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An 8×10 shed material list for a gable shed on skids comes to 77 2×4 framing boards plus 8 braces, 9 pressure-treated 2×6 joists, 2 rims, 3 sheets of 3/4 in plywood, 4 of OSB, 13 of T1-11 and 5 shingle bundles. That assumes 94 1/2 in walls, a 6/12 roof and 16 in spacing.

Every quantity and cut length on this page comes from the 3DSHEDPLANS plan generator, which models each stud, rafter and sheet of an 8×10 shed and counts what to buy by stock length. The generator counts 33 full-height wall studs for 36 ft of wall; the door and window replace the rest with trimmers, cripples and a sill. This list is the generator’s 60 in door version, and the paid 8×10 plan with its 84 in door has its own list.

What this 8×10 list assumes

The generator ran a shed 8 ft deep and 10 ft wide, with 80 sq ft of floor and the ridge running the 10 ft way. These are its settings:

  • Walls: 94 1/2 in tall including the bottom plate and double top plate, so wall studs are cut to 90 in (7′ 6″).
  • Spacing: studs, floor joists and rafters all at 16 in on center.
  • Roof: 6/12 pitch, 2×4 rafters, a 2×6 ridge board, 8 in eave overhang and 4 in rake overhang. The roof works out to about 110 sq ft.
  • Floor: three pressure-treated 4×4 skids 10 ft long, about 46 in apart, on a crushed stone pad, with 2×6 joists cut to 7′ 9″ at 16 in on center and 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood.
  • Loads: the 2×4 rafters pass a span table check at 30 psf ground snow (SPF #2 at 16 in, 48 in run). That is the generator’s design assumption; if your area’s snow load may be higher, check your local permit office before you buy rafter stock.
  • Openings: a 60 in wide double door in the 10 ft front wall and a 36 x 36 in window in the 10 ft back wall. The two 8 ft side walls carry the gables.

Our 8×10 gable shed plan has the same 94 1/2 in walls and one 36 x 36 in window, but an 84 in wide by 84 in tall door opening and a taller roof, 148 3/4 in overall. Its door header, trimmers, door leaves, rafters and gable studs differ from the ones below. Use this page to plan your order and the plan’s own printable list to shop.

Shopping list by stage: the full 8×10 shed material list

Lumber sizes are nominal. A 2×4 measures about 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in, as the American Wood Council explains. Check the grade stamp on plywood and OSB; the APA trademark guide shows how to read it.

Floor

Item Qty Used for
Pressure-treated 4×4 x 10 ft, tagged for ground contact 3 Skids
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 8 ft 9 Floor joists
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 10 ft 2 Rim joists
3/4 in T&G plywood, 4×8 sheet 3 Floor decking
Crushed stone 3/4 in, loose 1.8 cu yd Gravel pad, 10 x 12 ft and 4 in deep after tamping; the loose amount allows about 20% for compaction
Deck screws 2 in (or 6d ring-shank nails), rated for treated lumber 3 lb Decking

Walls and roof framing

Item Qty Used for
2×4 x 8 ft 49 Wall studs, side wall plates and cap plates, cripples, sill, gable studs, lookout and frieze blocks
2×4 x 10 ft 13 Front and back wall plates and cap plates, rafter ties
2×4 x 12 ft 11 Rafters and fly rafters
2×4 x 14 ft 4 Door and window trimmers, collar ties, frieze blocks
2×6 x 8 ft 1 Window header
2×8 x 12 ft 1 Door header
2×6 x 12 ft 1 Ridge board
Hurricane ties, H2.5A type or equal 18 Rafter to plate
Temporary braces 2×4 x 12 ft 8 Wall bracing, reused later

The two header filler strips of 1/2 in plywood are ripped from the soffit sheet, so buy that sheet with the wall lumber. Add the 8 temporary braces to the 77 framing boards and the truck carries 85 2x4s in all.

Roof covering

Item Qty Used for
7/16 in OSB, 4×8 sheet 4 Roof sheathing
15 lb felt, 400 sq ft roll 1 Underlayment
3-tab shingles, 26 per bundle 5 bundles Roof, starter course and ridge cap
Drip edge, 10 ft 5 Eaves and rakes
Roofing nails 1 1/4 in galvanized 5 lb Shingles
Roofing cap nails 1 in 1 lb Felt
Roofing cement, 10 oz tube 2 Roofing
Insect screen, 2 ft x 25 ft 1 roll Gaps at the eaves and frieze blocks

Siding and trim

Item Qty Used for
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet 10 Walls
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet 1 Gable triangles
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet 2 Door leaves (one per leaf)
1/2 in plywood, 4×8 sheet 1 Eave soffit and header fillers
Z-flashing, 10 ft 2 Wall siding to gable siding joint
Drip cap, 10 ft 1 Over the door and window head casings
1×6 x 12 ft 4 Eave fascia and rake fascia
1×4 x 16 ft 2 Corner trim on the eave walls
1×4 x 14 ft 4 Door casing sides, door stiles, Z braces
1×4 x 12 ft 1 Door rails
1×4 x 8 ft 7 Gable-wall corner trim, door head casing, window casings
1×2 x 8 ft 2 Door stop and astragal
Exterior primer and paint 2 gal Two coats (rough-sawn T1-11 soaks up more, so check the coverage on the can)
Exterior caulk 3 tubes Trim

Hardware and window

Item Qty
Framing nails 3 1/2 in (16d), hot-dip galvanized 15 lb
Siding nails 2 1/2 in (8d), hot-dip galvanized 10 lb
Sheathing nails 2 1/2 in (8d) for OSB 5 lb
Connector nails 1 1/2 in for the ties 2 lb
Construction adhesive, 10 oz tube 3
T-strap door hinges 6
Door handle and latch set 1
Barrel bolts for the fixed leaf 2
Exterior screws 1 1/4 in (door frame to T1-11) 1 lb
Exterior screws 2 1/2 in (hinge straps into framing) 1 box
Prefabricated window, 36 x 36 in rough opening 1
Flashing tape 4 in 1 roll
Wood shims 1 bundle

Cut list highlights

Most of the 8×10 cut list is square cuts: 33 wall studs at 7′ 6″, 9 floor joists at 7′ 9″ and three skids at a full 10′ 0″. The parts below have angles, overhangs or stacked sizes.

Part Lumber Cut length Qty
Rafter (board length, see below) 2×4 5′ 3 1/2″ 18
Fly rafter (rake) 2×4 5′ 3 1/2″ 4
Ridge board 2×6 10′ 8″ 1
Rafter tie (at the plates) 2×4 8′ 0″ 7
Collar tie 2×4 3′ 0 1/2″ 4
Lookout block (rake overhang) 2×4 2 1/2″ 16
Frieze block (over the eave walls, top beveled) 2×4 4 1/4″ to 1′ 1 3/4″ 16
Door header (2×8 doubled + 1/2 ply) 2×8 5′ 3″ 2
Door trimmer 2×4 6′ 4 1/2″ 2
Window header (2×6 doubled + 1/2 ply) 2×6 3′ 3″ 2
Window trimmer 2×4 6′ 1″ 2
Center gable stud (under the ridge) 2×4 1′ 8 3/4″ 2
Gable end studs 2×4 7 1/8″ and 1′ 3 1/8″ 4 each
Front and back cap plate 2×4 9′ 5″ 2
Side wall cap plate 2×4 8′ 0″ 2

Rafters. The 5′ 3 1/2″ figure is the board each rafter needs, measured corner to corner from the top of the ridge plumb cut to the bottom of the tail plumb cut, including the 8 in eave overhang. Hook the tape on the top corner of the ridge plumb cut and mark 5′ 3 1/2″ to the bottom corner of the tail cut; the top edge alone is shorter. The list buys 11 boards at 12 ft for the 22 rafters and fly rafters, two per board.

Mark the plumb cuts with a speed square pivoted to 6 on the common scale (26.6 degrees). The birdsmouth seat is 2 1/2 in, which makes the notch about 1 1/8 in deep. The generator keeps the notch to a third of the rafter’s depth or less, so do not cut it any deeper. Cut one pattern rafter, test it on both walls, then trace the other 17.

The 4 fly rafters hang off the 2 1/2 in lookout blocks and the ridge extension, not a wall, so they get the ridge plumb cut but no birdsmouth.

Ridge. The ridge is 10′ 8″, not 10′ 0″, because it runs 4 in past each gable wall to carry the fly rafters that make the rake overhang.

Headers. The 60 in door opening gets a doubled 2×8 header with a 1/2 in plywood filler, on trimmers cut to 6′ 4 1/2″, with four 6 1/4″ cripples above it. The window gets a doubled 2×6 header on 6′ 1″ trimmers, two 11 1/2″ cripples above, a 3′ 0″ sill and two 2′ 11 1/2″ cripples below.

Gable studs. On an 8 ft deep shed each gable is short: a pair of studs at 7 1/8″, a pair at 1′ 3 1/8″, and a 1′ 8 3/4″ center stud under the ridge. Measure each one off your actual end rafter before cutting.

Plates. The front and back walls run 10′ 0″ at the bottom with 9′ 5″ cap plates, and the side walls run 7′ 5″ at the bottom with 8′ 0″ cap plates. The side caps lap over the front and back walls, which locks the corners together.

Gable vs lean-to: what changes

We ran the same 8×10 footprint as a lean-to (single-slope) roof at 3/12, with an 80 in low back wall and the door in the high front wall. The skids, joists and decking stay the same; the studs, rafters and siding change.

Item Gable (6/12) Lean-to (3/12)
Rafters 18 2×4 at 5′ 3 1/2″ + 4 fly 9 2×4 at 9′ 8 3/8″ + 2 fly
Ridge board 2×6, cut 10′ 8″ None
Wall studs 7′ 6″ on all four walls 8′ 2 5/8″ front, 6′ 3 1/2″ back, stepped on the sides
2×4 framing boards bought (plus 8 braces in both) 77 59
2×6 boards bought (not treated) 2 1
T1-11 sheets 13, all 4×8 12: five 4×9, seven 4×8
Roof OSB sheets 4 4
Shingle bundles 5 4
Drip edge, 10 ft 5 5
Felt 1 roll 1 roll, laid double below 4/12
Extra hardware 2 Z-flashing 4 twist straps at the wall corners
Floor 3 skids, 9 joists, 3 sheets 3 skids, 9 joists, 3 sheets

The lean-to has no ridge and no gable triangles, and its rafters stay 2×4: the generator checks an 89 in span against a 98 in limit for 2×4 at 30 psf. Each side wall has 7 studs stepping about 4 in at a time, from 6′ 5 3/8″ to 8′ 3 1/4″, under a 7′ 7 3/4″ sloped top plate. The front wall needs 4×9 siding sheets, which some yards have to order.

At 3/12, read the minimum slope on the shingle wrapper before you buy. For single-slope layouts, see the 8×16 lean-to shed plan, all lean-to shed plans and our gable vs lean-to vs hip roof comparison.

Where the waste goes

  • Wall studs: 90 in from a 96 in board leaves about 6 in each.
  • Rafters: two 5′ 3 1/2″ rafters from each 12 ft board leave about 17 in. Reject any board with a split end.
  • Floor joists: 7′ 9″ from an 8 ft board leaves 3 in for squaring the ends.
  • Rafter ties: the seven 8′ 0″ ties come from 10 ft boards, leaving about 2 ft each. Cut the 8 brace stakes from these and other offcuts, a little under 24 in so the ends can be squared and pointed.
  • Ridge and eave fascia: 10′ 8″ from 12 ft stock leaves about 16 in on each.
  • Floor decking: 3 sheets cover 80 sq ft with about half a sheet left over.
  • No spares: the counts include nothing for rejects. Pick straight stock at the yard, and add a few 2×4 x 8 ft if you expect to cull warped or split boards.

The only 16 ft pieces are two 1×4 corner trim boards, and the longest framing is four 2×4 x 14 ft. Even 12 ft boards hang well past a pickup bed, so flag the overhang or ask the yard to deliver.

Tools for an 8×10 build

  • Circular saw, plus a miter saw if you have one for the stud and block cuts
  • Speed square, framing square and a chalk line for the rafter layout
  • Framing hammer or framing nailer, and a drill/driver for the screws
  • 4 ft level, 25 ft tape for checking the floor diagonals match, and a string line to check the rims are straight
  • Hand tamper for the gravel pad, sawhorses, safety glasses and hearing protection
  • Step ladder and a second person to raise the walls and set the ridge

Common mistakes

  • Mixing up 8×10 and 10×8. In this list the ridge runs along the 10 ft side and the door sits in a 10 ft wall. Turn the ridge the other way and the rafter lengths, gable studs and siding all change, so check which layout your plan uses. Our 10×8 gable shed plan is a separate design with its own list.
  • Forgetting the door sheets. The generator measures the siding cut out of the doorway at 76 1/2 in tall, shorter than the 77 1/4 in door leaf, so each leaf needs its own new T1-11 sheet.
  • Skipping rafter ties. A ridge board is not a beam. The 7 rafter ties at the plates stop the walls from spreading. The 4 collar ties, higher up on interior pairs only, hold the rafter pairs together near the ridge; they do not replace the rafter ties.
  • Deep birdsmouths. A full 3 1/2 in seat would notch a 2×4 rafter past the generator’s one-third limit, so keep the seat at 2 1/2 in.
  • Two skids instead of three. The generator keeps skids no more than 48 in apart. Three under an 8 ft floor land about 46 in apart; two at the edges would be over 7 ft apart, past that limit, with nothing under the middle of each joist.
  • Swapping materials without recounting. This list is for 3-tab shingles and T1-11. Architectural shingles, metal roofing or lap siding cover differently, so recount from the coverage printed on the bundle or the maker’s install guide.
  • Untreated wood near the ground. Skids, rims and joists are pressure treated; plain framing lumber there rots. Use ground-contact rated wood for the skids, and hot-dip galvanized nails and treated-lumber rated screws in treated wood. The USDA Wood Handbook covers why wet, untreated wood decays.

Tie-downs, setbacks and whether an 80 sq ft shed needs a permit vary by town, so check your local permit office before you order.

For how to read any list like this one, see our shed material list guide. For the base under the skids, see shed foundation options. For a rough budget, see how much it costs to build a shed; price this list at two yards, since lumber prices move by region and month.

Get the full plan

The 8×10 gable shed plan is a 3DSHEDPLANS PDF with 40+ steps, 3D images and its own printable material list for its 84 in door and one window. For the nearest sizes, see the 8×8 gable shed plan and the 8×12 gable shed plan. For bigger sheds, compare the 10×12 shed material list and the 12×12 shed material list.

Want to see the format first? Download the free 8×10 gable shed plan preview PDF. Need more or less room? Compare all gable shed plans or browse every size on the shed plans page.

Frequently asked questions

What is on an 8×10 shed material list?

For an 8×10 gable shed with 94 1/2 in walls, a 6/12 roof and a 60 in door, our generator lists 77 2×4 framing boards, 9 pressure-treated 2×6 joists and 2 rims, 3 pressure-treated 4×4 skids, 3 sheets of 3/4 in plywood, 4 of OSB, 13 of T1-11, 5 shingle bundles, plus nails and trim.

Is there an 8×10 shed plan with a materials list?

Yes. The 3DSHEDPLANS 8×10 gable shed plan PDF includes a printable material list with quantities, and a free 8×10 preview PDF shows the format first. This page lists the generator's shopping list and the key cut lengths.

How many 2x4s do I need for an 8×10 shed?

Our generator buys 77 2×4 framing boards for an 8×10 gable shed with a 60 in double door: 49 at 8 ft, 13 at 10 ft, 11 at 12 ft and 4 at 14 ft. Add 8 more 2×4 x 12 ft for temporary wall braces, which you can reuse later.

How many sheets of plywood and siding does an 8×10 shed need?

3 sheets of 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood for the floor, 4 sheets of 7/16 in OSB for the roof, 13 sheets of 5/8 in T1-11 for the walls, gables and door leaves, and 1 sheet of 1/2 in plywood for the soffit and header fillers.

Shed building guides