the door and window cut-outs)
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet	1	Both gable triangles, cut as strips
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet	2	Door leaves, one sheet each
1/2 in plywood, 4×8 sheet	1	Eave soffit and header fillers
Z-flashing, 10 ft	2	Wall siding to gable siding joint
Drip cap, 10 ft	1	Over the door and window head casings
1×6 x 14 ft	2	Eave fascia
1×6 x 10 ft	2	Rake fascia, two pieces from each board
1×4 x 16 ft	2	Corner trim on the eave walls
1×4 x 14 ft	4	Door casing sides, door stiles, door Z braces
1×4 x 12 ft	1	Door rails
1×4 x 8 ft	7	Gable-wall corner trim, door head casing, window casings
1×2 x 8 ft	2	Door stop and the astragal on the fixed leaf
Exterior paint and primer in one	4 gal	Two coats of about 441 sq ft each, sized at 300 sq ft a gallon on rough T1-11 plus 10 percent
Exterior caulk	3 tubes	Trim

Hardware and window

Item	Qty
Framing nails 3 1/2 in (16d), hot-dip galvanized (about 960 nails plus 10 percent)	27 lb
Siding nails 2 1/2 in (8d), hot-dip galvanized	10 lb
Sheathing nails 2 1/2 in (8d) for OSB	5 lb
Connector nails 1 1/2 in for the hurricane ties	2 lb
T-strap door hinges (3 per leaf)	6
Door handle and latch set	1
Barrel bolts for the fixed leaf	2
Exterior screws 1 1/4 in (door frame to T1-11)	1 lb
Exterior screws 2 1/2 in (hinge straps into framing)	1 box
Prefabricated window, 36 x 36 in rough opening	1
Flashing tape 4 in	1 roll
Wood shims for the door and window	1 bundle

Cut list highlights

Most of the 6×12 cut list is square cuts: 34 wall studs at 7′ 6″, 10 floor joists at 5′ 9″ and three 12′ 0″ skids. The parts below need angle cuts or come in several lengths.

Part	Lumber	Cut length	Qty
Rafter (board length, see below)	2×4	4′ 2 1/8″	20
Fly rafter (rake)	2×4	4′ 2 1/8″	4
Ridge board	2×6	12′ 8″	1
Rafter tie (interior pairs, at the plates)	2×4	6′ 0″	8
Collar tie	2×4	2′ 4 9/16″	4
Lookout block (rake overhang)	2×4	2 1/2″	12
Frieze block (over the eave walls, top beveled)	2×4	1′ 1″ (14), 1′ 0 1/4″ and 1′ 1 3/4″ (2 each)	18
Door header (2×8 doubled + 1/2 ply)	2×8	5′ 3″	2
Door trimmer	2×4	6′ 4 1/2″	2
Door cripple (over the header)	2×4	6 1/4″	4
Window header (2×6 doubled + 1/2 ply)	2×6	3′ 3″	2
Window trimmer	2×4	6′ 1″	2
Center gable stud (under the ridge)	2×4	1′ 2 3/4″	2
Gable end studs	2×4	3 1/8″, 7 1/8″, 11 1/8″ and 1′ 3 1/8″	2 each
Side wall plates	2×4	5′ 4 7/8″	4
Side wall cap plates	2×4	6′ 0″	2
Front and back cap plates	2×4	11′ 5″	2
Front and back wall plates	2×4	12′ 0″	4

Rafters. The 4′ 2 1/8″ figure is the overall length of board each rafter needs, from the tip of the ridge plumb cut to the far tip of the tail plumb cut, including the 8 in eave overhang. Do not measure it along the top edge; lay out the cuts with a speed square on a pattern rafter. A 14 ft 2×4 gives three of them with about 17 in left over.

Mark the plumb cuts with the speed square pivoted to 6 on the common scale (26.6 degrees). The birdsmouth notch is about 1 1/8 in deep measured square to the rafter edge, under one third of the rafter depth. Cut one pattern rafter, test it at both ends of the ridge, then trace the other 19. The 4 fly rafters hang off the lookout blocks and the ridge extension, so they get the ridge plumb cut but no birdsmouth.

Ridge. The ridge is one 2×6 cut to 12′ 8″, running 4 in past each gable wall to carry the fly rafters. The 2×6 is deeper than the 3.9 in plumb cut on a 2×4 rafter, so the whole plumb cut lands against the ridge face.

Rafter ties. A ridge board is not a beam, so the 8 interior rafter pairs each get a 6′ 0″ tie at the plates to keep the eave walls from spreading. The 4 collar ties higher up do not replace them.

Door header. The 60 in double door needs a 63 in header (the opening plus two trimmers), and the generator moves up to a doubled 2×8 with a 1/2 in plywood filler for that span. It sits on 6′ 4 1/2″ trimmers with four 6 1/4″ cripples above. The bottom plate is cut out of the doorway after the wall is up.

Window. The back wall window gets a doubled 2×6 header on 6′ 1″ trimmers, two 11 1/2″ cripples above, a 3′ 0″ sill and two 2′ 11 1/2″ cripples below, for a rough sill 37 in above the top of the bottom plate.

Gable studs. Each 6 ft gable has one 1′ 2 3/4″ center stud under the ridge plus four end studs cut to 3 1/8″, 7 1/8″, 11 1/8″ and 1′ 3 1/8″. At 6/12 the roof rises 1/2 in for every inch you move toward the ridge, so a stud 8 in closer to the ridge is 4 in longer. Mark each stud’s spot on the plate, then measure it off your actual end rafter before cutting.

Plates. The side walls have 5′ 4 7/8″ bottom and top plates, 1/8 in short of the gap between the front and back walls so a framed side wall drops in without a sledge. Their 6′ 0″ cap plates lap over the front and back walls to lock the corners, and the front and back cap plates are cut 7 in short to 11′ 5″.

Siding at the rim. On the front and back walls the T1-11 laps the rim joist by 2 7/16 in and is nailed into it. On the side walls it laps the end joists by only 3/4 in, too little to nail into, so nail it into the bottom plate and seal the plate-to-floor seam with flashing tape or caulk first.

Gable vs lean-to: what changes

We ran the same 6×12 footprint as a lean-to (single-slope) roof at 3/12, with an 80 in low back wall, the same 60 in double door in the high front wall and the window in the back wall. That run passed all 72 of its checks. The skids, joists and decking stay the same; the studs, rafters and siding change.

Item	Gable (6/12)	Lean-to (3/12)
Rafters	20 2×4 at 4′ 2 1/8″ + 4 fly	10 2×4 at 7′ 7 5/8″ + 2 fly
Ridge board	2×6, 12′ 8″	None
Wall studs	7′ 6″ on all four walls	7′ 8 5/8″ front, 6′ 3 1/2″ back, six lengths on each side
2×4 framing boards bought	74: 50 at 8 ft, 3 at 10, 8 at 12, 13 at 14	58: 41 at 8 ft, 2 at 10, 8 at 12, 7 at 14
All 2x4s for the yard trip (with blocking and braces)	91	75
1×4 trim boards	14: 7 at 8 ft, 1 at 12, 4 at 14, 2 at 16	14: 3 at 8 ft, 4 at 10, 1 at 12, 6 at 14
T1-11 sheets	13, all 4×8	12: five 4×9, seven 4×8
Roof OSB sheets	4	4
Shingle bundles	5	4
Felt	1 roll	1 roll, laid double below 4/12
Fascia boards	1×6: 2 at 14 ft, 2 at 10 ft	1×6: 2 at 14 ft, 2 at 8 ft
Framing nails	27 lb	20 lb
Extra hardware	2 Z-flashing	4 twist straps at the wall corners
Paint	4 gal (2 coats of about 441 sq ft)	3 gal (2 coats of about 406 sq ft)
Floor	3 skids, 10 joists, 3 sheets	3 skids, 10 joists, 3 sheets

On a 6 ft deep lean-to the 2×4 rafters have room to spare: the generator checks a 65 in span against a 98 in limit for 2×4 at 30 psf. Each 7′ 7 5/8″ rafter comes out of one 8 ft 2×4, so a bad cut costs a whole board. Each side wall has 6 studs stepping from 6′ 5 3/8″ to 7′ 9 1/4″ under a 5′ 6 7/8″ sloped top plate, so lay them out on the deck before cutting.

The high front wall’s 7′ 8 5/8″ studs match the 92 5/8 in precut stud sold at many yards. The 4×9 siding sheets for the front wall and the tall end of each side wall are a special order at some yards.

On the lean-to the siding laps the rim and end joists by only 3/4 in on all four walls, so nail it into the bottom plates and seal that seam first. At 3/12, read the minimum slope on the shingle wrapper and follow the maker’s low-slope instructions. For more on single-slope builds, see how to build a lean-to shed and our gable vs lean-to vs hip roof comparison.

Where the waste goes

• Wall studs: 90 in studs leave about 6 in from each 8 ft board. Precut 92 5/8 in studs also work; trim 2 5/8 in off each.
• Floor joists: two 5′ 9″ joists from each 12 ft board leave about 6 in, so a split joist means a new board.
• Floor decking: three sheets give 96 sq ft for a 72 sq ft floor, about 24 sq ft over. Many T&G panels cover about 47 1/2 in net, so the 72 in depth is one row of full sheets plus a row ripped to about 24 1/2 in. Measure what the first row leaves before you rip. The two 2×4 x 8 ft on the list become flat blocks under seams that fall between joists.
• Rafters: a 14 ft board gives three 50 1/8 in rafters with about 17 in left; keep those offcuts as spare blocking.
• Ridge and fascia: the 12′ 8″ ridge and both 12′ 8″ eave fascia boards each leave 16 in from a 14 ft board. Each 10 ft rake fascia board gives two 4′ 2″ pieces.
• No trim room: the skids, rim joists and front and back wall plates are all 12′ 0″, a whole 12 ft board. Check at the yard that the factory ends are square.
• Sheets: 10 wall sheets (320 sq ft) cover 288 sq ft of wall, so buy one spare T1-11 sheet if a damaged sheet would mean a long trip back.
• Hauling: the 12, 14 and 16 ft boards will not fit most cars, so plan on yard delivery or a trailer.
• No spares: the counts include nothing for rejects. Sight down each board at the yard, skip bowed or twisted ones, and add a few 2×4 x 8 ft if you expect to cull some.

Tools and crew for a 6×12 build

• Circular saw, speed square and framing square for 34 stud cuts and 24 rafters; cut the 2 1/2 in lookout blocks from a long clamped stick with a stop block, never as loose scraps
• Table saw or a circular saw with a straightedge guide for the floor rip and the 1/2 in soffit strips
• Framing hammer or framing nailer, and a drill/driver for the screws
• 4 ft level and a 25 ft tape for checking that the floor diagonals match
• A hand tamper or a rented plate compactor for 1.7 cu yd of gravel, laid in thin layers
• A 16 ft extension ladder for the roof edge, and a stepladder on the deck for the ridge
• One helper: the heaviest bare wall frame, the back wall, is about 191 lb, a 2 person lift

Common mistakes

• Undersizing the door header. The 60 in double door needs a 63 in header, and this build’s header check calls for a doubled 2×8 at that span. Do not swap in 2×6 to save a board.
• Forgetting the door sheets. The siding cut out of the doorway is 76 1/2 in tall, shorter than the 77 1/4 in door leaves, so each leaf needs its own new T1-11 sheet.
• Leaving the fixed leaf loose. On a double door, one leaf stays shut with 2 barrel bolts and carries the 1×2 astragal the other leaf closes against. Fit them before you hang the latch.
• Swapping materials without recounting. This list is for 3-tab shingles and T1-11. Architectural shingles, metal roofing or lap siding cover differently, so recount from the coverage printed on the bundle or the maker’s install guide.
• Untreated wood near the ground. Skids, rims and joists are pressure treated; plain framing lumber there rots. Use ground-contact rated wood for the skids, and hot-dip galvanized nails and treated-lumber rated screws in treated wood. The USDA Wood Handbook covers why wet, untreated wood decays.

Before you order

Many towns set floor-area, height and setback limits for sheds, and a 6×12 near a fence line can run into the setback rule. Ask how your town measures height and distance to the lot line, and whether a skid shed needs ground anchors: check your local permit office before you order. Our shed permit checklist lists what to ask.

For the base under the skids, see shed foundation options. For rough price ranges on this kind of list, see how much it costs to build a shed.

Weighing a kit or a prebuilt 6×12 instead? Read build or buy a shed. To compare 2×4 counts across sizes, see how many 2x4s to build a shed, and for other sizes try the shed material calculator.

Get the full plan

3DSHEDPLANS does not sell a 6×12 plan PDF yet. The closest sizes are the 6×10 lean-to shed plan, the same depth and 2 ft shorter, and the 8×12 gable shed plan, the same length and 2 ft deeper. Each plan PDF has numbered build steps with 3D images and a printable material list for that size, so you shop from the plan’s own counts. Compare them with the 6×8 shed material list and the 8×12 shed material list.

Want to see the format first? Download the free 6×10 lean-to shed plan preview PDF or the free 8×12 gable shed plan preview PDF. Not sure 72 sq ft is enough? Read what size shed do I need, see every gable shed plan and lean-to shed plan, or browse every size on the shed plans page.

Frequently asked questions

How many 2x4s do I need to build a 6×12 shed?

74 for the framing of a 6×12 gable shed with a double door and one window: 50 at 8 ft, 3 at 10 ft, 8 at 12 ft and 13 at 14 ft. Add 5 2×4 x 8 ft for seam blocks, stakes and cleats, and 12 2×4 x 12 ft braces, 91 in all.

How many sheets of plywood, OSB and siding for a 6×12 shed?

3 sheets of 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood for the floor, 4 sheets of 7/16 in OSB for the roof, 13 sheets of 5/8 in T1-11 (10 walls, 1 gable, 2 door leaves) and 1 sheet of 1/2 in plywood for the soffit and header fillers.

How many bundles of shingles for a 6×12 shed roof?

5 bundles of 3-tab shingles for a 6×12 gable roof at 6/12, which is about 102 sq ft with an 8 in eave and 4 in rake overhang. That count covers the roof plus at least 10 percent, the starter course and the ridge cap. A 3/12 lean-to roof on the same floor takes 4 bundles.

What lumber do I need for a 6×12 shed floor?

Three pressure-treated 4×4 x 12 ft skids, two pressure-treated 2×6 x 12 ft rims, five pressure-treated 2×6 x 12 ft cut into ten 5' 9" joists, and three sheets of 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood, set on a crushed stone pad.

Is there a 6×12 shed plan with a materials list?

3DSHEDPLANS does not sell a 6×12 plan PDF yet, so this page is the free 6×12 list with cut lengths. The closest plans are the 6×10 lean-to and the 8×12 gable, and each comes with its own printable material list and a free preview PDF.