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A 10×16 shed material list for a gable shed on skids is 114 2x4s (104 for framing, 10 for blocks and braces), 13 treated 2×6 joists, 4 skids, 5 sheets of 3/4 in plywood, 9 of OSB, 18 of T1-11 and 9 shingle bundles. It assumes 94 1/2 in walls, a 6/12 roof, 16 in spacing.

Every quantity and cut length on this page comes from the 3DSHEDPLANS plan generator, and this 10×16 build passed all 56 checks of our framing audit. The list below is for one 60 x 76 1/2 in door opening and one window.

What this 10×16 list assumes

The generator ran a shed 10 ft deep and 16 ft wide, with 160 sq ft of floor and the ridge running the 16 ft way. These are its settings:

  • Walls: 94 1/2 in tall including the bottom plate and double top plate, so wall studs are cut to 90 in (7′ 6″).
  • Spacing: studs, floor joists and rafters all at 16 in on center.
  • Roof: 6/12 pitch, 2×4 rafters, a 2×6 ridge board, 8 in eave overhang and 4 in rake overhang. The roof works out to about 209 sq ft.
  • Floor: four pressure-treated 4×4 skids 16 ft long, about 39 in apart, on a crushed stone pad, with 2×6 joists cut to 9′ 9″ at 16 in on center and 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood.
  • Loads: the 2×4 rafters pass a span table check at 30 psf ground snow (SPF #2 at 16 in, 60 in run). That is the generator’s design assumption; if your area’s snow load may be higher, check your local permit office before you buy rafter stock.
  • Openings: a 60 in wide double door (76 1/2 in rough opening height) in the 16 ft front wall and a 36 x 36 in window in one of the 10 ft gable walls. The back wall has no openings.

Our 10×16 gable shed plan uses the same footprint with a 78 in wide by 82 in tall double door and two windows, so its header, trimmers, door leaves and stud count differ. Shop for that version from the plan’s own printable list.

Shopping list by stage: the full 10×16 shed material list

Lumber sizes are nominal. A 2×4 measures about 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in, as the American Wood Council explains. Check the grade stamp on plywood and OSB; the APA trademark guide shows how to read it.

Totals at a glance

Material Total
2×4 boards, all lengths (framing, seam blocks, braces) 114
Pressure-treated 2×6 (13 joists, 2 rims) 15
Pressure-treated 4×4 x 16 ft skids 4
2×6 (ridge, window header) and 2×8 (door header) 3 and 1
3/4 in plywood / 7/16 in OSB / 5/8 in T1-11 / 1/2 in plywood 5 / 9 / 18 / 2 sheets
3-tab shingle bundles 9

Floor

Item Qty Used for
Pressure-treated 4×4 x 16 ft, tagged for ground contact 4 Skids
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 10 ft 13 Floor joists
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 16 ft 2 Rim joists
3/4 in T&G plywood, 4×8 sheet 5 Floor decking
2×4 x 8 ft 2 Flat seam blocks under the decking
Crushed stone 3/4 in, loose 3.2 cu yd Gravel pad, measured loose before tamping
Deck screws 2 in (or 6d ring-shank nails), rated for treated lumber 4 lb Decking

Walls and roof framing

Item Qty Used for
2×4 x 8 ft 64 Wall studs, cripples, window sill, gable studs, collar ties, lookout and frieze blocks
2×4 x 10 ft 6 Side wall plates and cap plates
2×4 x 12 ft 11 Rafter ties
2×4 x 14 ft 17 Rafters, fly rafters, door and window trimmers
2×4 x 16 ft 6 Front and back wall plates and cap plates
2×6 x 8 ft 1 Window header
2×8 x 12 ft 1 Door header
2×6 x 10 ft 2 Ridge board (two pieces)
Hurricane ties, H2.5A type or equal 26 Rafter to plate
Temporary braces 2×4 x 12 ft 8 Wall bracing, reused later

The two header filler strips of 1/2 in plywood are ripped from a soffit sheet, so buy those sheets with the wall lumber. Add the 2 seam blocks and 8 temporary braces to the 104 framing boards and the truck carries 114 2x4s in all.

Roof covering

Item Qty Used for
7/16 in OSB, 4×8 sheet 9 Roof sheathing
15 lb felt, 400 sq ft roll 1 Underlayment
3-tab shingles, 26 per bundle 9 bundles Roof, starter course and ridge cap
Drip edge, 10 ft 7 Eaves and rakes
Roofing nails 1 1/4 in galvanized 7 lb Shingles
Roofing cap nails 1 in 2 lb Felt
Roofing cement, 10 oz tube 2 Roofing
Louvered gable vent, 8 x 12 in 2 One in each gable
Insect screen, 2 ft x 25 ft 1 roll Vent holes and gaps at the eaves

Siding and trim

Item Qty Used for
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet 14 Walls
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet 2 Gable triangles
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet 2 Door leaves (one per leaf)
1/2 in plywood, 4×8 sheet 2 Eave soffit and header fillers
Z-flashing, 10 ft 2 Wall siding to gable siding joint
Drip cap, 10 ft 1 Over the door and window head casings
1×6 x 10 ft 4 Eave fascia
1×6 x 14 ft 2 Rake fascia
1×4 x 16 ft 2 Corner trim on the eave walls
1×4 x 14 ft 4 Door casing sides, door stiles, Z braces
1×4 x 12 ft 1 Door rails
1×4 x 8 ft 7 Gable-wall corner trim, door head casing, window casings
1×2 x 8 ft 2 Door stop and astragal
Exterior primer and paint 3 gal Two coats (rough-sawn T1-11 soaks up more, so check the coverage on the can)
Exterior caulk 3 tubes Trim

Hardware and window

Item Qty
Framing nails 3 1/2 in (16d), hot-dip galvanized 20 lb
Siding nails 2 1/2 in (8d), hot-dip galvanized 14 lb
Sheathing nails 2 1/2 in (8d) for OSB 7 lb
Connector nails 1 1/2 in for the ties 2 lb
Construction adhesive, 10 oz tube 4
T-strap door hinges 6
Door handle and latch set 1
Barrel bolts for the fixed leaf 2
Exterior screws 1 1/4 in (door frame to T1-11) 1 lb
Exterior screws 2 1/2 in (hinge straps into framing) 1 box
Prefabricated window, 36 x 36 in rough opening 1
Flashing tape 4 in 1 roll
Wood shims 1 bundle

Cut list highlights

Most of the 10×16 cut list is square cuts: 44 wall studs at 7′ 6″, 13 floor joists at 9′ 9″ and four skids at a full 16′ 0″. The parts below have angles, overhangs, splices or stacked sizes.

Part Lumber Cut length Qty
Rafter (board length, see below) 2×4 6′ 5″ 26
Fly rafter (rake) 2×4 6′ 5″ 4
Ridge board (two pieces) 2×6 16′ 8″ overall 1
Rafter tie (interior pairs, at the plates) 2×4 10′ 0″ 11
Collar tie 2×4 3′ 8 1/2″ 6
Lookout block (rake overhang) 2×4 2 1/2″ 16
Frieze block (over the eave walls, top beveled) 2×4 1′ 0 1/4″ to 1′ 1 3/4″ 24
Door header (2×8 doubled + 1/2 ply) 2×8 5′ 3″ 2
Door trimmer 2×4 6′ 4 1/2″ 2
Window header (2×6 doubled + 1/2 ply) 2×6 3′ 3″ 2
Window trimmer 2×4 6′ 1″ 2
Center gable stud (under the ridge) 2×4 2′ 2 3/4″ 2
Gable end studs 2×4 7 1/8″ to 2′ 3 1/8″, in 4 in steps 2 each of 6
Front and back cap plate 2×4 15′ 5″ 2
Side wall plate 2×4 9′ 5″ 4
Side wall cap plate 2×4 10′ 0″ 2

Rafters. The 6′ 5″ figure is the board each rafter needs, measured long point to long point on the top edge from the ridge plumb cut to the tail plumb cut, including the 8 in eave overhang. The list buys 17 boards at 14 ft: 15 of them carry two rafters each for the 26 rafters and 4 fly rafters, and the other 2 give the four trimmers.

Mark the plumb cuts with a speed square pivoted to 6 on the common scale (26.6 degrees). The birdsmouth seat is 2 1/2 in, which makes the notch about 1 1/8 in deep. The generator keeps the notch to a third of the rafter’s depth or less, so do not cut it any deeper. Cut one pattern rafter, test it at both ends of the shed, then trace the other 25.

The 4 fly rafters hang off the 2 1/2 in lookout blocks and the ridge extension, not a wall, so they get the ridge plumb cut but no birdsmouth.

Ridge. The ridge is 16′ 8″, not 16′ 0″, because it runs 4 in past each gable wall to carry the fly rafters that make the rake overhang. That is longer than a 16 ft board, so the generator buys two 2×6 x 10 ft and splices the ridge in two equal 8′ 4″ pieces over a support. The joint falls 96 in in from the outside of a gable wall, a multiple of the 16 in layout, so center it on a rafter pair and nail both rafters through it.

Headers. The 60 in door opening gets a doubled 2×8 header with a 1/2 in plywood filler, on trimmers cut to 6′ 4 1/2″, with three 6 1/4″ cripples above it. The window gets a doubled 2×6 header on 6′ 1″ trimmers, two 11 1/2″ cripples above, a 3′ 0″ sill and two 2′ 11 1/2″ cripples below.

Window placement. The window sits in a 10 ft gable wall, whose plates run 113 in between the front and back walls. Measured along that plate, the opening runs from 14 1/2 in to 50 1/2 in, clear of the center gable stud at 56 1/2 in, which carries the ridge. Slide the window toward the middle and the header lands under that stud.

Gable studs. Each 10 ft gable gets six studs plus the 2′ 2 3/4″ center stud, which is shorter than the tallest side stud because it stops under the deeper 2×6 ridge. The studs are laid out 16 in on center from one corner so the siding joints land on them, which puts the two halves of the gable out of step. That is why the list has six lengths, one of each per gable, from 7 1/8″ to 2′ 3 1/8″. Measure each one off your actual end rafter before cutting.

Plates. The front and back walls run 16′ 0″ at the bottom with 15′ 5″ cap plates, and the side walls run 9′ 5″ at the bottom with 10′ 0″ cap plates. The side caps lap over the front and back walls, which locks the corners together.

Gable vs lean-to: what changes

We ran the same 10×16 footprint as a lean-to (single-slope) roof at 3/12, with an 80 in low back wall, the door in the high front wall and the window in the back wall. The skids, joists and decking stay the same; the studs, rafters and siding change.

Item Gable (6/12) Lean-to (3/12)
Rafters 26 2×4 at 6′ 5″ + 4 fly 13 2×6 at 11′ 9 1/2″ + 2 fly
Ridge board 2×6, 16′ 8″ in two pieces None
Wall studs 7′ 6″ on all four walls 8′ 8 5/8″ front, 6′ 3 1/2″ back, stepped on the sides
2×4 framing boards bought (plus 2 seam blocks and 8 braces in both) 104 53
2×6 boards bought (not treated) 3 19
T1-11 sheets 18, all 4×8 16: six 4×10, two 4×9, eight 4×8
Roof OSB sheets 9 7
Shingle bundles 9 7
Felt 1 roll 2 rolls, laid double below 4/12
Fascia 1×6 1×8
Soffit plywood 2 sheets 1 sheet
Extra hardware 2 Z-flashing, 2 gable vents 4 twist straps at the wall corners
Floor 4 skids, 13 joists, 5 sheets 4 skids, 13 joists, 5 sheets

The lean-to’s rafters span the full 10 ft, so the generator moves them up to 2×6: it checks a 113 in span against a 143 in limit for 2×6 at 30 psf. That is why the lean-to buys far fewer 2x4s and far more 2x6s. Each side wall has 9 studs stepping about 4 in at a time, from 6′ 5 3/8″ to 8′ 9 1/4″, under a 9′ 8 1/2″ sloped top plate. The front and side walls need 4×9 and 4×10 siding sheets, which some yards have to order.

At 3/12, read the minimum slope on the shingle wrapper and follow the maker’s low-slope instructions; the lean-to list already buys the second roll of felt for a double layer. For single-slope layouts, see the 8×16 lean-to shed plan, all lean-to shed plans and our gable vs lean-to vs hip roof comparison.

Where the waste goes

  • Wall studs: 90 in from a 96 in board leaves about 6 in each.
  • Rafters: two 6′ 5″ rafters from each 14 ft board leave about 14 in. Reject any board with a split end; 14 in is little room to trim two rafter tails.
  • Floor joists: 9′ 9″ from a 10 ft board leaves 3 in for squaring the ends.
  • Rafter ties: the eleven 10′ 0″ ties come from 12 ft boards, leaving about 2 ft each. Cut the 8 brace stakes, 24 in each, from these.
  • Plates: the 15′ 5″ cap plates and 9′ 5″ side plates each leave about 7 in. The two 10′ 0″ side cap plates use a full 10 ft board with no trim room, so check that the factory ends are square before you set them.
  • Ridge and eave fascia: each 16′ 8″ run comes from two 10 ft boards, so expect about 3′ 4″ of offcut per run.
  • Floor decking: 5 sheets cover exactly 160 sq ft: two rows of full sheets plus one 2 ft row ripped from the fifth sheet. Each ripped strip keeps only one tongue and groove edge, which is why the list adds 2 flat seam blocks.
  • No spares: the counts include nothing for rejects. Pick straight stock at the yard, and add a few 2×4 x 8 ft if you expect to cull warped or split boards.

The longest pieces are 16 ft: the skids, rims, front and back plates and two corner trim boards. Those hang well past a pickup bed, so ask the yard to deliver.

Tools for a 10×16 build

  • Circular saw for the 44 stud cuts and 30 rafters; cut the 2 1/2 in lookout blocks from a long clamped stick with a stop block, never as loose scraps
  • Speed square, framing square and a chalk line for the rafter layout
  • Framing hammer or framing nailer, and a drill/driver for the screws
  • 4 ft level, 25 ft tape for checking the floor diagonals match, and a string line to check the 16 ft rims are straight
  • A rented plate compactor for 3.2 cu yd of gravel, tamped in thin layers, and sawhorses that support 16 ft plates
  • Step ladder and two helpers to raise the 16 ft walls and set the ridge

Common mistakes

  • Mixing up 10×16 and 16×10. In this list the ridge runs along the 16 ft side and the door sits in a 16 ft wall. Turn the ridge the other way and you get a 16 ft rafter span, which needs bigger rafters, a different ridge and much taller gables.
  • Forgetting the door sheets. The generator measures the siding cut out of the doorway at 76 1/2 in tall, shorter than the 77 1/4 in door leaf, so each leaf needs its own new T1-11 sheet.
  • Skipping rafter ties. A ridge board is not a beam. The 11 rafter ties at the plates stop the 16 ft walls from spreading. The 6 collar ties, higher up on every other interior pair, hold the rafter pairs together near the ridge; they do not replace the rafter ties.
  • Deep birdsmouths. A full 3 1/2 in seat would notch a 2×4 rafter past the generator’s one-third limit, so keep the seat at 2 1/2 in.
  • Too few skids. The generator keeps skids no more than 48 in apart. Four under a 10 ft floor land about 39 in apart; three would land about 58 in apart, past that limit.
  • Swapping materials without recounting. This list is for 3-tab shingles and T1-11. Architectural shingles, metal roofing or lap siding cover differently, so recount from the coverage printed on the bundle or the maker’s install guide.
  • Untreated wood near the ground. Skids, rims and joists are pressure treated; plain framing lumber there rots. Use ground-contact rated wood for the skids, and hot-dip galvanized nails and treated-lumber rated screws in treated wood. The USDA Wood Handbook covers why wet, untreated wood decays.

Tie-downs, setbacks and whether a 160 sq ft shed needs a permit vary by town, so check your local permit office before you order. Our shed permit checklist lists what to ask.

For how to read any list like this one, see our shed material list guide. For the base under the skids, see shed foundation options. For a rough budget, see how much it costs to build a shed; price this list at two yards before you order.

Get the full plan

The 10×16 gable shed plan is a 3DSHEDPLANS PDF with 40+ steps, 3D images and its own printable material list for its 78 in double door and two windows. Prefer a roof that slopes on all four sides? See the 10×16 hip roof shed plan. For the nearest sizes, see the 10×14 gable shed plan and the 10×20 gable shed plan, or compare the 10×12 shed material list and the 12×16 shed material list.

Want to see the format first? Download the free 10×16 gable shed plan preview PDF. Need more or less room? Compare all gable shed plans or browse every size on the shed plans page.

Frequently asked questions

What is on a 10×16 shed material list?

For a 10×16 gable shed with 94 1/2 in walls and a 6/12 roof, our generator lists 114 2x4s incl. braces, 15 treated 2x6s, 4 treated 4×4 skids, 5 sheets of 3/4 in plywood, 9 of OSB, 18 of T1-11, 2 of 1/2 in plywood and 9 shingle bundles, plus nails and trim.

Is there a 10×16 shed plan with a materials list?

Yes. The 3DSHEDPLANS 10×16 gable shed plan PDF includes a printable material list with quantities, and a free 10×16 preview PDF shows the format first. This page lists the generator's shopping list and the key cut lengths.

How many 2x4s do I need for a 10×16 shed?

114 in all for a 10×16 gable shed with a 60 in double door. That is 104 framing boards (64 at 8 ft, 6 at 10 ft, 11 at 12 ft, 17 at 14 ft, 6 at 16 ft), 2 more at 8 ft for floor seam blocks and 8 at 12 ft for temporary braces.

How many sheets of plywood, OSB and siding does a 10×16 shed need?

5 sheets of 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood for the floor, 9 sheets of 7/16 in OSB for the roof, 18 sheets of 5/8 in T1-11 for the walls, gables and door leaves, and 2 sheets of 1/2 in plywood for the soffit and header fillers.

Shed building guides