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A 6×6 lean-to shed material list on skids comes to 51 2×4 framing boards, 4 treated 2x6s for the 6 floor joists and rims, and 3 treated 4×4 skids. Sheets: 2 floor plywood, 2 OSB and 9 T1-11, plus 2 shingle bundles. That assumes an 80 in back wall, a 3/12 roof, a 39 in door and one window.
Every number here comes from the 3DSHEDPLANS plan generator, which frames the shed board by board and checks that every sloped side stud meets the roof line. The list is for a freestanding 6×6 shed. For one built onto a house wall, read building a lean-to shed against a house first.
What this 6×6 lean-to list assumes
The generator ran a shed 6 ft deep and 6 ft wide, 36 sq ft of floor. The roof slopes from front to back, so the front wall with the door is the tall one. These are its settings:
- Walls: the back (low) wall is 80 in tall and the front (high) wall is 97 1/8 in, both counting the bottom plate and double top plate. Back studs are 6′ 3 1/2″ and front studs 7′ 8 5/8″.
- Roof: 3/12 pitch (about 14 degrees), 2×4 rafters with a birdsmouth on both walls, 8 in overhangs front and back, 4 in rakes on the sides.
- Spacing: studs, floor joists and rafters at 16 in on center.
- Floor: three pressure-treated 4×4 skids about 34 in apart on a crushed stone pad, 2×6 joists, 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood.
- Loads: the 2×4 rafters span 65 in against a 98 in limit (SPF #2 at 16 in, 30 psf ground snow). If your ground snow load is over 30 psf, check your local permit office before you buy.
- Openings: one 39 in wide single door in the front wall and one 36 x 36 in window in the back wall.
That layout is the generator’s standard one, not our paid 6×6 lean-to shed plan, which has a 30 in door, no window and an 81 1/2 in sidewall, so its stud, siding and door counts differ. The plan PDF carries its own list for that layout. If you build that layout, take the plan’s list rather than adjusting this one by hand.
Shopping list by stage: the full 6×6 lean-to shed material list
Lumber sizes are nominal. A 2×4 measures about 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in and a 2×6 about 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in, as the American Wood Council explains. Plywood and OSB carry a grade stamp; the APA trademark guide shows how to read it.
Floor
| Item | Qty | Used for |
|---|---|---|
| Pressure-treated 4×4 x 8 ft | 3 | Skids, cut to 6′ 0″ |
| Pressure-treated 2×6 x 14 ft | 1 | Both rim joists (two 6′ 0″ pieces) |
| Pressure-treated 2×6 x 12 ft | 3 | 6 floor joists at 5′ 9″, two per board |
| 3/4 in T&G plywood, 4×8 sheet | 2 | Floor decking |
| 2×4 x 8 ft | 1 | Flat blocks under the decking seam |
| Crushed stone 3/4 in, loose | 1.0 cu yd | Gravel pad, before tamping |
| Deck screws 2 in (or 6d ring-shank nails) | 3 lb | Decking |
Walls
| Item | Qty | Used for |
|---|---|---|
| 2×4 x 8 ft | 37 | All 26 wall studs, cap plates, side bottom plates, cripples, window sill, rafter blocking and lookout blocks |
| 2×4 x 12 ft | 2 | Sloped side top plates and back window trimmers |
| 2×4 x 14 ft | 3 | Front and back plates, front door trimmers |
| 2×6 x 8 ft | 2 | Door header and window header |
| Strap ties (twist straps) | 4 | One per corner, where a sloped side plate meets the front or back wall |
| Temporary braces 2×4 x 12 ft | 8 | Wall bracing, reused later |
| 2×4 stakes, 24 in | 8 | Brace stakes, cut from offcuts (not a separate buy) |
The two header filler strips of 1/2 in plywood are ripped from the soffit sheet, so buy that sheet with the wall lumber. With the 8 rafter boards below, the seam-block board and the 8 braces, the truck carries 59 2x4s in all.
Roof
| Item | Qty | Used for |
|---|---|---|
| 2×4 x 8 ft | 8 | 6 rafters and 2 fly rafters |
| Hurricane ties, H2.5A type or equal | 12 | Rafter to plate, both walls |
| 7/16 in OSB, 4×8 sheet | 2 | Roof sheathing |
| 15 lb felt, 400 sq ft roll | 1 | Underlayment, laid double below 4/12 |
| 3-tab shingles, 26 per bundle | 2 bundles | Roof and starter course |
| Drip edge, 10 ft | 4 | Eaves and rakes |
| Roofing nails 1 1/4 in galvanized | 5 lb | Shingles |
| Roofing cap nails 1 in | 1 lb | Felt |
| Roofing cement, 10 oz tube | 2 | Roofing |
Siding and trim
| Item | Qty | Used for |
|---|---|---|
| 5/8 in T1-11, 4×9 sheet | 2 | Front (high) wall |
| 5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet | 2 | Back (low) wall |
| 5/8 in T1-11, 4×9 / 4×8 sheet | 2 / 2 | Sloped side walls |
| 5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet | 1 | Door leaf (the cut-out is too short to reuse) |
| 1/2 in plywood, 4×8 sheet | 1 | Eave soffit and header fillers |
| 1×6 x 14 ft | 1 | Both eave fascias |
| 1×6 x 8 ft | 2 | Rake fascias |
| 1×4 x 14 ft | 4 | Back corner trim, door casing sides, door stiles |
| 1×4 x 10 ft | 5 | Front corner trim, door rails |
| 1×4 x 8 ft | 4 | Door Z brace, door head casing, window casing |
| 1×2 x 8 ft | 2 | Door stops |
| Drip cap, 10 ft | 1 | Over the door and window head casings |
| Insect screen, 2 ft x 25 ft | 1 roll | Gaps at the eaves and soffit |
| Exterior paint and primer in one | 3 gal | Two coats, about 275 sq ft each |
| Exterior caulk | 3 tubes | Trim |
Hardware and window
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Framing nails 3 1/2 in (16d), hot-dip galvanized | 15 lb (about 510 nails plus 10 %) |
| Siding nails 2 1/2 in (8d), hot-dip galvanized | 10 lb |
| Sheathing nails 2 1/2 in (8d) for OSB | 5 lb |
| Connector nails 1 1/2 in for ties and straps | 1 lb |
| Construction adhesive, 10 oz tube | 3 |
| T-strap door hinges | 3 |
| Door handle and latch set | 1 |
| Exterior screws 1 1/4 in (door frame to T1-11) | 1 lb |
| Exterior screws 2 1/2 in (hinge straps into framing) | 1 box |
| Prefabricated window, 36 x 36 in rough opening | 1 |
| Flashing tape 4 in | 1 roll |
| Wood shims | 1 bundle |
Cut list highlights
Most of the 6×6 lean-to cut list is square cuts: 7 front studs at 7′ 8 5/8″, 7 back studs at 6′ 3 1/2″, 6 floor joists at 5′ 9″ and 3 skids at 6′ 0″. The parts below have angled cuts or many different lengths, so cut one, test it on your frame, then cut the rest.
| Part | Lumber | Cut length | Qty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rafter (board length) | 2×4 | 7′ 7 5/8″ | 6 |
| Fly rafter (rake) | 2×4 | 7′ 7 5/8″ | 2 |
| Side wall sloped top plate | 2×4 | 5′ 7″ | 2 |
| Side wall bottom plate | 2×4 | 5′ 4 7/8″ | 2 |
| Left wall studs | 2×4 | 6′ 5 3/8″ to 7′ 9 1/4″ | 6 |
| Right wall studs | 2×4 | 6′ 5 3/8″ to 7′ 9 1/4″ | 6 |
| Door header (2×6 doubled + 1/2 ply) | 2×6 | 3′ 6″ | 2 |
| Door trimmer | 2×4 | 6′ 4 1/2″ | 2 |
| Cripple over the door | 2×4 | 10 5/8″ | 2 |
| Window header (2×6 doubled + 1/2 ply) | 2×6 | 3′ 3″ | 2 |
| Window trimmer | 2×4 | 5′ 10″ | 2 |
| Blocking between rafters | 2×4 | 5 3/4″, 1′ 1 3/4″ and 1′ 2 1/2″ | 2, 2 and 6 |
| Lookout block (rake overhang) | 2×4 | 2 1/2″ | 10 |
| Eave fascia | 1×6 | 6′ 8″ | 2 |
| Rake fascia (tip to tip) | 1×6 | 7′ 9 5/8″ | 2 |
Rafters. The 7′ 7 5/8″ figure is the board each rafter needs, and it uses almost all of an 8 ft 2×4. Plumb cuts are at about 14 degrees (3 on a speed square). Each rafter gets two birdsmouths, one on each wall, so cut one pattern rafter, test it on both walls, then trace the other 5. The 2 fly rafters get no birdsmouth: the 2 1/2 in lookout blocks fill the gap between each end rafter and its fly rafter, which is nailed to their ends.
Side wall studs. Each side wall has 6 studs under a sloped top plate, but the two walls are not mirror images. The left wall runs 6′ 5 3/8″, 6′ 8 1/4″, 7′ 0 1/4″, 7′ 4 1/4″, 7′ 8 1/4″ and 7′ 9 1/4″. The right wall runs 7′ 9 1/4″, 7′ 6 1/4″, 7′ 2 1/4″, 6′ 10 1/4″, 6′ 6 1/4″ and 6′ 5 3/8″.
The lengths differ because the 16 in layout on each wall starts from a different corner. Every length is the long point, from the top of the bottom plate to the underside of the sloped plate. Cut the top of each stud at the roof angle and write the wall and position on it as you go.
Headers. The 39 in door opening gets a doubled 2×6 header with a 1/2 in plywood filler, 3′ 6″ long, on 6′ 4 1/2″ trimmers, with two 10 5/8″ cripples above it. The back window header is a doubled 2×6, 3′ 3″ long, on 5′ 10″ trimmers, and it fills the space up to the plates, so there are no cripples above it. Below the window go a 3′ 0″ sill and two 2′ 8 1/2″ cripples.
Plates. The front and back plates and cap plates run the full 6′ 0″. Each side wall has a 5′ 4 7/8″ bottom plate and a single 5′ 7″ sloped top plate between the front and back walls, and the 4 twist straps tie those corners together.
Gable vs lean-to: what changes
The same 6×6 footprint run as a gable at 6/12, with 94 1/2 in walls, keeps the floor and changes most of what sits above it. Here are both generator runs side by side.
| Item | Lean-to (3/12) | Gable (6/12) |
|---|---|---|
| Rafters | 6 2×4 at 7′ 7 5/8″ + 2 fly | 12 2×4 at 4′ 2 1/8″ + 4 fly |
| Ridge board | None | 2×6, cut 6′ 8″ |
| Rafter ties and collar ties | None (no ridge pushing the walls out) | 4 rafter ties + 2 collar ties |
| Wall studs | 7′ 8 5/8″ front, 6′ 3 1/2″ back, stepped sides | 7′ 6″ on all four walls |
| 2×4 framing boards (plus 8 braces in both) | 51 | 58 |
| 2×6 boards (not treated) | 2 | 3 |
| T1-11 sheets | 9: four 4×9, five 4×8 | 10, all 4×8 |
| Roof OSB sheets | 2 | 3 |
| Shingle bundles | 2 | 3 |
| Felt | 1 roll, laid double | 1 roll, single |
| Framing nails | 15 lb | 19 lb |
| Extra hardware | 4 twist straps | 2 Z-flashing (wall to gable siding) |
| Floor (skids, joists, decking) | 3, 6, 2 sheets | 3, 6, 2 sheets |
The lean-to saves 7 2x4s, a ridge board, a sheet of OSB and a bundle of shingles. It costs you 4×9 siding on the tall walls and a double layer of felt. For the wider trade-offs, read lean-to shed pros and cons, and for a gable 2 ft wider, see the 6×8 shed material list.
Where the waste goes
Here is what each stock length leaves on a 6×6 lean-to, and what to do with the scraps:
- Rafters: 7′ 7 5/8″ from an 8 ft 2×4 leaves only 4 3/8 in. Pick straight boards with square, uncracked ends.
- Front studs: 7′ 8 5/8″ from an 8 ft board leaves 3 3/8 in, so a split end means a new board.
- Back studs: 6′ 3 1/2″ from an 8 ft board leaves 20 1/2 in each. These seven scraps are your blocking stock.
- Plates: the 6′ 0″ cap plates leave 24 in of each 8 ft board, and the 5′ 4 7/8″ side bottom plates leave about 31 in. Those offcuts make the 24 in brace stakes.
- Skids: 6′ 0″ from an 8 ft treated 4×4 leaves 24 in each. Keep them for leveling blocks rather than stakes.
- Floor joists: two 5′ 9″ joists come out of each 12 ft board with 6 in to spare, and the two 6′ 0″ rims come from one 14 ft board with 24 in left (a 12 ft board would leave nothing for the saw kerf).
- Headers: the two 3′ 6″ door header pieces leave 12 in of an 8 ft 2×6, and the two 3′ 3″ window pieces leave 18 in.
- Fascia: both 6′ 8″ eave fascias come from one 14 ft 1×6 with 8 in left. Each 7′ 9 5/8″ rake fascia leaves 2 3/8 in of an 8 ft board.
- No spares: the counts have none built in. Add a couple of 2×4 x 8 ft if you expect to reject warped boards.
No board on this list is longer than 14 ft and most are 8 ft. The 12 and 14 ft boards and the 4×9 sheets still run long for a pickup bed, so ask the yard about delivery.
Tools you need
Plan on a circular saw, speed square, tape, chalk line, 4 ft level, framing hammer or nailer, drill driver, step ladder, safety glasses and a utility knife for felt and shingles. Have a helper for raising each wall, the 97 in front wall with its door header most of all.
Common mistakes
- Buying 4×8 siding for the front wall. The front wall is 97 1/8 in tall, just over 8 ft, so the front and the tall half of each side take 4×9 T1-11. Check that your yard stocks 4×9 before you order.
- Cutting both side walls from one list. The left and right walls use different stud lengths. Lay out each sloped plate on its own wall, then cut and number the studs wall by wall.
- Grabbing 7 ft boards for the rafters. A 6 ft deep shed sounds like 7 ft rafters, but with the slope and two 8 in overhangs each rafter needs 7′ 7 5/8″, so buy 8 ft stock.
- Single felt at 3/12. The generator doubles the felt below 4/12. Follow the low-slope instructions on the shingle wrapper, and check your local permit office for the underlayment rule in your area.
- Setting the low wall tight to a fence. All the roof water comes off the back edge, and you still need room to nail and paint the back siding. Leave a few feet of clear ground behind the shed.
- Hanging the door leaf out of square. The single leaf is about 38 1/2 in wide and skinned in T1-11, so it is heavy. Check it for square before you hang it, and run the Z brace up from the bottom hinge corner toward the latch side so it holds the leaf up.
- Untreated wood near the ground. Plain framing lumber under the floor rots; keep skids, rims and joists pressure treated. The USDA Wood Handbook explains why wet, untreated wood decays. Use hot-dip galvanized nails and screws rated for treated lumber.
Setbacks, tie-downs and whether a 36 sq ft shed needs a permit vary by town, so check your local permit office before you order. For the build steps, see how to build a lean-to shed, and for the base under the skids, shed foundation options. To turn the list into a budget, see how much it costs to build a shed. For other sizes, the shed material calculator runs the same generator, and the 8×10 lean-to material list shows the next size up.
Get the full plan
The 6×6 lean-to shed plan is a 3DSHEDPLANS PDF with 40+ steps, 3D images and its own printable material list for its 30 in door layout. Download the free 6×6 lean-to preview PDF to see the format before you buy.
If 36 sq ft is too tight, the 6×10 lean-to shed plan keeps the 6 ft depth with a 10 ft front, and the 4×8 lean-to shed plan is a shallower option for a narrow side yard. For a peaked roof, look at the 8×8 gable shed plan, or compare every size on the lean-to shed plans and shed plans pages.
Frequently asked questions
How many 2x4s do I need for a 6×6 lean-to shed?
51 2×4 framing boards for a 6×6 lean-to on skids: 46 at 8 ft, 2 at 12 ft and 3 at 14 ft. Add 8 2×4 x 12 ft temporary braces you reuse later. The floor takes 4 pressure-treated 2x6s and 3 pressure-treated 4×4 skids.
What size rafters does a 6×6 lean-to shed need?
2×4 rafters at 16 in on center, 6 of them plus 2 fly rafters, each cut from an 8 ft board to 7' 7 5/8". They span 65 in against a 98 in limit for SPF #2 at 30 psf ground snow. If you get more snow than that, check your local permit office.
How many sheets of plywood, OSB and T1-11 for a 6×6 lean-to shed?
2 sheets of 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood for the floor, 2 sheets of 7/16 in OSB for the roof, 9 sheets of 5/8 in T1-11 (four 4×9 and five 4×8, one of them for the door) and 1 sheet of 1/2 in plywood for the soffit and header fillers.
How many bundles of shingles does a 6×6 lean-to roof take?
2 bundles of 3-tab shingles, including the starter course, for a 3/12 roof with 8 in eaves and 4 in rakes. The list doubles the felt below 4/12, and one 400 sq ft roll of 15 lb felt covers it; follow the low-slope rules on the shingle wrapper.
Are free 6×6 shed plans with a material list available?
This page is a free material list for a 6×6 lean-to. The free 6×6 lean-to preview PDF shows the 3DSHEDPLANS plan format, and the paid 6×6 lean-to plan PDF has its own printable material list for its layout, which has a 30 in door and no window.