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This 6×8 shed material list is for a gable shed on skids. The main items are 67 framing 2x4s, 6 treated 2x6s, 3 treated 4x4s, 2 sheets of 3/4 in plywood, 4 of OSB, 10 of T1-11 and 4 shingle bundles. It assumes 94 1/2 in walls, a 6/12 roof and 16 in spacing.

Every quantity and cut length here comes from the 3DSHEDPLANS plan generator, which models each stud, rafter and sheet in 3D and then checks the build for rafter span, header depth and sheet coverage. It is a shopping aid, not a stamped engineering drawing. The list covers one single door in a 39 in wide rough opening, with a shop-built T1-11 leaf, and one window with a 36 x 36 in rough opening.

What this 6×8 shed material list assumes

The generator ran a shed 6 ft deep and 8 ft wide, 48 sq ft of floor. The ridge runs the 8 ft length, the rafters span the 6 ft depth, and the door sits in the 8 ft front wall. These are its settings:

  • Walls: 94 1/2 in tall including the bottom plate and double top plate, so wall studs are cut to 90 in (7′ 6″).
  • Spacing: studs, floor joists and rafters all at 16 in on center.
  • Roof: 6/12 pitch, 2×4 rafters, a 2×6 ridge board, 8 in eave overhang and 4 in rake overhang. The roof works out to about 70 sq ft.
  • Floor: three pressure-treated 4×4 skids, about 34 in apart, under 2×6 joists cut to 5′ 9″ and 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood. The skids sit on a crushed stone pad 10 x 8 ft and 4 in deep, 12 in wider than the shed on every side.
  • Loads: the 2×4 rafters pass a span table check at 30 psf ground snow (SPF #2 at 16 in, 36 in run). That is the generator’s design assumption; if your snow load may be higher, check your local permit office before you buy rafter stock.
  • Openings: a 39 in wide single door on 76 1/2 in trimmers in the front wall, and one 36 x 36 in window in the back wall.

Our 8×6 gable shed plan has the same 48 sq ft of floor but a different build: 76 1/2 in walls and a 27 x 68 in door. Its printable list is built for that layout, so if you buy the plan, shop from the plan’s list.

Shopping list by stage

Lumber sizes are nominal, and the span check assumes SPF #2 or better framing lumber. A 2×4 measures about 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in, as the American Wood Council explains. Check the grade stamp on plywood and OSB; the APA trademark guide shows how to read it.

Totals at a glance

Material Total
2×4 framing boards, all lengths 67
2×4 x 8 ft for floor seam blocks 1
2×4 x 12 ft for temporary braces 8
All 2x4s for the yard trip 76
Pressure-treated 2×6 (2 rims at 8 ft, 4 joist boards at 12 ft) 6
Pressure-treated 4×4 x 8 ft (skids) 3
2×6 (2 header boards, 1 ridge) 3
3/4 in T&G plywood sheets (floor) 2
7/16 in OSB sheets (roof) 4
5/8 in T1-11 sheets (walls, gable, door leaf) 10
1/2 in plywood sheet (soffit, header fillers) 1
3-tab shingle bundles 4

Framing at 24 in on center would use fewer studs. This count frames studs, joists and rafters at 16 in, puts a rafter tie on every interior rafter pair and frames a full window opening.

Floor

Item Qty Used for
Pressure-treated 4×4 x 8 ft, tagged for ground contact 3 Skids, full length
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 8 ft 2 Rim joists at 8′ 0″
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 12 ft 4 7 floor joists cut to 5′ 9″, two from each board
3/4 in T&G plywood, 4×8 sheet 2 Floor decking (48 sq ft)
2×4 x 8 ft 1 Flat blocks under the decking seam
Crushed stone 3/4 in, loose 1.2 cu yd Gravel pad, measured loose before tamping
Deck screws 2 in (or 6d ring-shank nails), rated for treated lumber 3 lb Decking

Walls and roof framing

Item Qty Used for
2×4 x 8 ft 52 28 wall studs, plates, cap plates, cripples, the window sill, 5 rafter ties, collar ties, gable studs, lookout and frieze blocks
2×4 x 10 ft 11 14 rafters and 4 fly rafters (two from each board), lower window cripples, frieze blocks
2×4 x 12 ft 2 Side wall plates
2×4 x 14 ft 2 Door and window trimmers
2×6 x 8 ft 2 Door and window headers
2×6 x 10 ft 1 Ridge board
Hurricane ties, H2.5A type or equal 14 Rafter to plate
2×4 x 12 ft, temporary 8 Wall braces, reused later; cut the 8 stakes from offcuts

The two header filler strips of 1/2 in plywood are ripped from the soffit sheet, so buy that sheet with the wall lumber.

Roof covering

Item Qty Used for
7/16 in OSB, 4×8 sheet 4 Roof sheathing
15 lb felt, 400 sq ft roll 1 Underlayment
3-tab shingles, 26 per bundle 4 bundles Roof, starter course and ridge cap
Drip edge, 10 ft 4 Eaves and rakes
Roofing nails 1 1/4 in galvanized 5 lb Shingles
Roofing cap nails 1 in 1 lb Felt
Roofing cement, 10 oz tube 2 Sealing exposed nail heads and flashing laps
Insect screen, 2 ft x 25 ft 1 roll Vent gaps under the gable rafters and at the eaves

Siding and trim

Item Qty Used for
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet 8 Walls (224 sq ft, before the door and window cut-outs)
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet 1 Both gable triangles, cut as strips
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet 1 Door leaf
1/2 in plywood, 4×8 sheet 1 Eave soffit and header fillers
Z-flashing, 10 ft 2 Wall siding to gable siding joint
Drip cap, 10 ft 1 Over the door and window head casings
1×6 x 10 ft 4 2 eave fascia boards, and 2 boards that each give two rake fascia pieces
1×4 x 16 ft 2 Corner trim on the eave walls
1×4 x 14 ft 2 Door casing sides and door stiles
1×4 x 10 ft 1 Door rails
1×4 x 8 ft 8 Gable-wall corner trim, door head casing, window casings, door Z braces
1×2 x 8 ft 2 Door stops
Exterior paint and primer in one 3 gal Two coats of about 339 sq ft each, sized at 300 sq ft a gallon plus 10 percent; check the rough-surface coverage on the can and round up
Exterior caulk 3 tubes Trim

Hardware and window

Item Qty
Framing nails 3 1/2 in (16d), hot-dip galvanized (about 751 nails plus 10 percent) 21 lb
Siding nails 2 1/2 in (8d), hot-dip galvanized 10 lb
Sheathing nails 2 1/2 in (8d) for OSB 5 lb
Connector nails 1 1/2 in for the hurricane ties 2 lb
Construction adhesive, 10 oz tube 3
T-strap door hinges 3
Door handle and latch set 1
Exterior screws 1 1/4 in (door frame to T1-11) 1 lb
Exterior screws 2 1/2 in (hinge straps into framing) 1 box
Prefabricated window, 36 x 36 in rough opening 1
Flashing tape 4 in 1 roll
Wood shims for the door and window 1 bundle

Cut list highlights

Most of the 6×8 cut list is square cuts: 28 wall studs at 7′ 6″, 7 floor joists at 5′ 9″ and three 8′ 0″ skids. The parts below need angle cuts or come in several lengths.

Part Lumber Cut length Qty
Rafter (board length, see below) 2×4 4′ 2 1/8″ 14
Fly rafter (rake) 2×4 4′ 2 1/8″ 4
Ridge board 2×6 8′ 8″ 1
Rafter tie (interior pairs, at the plates) 2×4 6′ 0″ 5
Collar tie 2×4 2′ 4 1/2″ 3
Lookout block (rake overhang) 2×4 2 1/2″ 12
Frieze block (over the eave walls, top beveled) 2×4 1′ 1″ (8), 1′ 0 1/4″ and 1′ 1 3/4″ (2 each) 12
Door header (2×6 doubled + 1/2 ply) 2×6 3′ 6″ 2
Door trimmer 2×4 6′ 4 1/2″ 2
Window header (2×6 doubled + 1/2 ply) 2×6 3′ 3″ 2
Window trimmer 2×4 6′ 1″ 2
Center gable stud (under the ridge) 2×4 1′ 2 3/4″ 2
Gable end studs 2×4 7 1/8″, 11 1/8″ and 1′ 3 1/8″ 2 each
Side wall plates 2×4 5′ 4 7/8″ 4
Side wall cap plates 2×4 6′ 0″ 2
Front and back cap plates 2×4 7′ 5″ 2
Front and back wall plates 2×4 8′ 0″ 4

Rafters. The 4′ 2 1/8″ figure is the overall length of board each rafter needs, from the tip of the ridge plumb cut to the far tip of the tail plumb cut, including the 8 in eave overhang. Do not measure it along the top edge; lay out the cuts with the speed square on a pattern rafter. Two of them come out of each 10 ft 2×4, with about 19 1/2 in left after the kerfs, so the 18 rafters and fly rafters take 9 boards.

Mark the plumb cuts with a speed square pivoted to 6 on the common scale (26.6 degrees). Lay out a 2 1/2 in level seat; the notch is then about 1 1/8 in deep measured square to the rafter edge, under one third of the rafter depth. Cut one pattern rafter, test it at both ends of the ridge, then trace the other 13. The 4 fly rafters hang off the lookout blocks and the ridge extension, so they get the ridge plumb cut but no birdsmouth.

Ridge. The ridge is one 2×6 cut to 8′ 8″, running 4 in past each gable wall to carry the fly rafters. A 10 ft board leaves 16 in. The 2×6 is deeper than the 3.9 in plumb cut on a 2×4 rafter, so the whole plumb cut lands against the ridge face.

Headers. The 39 in door opening gets a doubled 2×6 header with a 1/2 in plywood filler, on trimmers cut to 6′ 4 1/2″, with three 8 in cripples above it. The bottom plate is cut out of the doorway after the wall is up. The window gets a doubled 2×6 header on 6′ 1″ trimmers, three 11 1/2″ cripples above, a 3′ 0″ sill and three 2′ 11 1/2″ cripples below, for a rough sill 37 in above the bottom plate.

Gable studs. Each 6 ft gable has one 1′ 2 3/4″ center stud under the ridge plus three end studs, one each at 7 1/8″, 11 1/8″ and 1′ 3 1/8″. At 6/12 the roof rises 1/2 in for every inch you move toward the ridge, so each stud’s length depends on where the 16 in layout puts it. Measure each one off your actual end rafter before cutting.

Plates. The side walls have 5′ 4 7/8″ bottom and top plates, 1/8 in short of the gap between the front and back walls so a framed side wall drops in without a sledge. Their 6′ 0″ cap plates lap over the front and back walls to lock the corners, and the front and back cap plates are cut 7 in short to 7′ 5″.

Siding at the rim. On the front and back walls the T1-11 laps the rim joist by 2 7/16 in and is nailed into it. On the side walls it laps the end joists by only 3/4 in, too little to nail into, so nail it into the bottom plate instead. Run flashing tape or a bead of caulk over the plate-to-floor seam on those walls before the siding goes on.

Gable vs lean-to: what changes

We ran the same 6×8 footprint as a lean-to (single-slope) roof at 3/12, with an 80 in low back wall, the same 39 in door in the high front wall and the window in the back wall. We do not sell a 6×8 lean-to plan yet, so these numbers are for comparison only; that run passed all 56 of its checks. The skids, joists and decking stay the same; the studs, rafters and siding change.

Item Gable (6/12) Lean-to (3/12)
Rafters 14 2×4 at 4′ 2 1/8″ + 4 fly 7 2×4 at 7′ 7 5/8″ + 2 fly
Ridge board 2×6, 8′ 8″ None
Wall studs 7′ 6″ on all four walls 7′ 8 5/8″ front, 6′ 3 1/2″ back, six lengths on each side
2×4 framing boards bought 67 50
2×6 boards bought (not treated) 3 2
T1-11 sheets 10, all 4×8 9: four 4×9, five 4×8
Roof OSB sheets 4 3
Shingle bundles 4 3
Felt 1 roll 1 roll, laid double below 4/12
Fascia boards 1×6: 4 at 10 ft 1×6: 2 at 10 ft, 2 at 8 ft
Framing nails 21 lb 16 lb
Extra hardware 2 Z-flashing 4 twist straps at the wall corners
Paint 3 gal (2 coats of about 339 sq ft) 3 gal (2 coats of about 309 sq ft)
Floor 3 skids, 7 joists, 2 sheets 3 skids, 7 joists, 2 sheets

On a 6 ft deep lean-to the 2×4 rafters have room to spare: the generator checks a 65 in span against a 98 in limit for 2×4 at 30 psf. Each side wall has 6 studs stepping from 6′ 5 3/8″ to 7′ 9 1/4″ under a 5′ 7″ sloped top plate, so lay them out on the deck before cutting. The high front wall’s 7′ 8 5/8″ studs match the 92 5/8 in precut stud sold at many yards, so you can buy 8 precuts in place of 8 of the 2×4 x 8 ft and skip those cuts.

The high front wall and part of each side wall take 4×9 siding sheets, which some yards have to order. At 3/12, read the minimum slope on the shingle wrapper and follow the maker’s low-slope instructions. For more on single-slope builds, see how to build a lean-to shed, the 6×6 lean-to shed plan, the 6×10 lean-to shed plan and our gable vs lean-to vs hip roof comparison.

Where the waste goes

  • Wall studs: 90 in studs leave about 6 in from each 8 ft board. Precut 92 5/8 in studs also work; trim 2 5/8 in off each.
  • Floor joists: two 5′ 9″ joists from each 12 ft board leave about 6 in. The four boards give eight joist lengths for seven joists, so one 12 ft board leaves a piece about 6 ft long, enough to replace a split joist.
  • Floor decking: two sheets give 64 sq ft for a 48 sq ft floor, so one sheet is ripped and about 16 sq ft is left over. Many T&G panels cover about 47 1/2 in net, not 48, so measure what the first sheet leaves (about 24 1/2 in across a 72 in floor) before you rip the second. The one 2×4 x 8 ft on the list is cut into flat blocks under any seam that falls between joists.
  • Rafters: two 50 1/8 in rafters from a 10 ft board leave about 19 1/2 in, so a mis-cut rafter means a new board.
  • Rafter ties: the five 6′ 0″ ties come from 8 ft boards, leaving about 2 ft each. Cut 5 of the 8 brace stakes (just under 24 in after the saw kerf) from these and the other 3 from any 2×4 offcut at least 24 in long.
  • No trim room: the skids, rim joists and front and back wall plates are all 8′ 0″, a whole 8 ft board. Check at the yard that the factory ends are square.
  • Fascia and ridge: each 8′ 8″ eave fascia and the ridge leave 16 in from a 10 ft board. Each rake fascia board gives two 4′ 2″ pieces with about 19 1/2 in left.
  • Sheets: 8 wall sheets cover the 224 sq ft of wall with little to spare, so buy one spare T1-11 sheet if a damaged sheet would mean a long trip back to the yard.
  • Hauling: the 14 and 16 ft boards and the 4×9 lean-to sheets will not fit most cars, so plan on yard delivery or a trailer for those.
  • No spares: the counts include nothing for rejects. Sight down each board’s edge at the yard, skip bowed or twisted ones, and add a few 2×4 x 8 ft if you expect to cull some.

Tools and crew for a 6×8 build

  • Circular saw, speed square and framing square for 28 stud cuts and 18 rafters; cut the 2 1/2 in lookout blocks from a long clamped stick with a stop block, never as loose scraps
  • Table saw or a circular saw with a straightedge guide for the floor rip and the 1/2 in soffit strips
  • Framing hammer or framing nailer, and a drill/driver for the screws
  • 4 ft level and a 25 ft tape for checking that the floor diagonals match
  • A hand tamper or a rented plate compactor for 1.2 cu yd of gravel, laid in thin layers
  • A 6 ft stepladder set on the deck for the ridge and fly rafters; never stand on the ladder’s top cap or on the wall plates
  • A crew: the generator plans for one helper on most steps and 2 helpers (3 people) to raise the back wall

Common mistakes

  • Mixing up this list and the plan’s list. Our 8×6 plan has 76 1/2 in walls and a 27 in door; this list is for 94 1/2 in walls and a 39 in door. Stud, trimmer, siding and door sizes all change between the two.
  • Forgetting the door sheet. The siding cut out of the doorway is 76 1/2 in tall, shorter than the 77 1/4 in door leaf, so the leaf needs its own new T1-11 sheet.
  • Skipping rafter ties. A ridge board is not a beam. The 5 rafter ties at the plates stop the walls from spreading; the 3 collar ties higher up do not replace them.
  • Buying 6 ft joist stock. Many yards do not stock 6 ft treated 2×6, and a 12 ft board gives two 5′ 9″ joists with about 6 in left. The list buys 12 ft boards for that reason.
  • Swapping materials without recounting. This list is for 3-tab shingles and T1-11. Architectural shingles, metal roofing or lap siding cover differently, so recount from the coverage printed on the bundle or the maker’s install guide.
  • Untreated wood near the ground. Skids, rims and joists are pressure treated; plain framing lumber there rots. Use ground-contact rated wood for the skids, and consider it for the rims and joists too, since they sit a few inches above the gravel and are hard to replace once the deck is on. Use hot-dip galvanized nails and treated-lumber rated screws in treated wood. The USDA Wood Handbook covers why wet, untreated wood decays.

Many towns set floor-area and height limits for sheds that need no permit. The roof peak of this shed sits well above its 94 1/2 in walls, so ask how your town measures height, and whether a skid shed needs ground anchors in your area: check your local permit office before you order. Our shed permit checklist lists what to ask.

For the base under the skids, including concrete blocks instead of a gravel pad, see shed foundation options. Weighing a kit or a prebuilt 6×8 instead? Read build or buy a shed. To compare 2×4 counts across sizes, see how many 2x4s to build a shed, and for other sizes try the shed material calculator.

Get the full plan

The 8×6 gable shed plan is a 3DSHEDPLANS PDF for this 48 sq ft footprint with 40+ steps, 3D images and its own printable material list for its 27 x 68 in door. For a little less or more room, see the 6×4 gable shed plan and the 8×8 gable shed plan, and compare the 8×8 shed material list.

Want to see the format first? Download the free 8×6 gable shed plan preview PDF. Not sure 48 sq ft is enough? Read what size shed do I need, see every gable shed plan or browse every size on the shed plans page.

Frequently asked questions

How many 2x4s do I need to build a 6×8 shed?

67 for the framing of a 6×8 gable shed with a 39 inch door and one window: 52 at 8 ft, 11 at 10 ft, 2 at 12 ft and 2 at 14 ft. Add one 2×4 x 8 ft for floor seam blocks and 8 2×4 x 12 ft for temporary braces, 76 in all.

How many sheets of plywood, OSB and siding for a 6×8 shed?

2 sheets of 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood for the floor, 4 sheets of 7/16 in OSB for the roof, 10 sheets of 5/8 in T1-11 (8 walls, 1 gable, 1 door leaf) and 1 sheet of 1/2 in plywood for the soffit and header fillers.

How many bundles of shingles for a 6×8 shed roof?

4 bundles of 3-tab shingles for a 6×8 gable roof at 6/12, which is about 70 sq ft with an 8 in eave and 4 in rake overhang. That count covers the roof plus at least 10 percent, the starter course and the ridge cap. A 3/12 lean-to roof on the same floor takes 3 bundles.

What lumber do I need for a 6×8 shed floor?

Three pressure-treated 4×4 x 8 ft skids, two pressure-treated 2×6 x 8 ft rims, four pressure-treated 2×6 x 12 ft cut into seven 5' 9" joists, and two sheets of 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood, set on a crushed stone pad.

Is there a 6×8 shed plan with a materials list?

This page is a free 6×8 materials list with cut lengths for a gable shed on skids. The 3DSHEDPLANS 8×6 gable shed plan PDF covers the same 48 sq ft with 76 1/2 in walls and a 27 in door, so it has its own printable list and a free preview PDF.

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