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An 8×10 lean-to shed material list on skids comes to 59 2×4 framing boards, 11 treated 2x6s and 3 treated 4×4 skids. Sheets: 3 floor plywood, 4 OSB and 12 T1-11, plus 4 shingle bundles. That assumes an 80 in back wall, a 103 1/8 in front wall and a 3/12 roof with 2×4 rafters.

Every number on this page comes from the 3DSHEDPLANS plan generator. It lays out each stud, rafter and sheet, checks that every sloped side stud meets the roof line, and counts what to buy by stock length. The run behind this page passed all 53 of the generator’s own layout checks. This list is for a freestanding shed, not one attached to a house.

What this 8×10 lean-to list assumes

The generator ran a shed 8 ft deep and 10 ft wide, with 80 sq ft of floor. The roof slopes front to back, so the 10 ft front wall with the door is the tall one. These are its settings:

  • Walls: the back (low) wall is 80 in tall and the front (high) wall is 103 1/8 in, both including the bottom plate and double top plate. Back studs are 6′ 3 1/2″ and front studs 8′ 2 5/8″.
  • Roof: 3/12 pitch (about 14 degrees), 2×4 rafters with a birdsmouth on both walls, 8 in overhangs front and back, 4 in rakes. The roof is 128 in long by about 115 in down the slope, roughly 103 sq ft.
  • Spacing: studs, floor joists and rafters at 16 in on center.
  • Floor: three pressure-treated 4×4 skids on a crushed stone pad, 2×6 joists across the 8 ft depth, 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood.
  • Loads: the 2×4 rafters span 89 in against a 98 in limit (SPF #2 at 16 in, 30 psf ground snow). If your ground snow load is over 30 psf, check your local permit office before you buy rafters.
  • Openings: a 60 in double door in the front wall and one 36 x 36 in window in the back wall.

Shopping list by stage: the full 8×10 lean-to shed material list

Lumber sizes are nominal. A 2×4 measures about 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in and a 2×6 about 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in, as the American Wood Council explains. Check the grade stamp on plywood and OSB; the APA trademark guide shows how to read it.

Floor

Item Qty Used for
Pressure-treated 4×4 x 10 ft 3 Skids
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 10 ft 2 Rim joists
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 8 ft 9 Floor joists
3/4 in T&G plywood, 4×8 sheet 3 Floor decking
Crushed stone 3/4 in, loose 1.8 cu yd Gravel pad
Deck screws 2 in (or 6d ring-shank nails) 3 lb Decking

Walls

Item Qty Used for
2×4 x 8 ft 22 Shorter side-wall studs, side-wall plates, sloped top plates, cripples, back sill, rafter blocking and lookout blocks
2×4 x 10 ft 19 Front wall studs, taller side-wall studs, front and back plates and cap plates
2×4 x 12 ft 1 Back window trimmers
2×4 x 14 ft 6 Back wall studs (two per board), front door trimmers
2×8 x 12 ft 1 Door header
2×6 x 8 ft 1 Window header
Strap ties (twist straps) 4 One per corner, where a sloped side plate meets the front or back wall
Temporary braces 2×4 x 12 ft 8 Wall bracing, reused later
2×4 stakes, 24 in 8 Brace stakes, cut from offcuts (not a separate buy)

The two header filler strips of 1/2 in plywood are ripped from the soffit sheet, so buy that sheet with the wall lumber. With the 11 rafter boards below and the 8 braces, the truck carries 67 2x4s in all.

Roof

Item Qty Used for
2×4 x 10 ft 11 9 rafters and 2 fly rafters
Hurricane ties, H2.5A type or equal 18 Rafter to plate, both walls
7/16 in OSB, 4×8 sheet 4 Roof sheathing
15 lb felt, 400 sq ft roll 1 Underlayment, laid double below 4/12
3-tab shingles, 26 per bundle 4 bundles Roof and starter course
Drip edge, 10 ft 5 Eaves and rakes
Roofing nails 1 1/4 in galvanized 5 lb Shingles
Roofing cap nails 1 in 1 lb Felt
Roofing cement, 10 oz tube 2 Roofing

Siding and trim

Item Qty Used for
5/8 in T1-11, 4×9 sheet 3 Front (high) wall
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet 3 Back (low) wall
5/8 in T1-11, 4×9 / 4×8 sheet 2 / 2 Sloped side walls
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet 2 Door leaves (one per leaf)
1/2 in plywood, 4×8 sheet 1 Eave soffit and header fillers
1×6 x 12 ft 2 Eave fascia
1×6 x 10 ft 2 Rake fascia
1×4 x 14 ft 6 Back corner trim, door casing sides, stiles, Z braces
1×4 x 12 ft 1 Door rails
1×4 x 10 ft 4 Front corner trim
1×4 x 8 ft 3 Door head casing, window casing
1×2 x 8 ft 2 Door stop and astragal
Drip cap, 10 ft 1 Over the door and window head casings
Insect screen, 2 ft x 25 ft 1 roll Gaps at the eaves and soffit
Exterior paint and primer in one 4 gal Two coats, about 413 sq ft each
Exterior caulk 3 tubes Trim

Hardware and window

Item Qty
Framing nails 3 1/2 in (16d), hot-dip galvanized 18 lb
Siding nails 2 1/2 in (8d), hot-dip galvanized 10 lb
Sheathing nails 2 1/2 in (8d) for OSB 5 lb
Connector nails 1 1/2 in for ties and straps 2 lb
Construction adhesive, 10 oz tube 3
T-strap door hinges 6
Door handle and latch set 1
Barrel bolts for the fixed leaf 2
Exterior screws 1 1/4 in (door frame to T1-11) 1 lb
Exterior screws 2 1/2 in (hinge straps into framing) 1 box
Prefabricated window, 36 x 36 in rough opening 1
Flashing tape 4 in 1 roll
Wood shims 1 bundle

Cut list highlights

Most of the 8×10 lean-to cut list is square cuts: 9 front studs at 8′ 2 5/8″, 10 back studs at 6′ 3 1/2″, 9 floor joists at 7′ 9″ and three skids at 10′ 0″. The parts below have angled cuts or many different lengths, so cut one, test it on your own frame, then cut the rest.

Part Lumber Cut length Qty
Rafter (board length) 2×4 9′ 8 3/8″ 9
Fly rafter (rake) 2×4 9′ 8 3/8″ 2
Side wall sloped top plate 2×4 7′ 7 3/4″ 2
Side wall bottom plate 2×4 7′ 4 7/8″ 2
Side wall studs 2×4 6′ 5 3/8″ to 8′ 3 1/4″ 7 per wall, two of each length
Door header (2×8 doubled + 1/2 ply) 2×8 5′ 3″ 2
Door trimmer 2×4 6′ 4 1/2″ 2
Cripple over the door 2×4 1′ 2 7/8″ 4
Window header (2×6 doubled + 1/2 ply) 2×6 3′ 3″ 2
Window trimmer 2×4 5′ 10″ 2
Blocking between rafters 2×4 5 3/4″, 1′ 1 3/4″ and 1′ 2 1/2″ 2, 2 and 12
Lookout block (rake overhang) 2×4 2 1/2″ 12
Eave fascia 1×6 10′ 8″ 2
Rake fascia (tip to tip) 1×6 9′ 10 3/8″ 2

Rafters. The 9′ 8 3/8″ figure is the board each rafter needs, measured corner to corner. Along the top edge it is about 9′ 7 1/2″, including both 8 in overhangs. Plumb cuts are at about 14 degrees (3/12).

Each rafter gets two birdsmouths, one on each wall. The seat is 3 1/2 in and the notch cuts under 1 in into the 3 1/2 in deep 2×4, about a quarter of its depth. Cut one pattern rafter, test it on both walls, then trace the other 8. The 2 fly rafters sit on the lookout blocks and get no birdsmouth.

Side wall studs. Each side wall has 7 studs under a sloped top plate, and both walls use the same seven lengths: 6′ 5 3/8″, 6′ 8 1/4″, 7′ 0 1/4″, 7′ 4 1/4″, 7′ 8 1/4″, 8′ 0 1/4″ and 8′ 3 1/4″. The steps are 4 in except at the ends (2 7/8 in at the low end, 3 in at the high end). Every length is the long point, from the top of the bottom plate to the underside of the sloped plate.

Cut two of each length and mark every stud with its wall and position as you go. Cut the top of each stud at the roof angle (3 on a speed square, about 14 degrees). The two tallest lengths are over 8 ft, so those four studs come from 10 ft boards.

Headers. The 60 in door gets a doubled 2×8 header with a 1/2 in plywood filler on 6′ 4 1/2″ trimmers, with four 1′ 2 7/8″ cripples above it. The back window header is a doubled 2×6 on 5′ 10″ trimmers, and it fills the space right up to the plates, so there are no cripples above it. Below the window go a 3′ 0″ sill and two 2′ 8 1/2″ cripples.

Plates. The front and back plates and cap plates run the full 10′ 0″. The side walls have a single sloped top plate, 7′ 7 3/4″, that runs between them, and the 4 twist straps tie the lean-to wall corners together.

Gable vs lean-to: what changes

The same 8×10 footprint run as a gable at 6/12 (94 1/2 in walls, ridge along the 10 ft side) keeps the floor and changes almost everything above it. Our 8×10 shed material list covers the gable version in full.

Item Lean-to (3/12) Gable (6/12)
Rafters 9 2×4 at 9′ 8 3/8″ + 2 fly 18 2×4 at 5′ 3 1/2″ + 4 fly
Ridge board None 2×6, cut 10′ 8″
Rafter ties and collar ties None (no ridge, no outward thrust) 7 rafter ties + 4 collar ties
Wall studs 8′ 2 5/8″ front, 6′ 3 1/2″ back, stepped sides 7′ 6″ on all four walls
2×4 framing boards (plus 8 braces in both) 59 77
2×6 boards (not treated) 1 2
T1-11 sheets 12: five 4×9, seven 4×8 13, all 4×8
Roof OSB sheets 4 4
Shingle bundles 4 5
Felt 1 roll, laid double 1 roll, single
Framing nails 18 lb 25 lb
Extra hardware 4 twist straps 2 Z-flashing (wall to gable siding)
Floor (skids, joists, decking) 3, 9, 3 sheets 3, 9, 3 sheets

The lean-to saves 18 2x4s, a ridge board and the gable triangles, but 5 of its 12 siding sheets are 4×9 and the felt goes on double. For the wider trade-offs, see lean-to shed pros and cons.

Where the waste goes

Buying by stock length means every cut leaves an offcut. Here is where the scraps on an 8×10 lean-to come from:

  • Rafters: 9′ 8 3/8″ from a 10 ft 2×4 leaves only about 3 1/2 in. Pick straight boards with square, uncracked ends, and buy one spare if your yard’s stock is rough.
  • Back studs: two 6′ 3 1/2″ studs come out of each 14 ft 2×4, leaving about 17 in. The two door trimmers pair up in one more 14 ft board.
  • Front studs: 8′ 2 5/8″ from a 10 ft board leaves about 21 in each. That is just short of a 24 in brace stake, but the 21 to 23 in scraps from the front and tallest side studs drive in fine as stakes. Buy two extra 2×4 x 8 ft only if you want the full 24 in.
  • Side studs: the five shorter lengths come from 8 ft boards and the two tallest from 10 ft boards, so the offcuts run from about 4 in to about 2 ft.
  • Floor joists: 7′ 9″ from an 8 ft board leaves 3 in for squaring the ends.
  • Headers: the two 5′ 3″ door header pieces leave about 18 in of the 12 ft 2×8; the two 3′ 3″ window header pieces leave about 18 in of the 8 ft 2×6.
  • Fascia: each 10′ 8″ eave fascia leaves about 16 in of a 12 ft 1×6. Each 9′ 10 3/8″ rake fascia leaves under 2 in of a 10 ft board, so it needs a straight board with clean ends.
  • No spares: counts have no spares built in. Add a few 2×4 x 8 ft if you expect to reject warped or split boards.

No board on this list is longer than 14 ft. A 14 ft board still hangs well past a pickup bed, so flag the overhang or ask the yard to deliver.

Tools you need

A circular saw, speed square, tape, chalk line, 4 ft level, framing hammer or nailer, drill driver and a utility knife for felt and shingles cover the whole job. A helper or two cover the lifting.

Common mistakes

  • Buying 4×8 siding for the front wall. The front wall is 103 1/8 in tall, over 8 ft, so the front and part of each side take 4×9 T1-11 sheets. Check that your yard stocks them before you order.
  • Spacing the rafters at 24 in. Some 8×10 lean-to plans space rafters 24 in apart. The 2×4 rafters here were checked at 16 in on center, and the allowed span gets shorter at wider spacing, so keep 16 in or check your local permit office.
  • Measuring side studs off the wrong end. Both side walls step down from front to back, so lay out each sloped plate first, then cut and number the studs wall by wall.
  • Single felt at 3/12. The generator doubles the felt from 2/12 up to 4/12. Read the minimum slope on the shingle wrapper, and check your local permit office for the underlayment rule in your area.
  • Raising the front wall with two people. The 10 ft front wall with 8′ 2 5/8″ studs and the door header is the heaviest piece. Plan on three people to stand it up and brace it.
  • Setting the low wall tight to a fence. All the roof water comes off the back edge, and you still need room to nail and paint the back siding. Leave a few feet of clear ground behind the shed.
  • Untreated wood near the ground. Skids, rims and joists are pressure treated; plain framing lumber there rots. The USDA Wood Handbook explains why wet, untreated wood decays. Use hot-dip galvanized nails and treated-lumber rated screws in treated wood.

Setbacks, tie-downs and whether an 80 sq ft shed needs a permit vary by town, so check your local permit office before you order. For the build steps, see how to build a lean-to shed, and for the base under the skids, shed foundation options. For other sizes, try the shed material calculator, or compare the bigger 10×12 lean-to material list.

Get the full plan

We do not sell an 8×10 lean-to plan yet. If you want a printed set with every step, the 8×10 gable shed plan and the 10×8 gable shed plan are 3DSHEDPLANS PDFs for the same 80 sq ft, each with 3D drawings, cut details and its own printable material list.

For a single-slope roof, the 6×10 lean-to shed plan has the same 10 ft wide front with a double door, and the 8×16 lean-to shed plan is the same depth stretched to 16 ft. Download the free 6×10 lean-to preview PDF to see the format, or compare every size on the lean-to shed plans and shed plans pages.

Frequently asked questions

How much lumber do I need for an 8×10 lean-to shed?

For an 8×10 lean-to on skids with an 80 in back wall and a 3/12 roof, our generator lists 59 2×4 framing boards (11 of them 10 ft rafter stock), 11 pressure-treated 2x6s, 3 pressure-treated 4×4 skids, one 2×6 and one 2×8 for the headers, plus 8 2×4 x 12 ft braces you reuse later.

What size rafters does an 8×10 lean-to shed need?

The generator picks 2×4 rafters at 16 in on center, cut from 10 ft boards to 9' 8 3/8". They span 89 in against a 98 in limit for SPF #2 at 30 psf ground snow. If you get more snow than that, or want 24 in spacing, check your local permit office.

How many sheets of plywood, OSB and T1-11 for an 8×10 lean-to shed?

3 sheets of 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood for the floor, 4 sheets of 7/16 in OSB for the roof, 12 sheets of 5/8 in T1-11 (five 4×9 and seven 4×8) and 1 sheet of 1/2 in plywood for the soffit and header fillers.

How many bundles of shingles does an 8×10 lean-to roof take?

4 bundles of 3-tab shingles, including the starter course, for a 3/12 roof of about 103 sq ft with 8 in eaves and 4 in rakes. At 3/12 the felt goes on in a double layer, and one 400 sq ft roll covers it.

Is there an 8×10 lean-to shed plans materials list PDF?

We do not sell an 8×10 lean-to plan yet, so this page is the list. The 3DSHEDPLANS 8×10 gable plan PDF has its own printable material list, and our lean-to plans in other sizes each include one too.

Shed building guides