10x24 Shed Material List: Lumber, Sheets and Hardware

Last updated October 13, 2026

A 10×24 shed material list for a gable shed on skids is 148 2x4s (136 of them framing), 24 treated 2x6s, 8 treated 4x4s, 8 sheets of 3/4 in plywood, 13 of OSB, 22 of T1-11 and 13 shingle bundles. It assumes 94 1/2 in walls, a 6/12 roof and 16 in spacing.

Every quantity and cut length on this page comes from the 3DSHEDPLANS plan generator, our software that models each board of the shed and counts what to buy. It checks spans, notches, splices and sheet coverage on every build, and this 10×24 build passed all 79 checks. The list is for one 60 in double door and one 36 x 36 in window. It is not the list in our 10×24 plan PDF, which has a 108 in wide roll-up door and two windows.

What this 10×24 shed material list assumes

The generator ran a shed 10 ft deep and 24 ft wide, with 240 sq ft of floor and the ridge running the 24 ft way. These are its settings:

• Walls: 94 1/2 in tall including the bottom plate and double top plate, so wall studs are cut to 90 in (7′ 6″).
• Spacing: studs, floor joists and rafters all at 16 in on center.
• Roof: 6/12 pitch, 2×4 rafters, a 2×6 ridge board, 8 in eave overhang and 4 in rake overhang. The roof works out to about 309 sq ft.
• Floor: four pressure-treated 4×4 skids 24 ft long, about 39 in apart (38.8 in), on a crushed stone pad 26 x 12 ft and 4 in deep (12 in wider than the shed on every side), with 2×6 joists cut to 9′ 9″ at 16 in on center and 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood.
• Loads: the 2×4 rafters pass a span table check at 30 psf ground snow (SPF #2 at 16 in, 60 in run). That is the generator’s design assumption; if your area’s snow load may be higher, check your local permit office before you buy rafter stock.
• Openings: a 60 in wide double door on 76 1/2 in trimmers in the 24 ft front wall, and one 36 x 36 in window in the right 10 ft gable wall. The back wall and the left gable wall have no openings.

Our 10×24 gable shed plan uses the same footprint with the wider roll-up door layout. Its PDF has its own printable list, so if you build the plan, shop from the plan’s list.

Shopping list by stage

Lumber sizes are nominal. A 2×4 measures about 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in, as the American Wood Council explains. Check the grade stamp on plywood and OSB; the APA trademark guide shows how to read it.

Totals at a glance

Material	Total
2×4 boards, all lengths (framing, seam blocks, braces, ridge post)	148
Pressure-treated 2×6 (20 joists, 4 for the two rims)	24
Pressure-treated 4×4 (one 8 ft and one 16 ft per 24 ft skid)	8
Pressure-treated 2×4 x 14 ft (skid splice scabs)	2
2×6 (ridge and window header)	3
2×8 (door header)	1
3/4 in T&G plywood sheets (floor)	8
7/16 in OSB sheets (roof)	13
5/8 in T1-11 sheets (walls, gables, door leaves)	22
1/2 in plywood sheets (soffit, header fillers)	2
3-tab shingle bundles	13

Floor

Item	Qty	Used for
Pressure-treated 4×4 x 8 ft, tagged for ground contact	4	One piece of each 24′ 0″ skid
Pressure-treated 4×4 x 16 ft, tagged for ground contact	4	The other piece of each skid
Pressure-treated 2×4 x 14 ft	2	Eight 3′ 0″ splice scabs, one on each side of each skid joint
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 10 ft	20	19 floor joists cut to 9′ 9″, plus a second joist at the rim joint
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 12 ft and 14 ft	2 + 2	Two 24′ 0″ rim joists, cut 11′ 11 1/4″ and 12′ 0 3/4″
3/4 in T&G plywood, 4×8 sheet	8	Floor decking (240 sq ft)
2×4 x 8 ft	3	Flat blocks under the decking seams
Crushed stone 3/4 in, loose	4.7 cu yd	Gravel pad, measured loose before tamping
Deck screws 2 in (or 6d ring-shank nails), rated for treated lumber	6 lb	Decking

Walls and roof framing

Item	Qty	Used for
2×4 x 8 ft	79	56 wall studs, the 8 ft front plate pieces, short cap plate pieces, cripples, window sill, gable studs, lookout and frieze blocks
2×4 x 10 ft	6	Side wall plates and cap plates
2×4 x 12 ft	24	17 rafter ties, 9 collar ties (three per board), back wall plate pieces
2×4 x 14 ft	23	38 rafters and 4 fly rafters (two per board), door and window trimmers
2×4 x 16 ft	4	Front plate pieces and the long cap plate pieces
2×6 x 8 ft	1	Window header
2×6 x 12 ft and 14 ft	1 + 1	Ridge board (24′ 8″, spliced)
2×8 x 12 ft	1	Door header
Hurricane ties, H2.5A type or equal	38	Rafter to plate
Temporary braces 2×4 x 12 ft	8	Wall bracing, reused later
Temporary post 2×4 x 12 ft	1	Under the ridge joint until that rafter pair is set

The two header filler strips of 1/2 in plywood are ripped from a soffit sheet, so buy the soffit plywood with the wall lumber.

Roof covering

Item	Qty	Used for
7/16 in OSB, 4×8 sheet	13	Roof sheathing
15 lb felt, 400 sq ft roll	1	Underlayment
3-tab shingles, 26 per bundle	13 bundles	Roof, starter course and ridge cap
Drip edge, 10 ft	9	Eaves and rakes
Roofing nails 1 1/4 in galvanized	10 lb	Shingles
Roofing cap nails 1 in	2 lb	Felt
Roofing cement, 10 oz tube	2	Roofing
Louvered gable vent, 8 x 12 in	2	One in each gable
Insect screen, 2 ft x 25 ft	1 roll	Vent holes and gaps at the eaves

Siding and trim

Item	Qty	Used for
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet	18	Walls (544 sq ft, before the door and window cut-outs)
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet	2	Both gable triangles
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet	2	Door leaves (one per leaf)
1/2 in plywood, 4×8 sheet	2	Eave soffit and header fillers
Z-flashing, 10 ft	2	Wall siding to gable siding joint
Drip cap, 10 ft	1	Over the door and window head casings
1×6 x 12 ft and 14 ft	2 + 2	Eave fascia (two 24′ 8″ runs, spliced)
1×6 x 14 ft	2	Rake fascia (two pieces per board)
1×4 x 16 ft	2	Corner trim on the eave walls
1×4 x 14 ft	4	Door casing sides, door stiles, Z braces
1×4 x 12 ft	1	Door rails
1×4 x 8 ft	7	Gable-wall corner trim, door head casing, window casings
1×2 x 8 ft	2	Door stop and astragal
Exterior paint and primer in one	6 gal	Two coats over about 745 sq ft
Exterior caulk	3 tubes	Trim

Hardware and window

Item	Qty
Framing nails 3 1/2 in (16d), hot-dip galvanized	44 lb
Siding nails 2 1/2 in (8d), hot-dip galvanized	20 lb
Sheathing nails 2 1/2 in (8d) for OSB	10 lb
Connector nails 1 1/2 in for the ties	3 lb
Construction adhesive, 10 oz tube	11
T-strap door hinges	6
Door handle and latch set	1
Barrel bolts for the fixed leaf	2
Exterior screws 1 1/4 in (door frame to T1-11)	1 lb
Exterior screws 2 1/2 in (hinge straps into framing)	1 box
Prefabricated window, 36 x 36 in rough opening	1
Flashing tape 4 in	1 roll
Wood shims	1 bundle

Cut list highlights

Most of the 10×24 cut list is square cuts: 56 wall studs at 7′ 6″ and 20 floor joists at 9′ 9″. The table holds the parts that need angles, splices or a tape for each piece.

Part	Lumber	Cut length	Qty
Rafter	2×4	6′ 5″	38
Fly rafter (rake)	2×4	6′ 5″	4
Ridge board (spliced)	2×6	24′ 8″	1
Rafter tie (interior pairs, at the plates)	2×4	10′ 0″	17
Collar tie	2×4	3′ 8 1/2″	9
Lookout block (rake overhang)	2×4	2 1/2″	16
Frieze block (over the eave walls, top beveled)	2×4	1′ 0 1/4″ to 1′ 1 3/4″	36
Skid (spliced)	PT 4×4	24′ 0″	4
Rim joist (spliced)	PT 2×6	24′ 0″	2
Front and back wall plate (spliced)	2×4	24′ 0″	4
Front and back cap plate (spliced)	2×4	23′ 5″	2
Door header (2×8 doubled + 1/2 ply)	2×8	5′ 3″	2
Door trimmer	2×4	6′ 4 1/2″	2
Window header (2×6 doubled + 1/2 ply)	2×6	3′ 3″	2
Window trimmer	2×4	6′ 1″	2
Center gable stud (under the ridge)	2×4	2′ 2 3/4″	2
Gable end studs	2×4	7 1/8″ to 2′ 3 1/8″ in six lengths	2 each

Rafters. Each rafter needs a 6′ 5″ board with 26.6 degree plumb cuts at the ridge and the tail, which includes the 8 in eave overhang. The list buys 21 boards of 14 ft 2×4 and cuts two rafters from each, which leaves about 14 in per board. An 8 ft board holds only one rafter and wastes about 19 in, so you would need 42 boards instead of 21.

Mark the plumb cuts with a speed square pivoted to 6 on the common scale. The birdsmouth seat is 2 1/2 in, which makes the notch about 1 1/8 in deep. The generator keeps the notch to a third of the rafter’s depth or less, so do not cut it any deeper. Cut one pattern rafter, test it at both ends and the middle of the shed, then trace the other 37.

The 4 fly rafters hang off the 2 1/2 in lookout blocks and the ridge extension, not a wall, so they get the plumb cuts but no birdsmouth.

Ridge. The ridge is 24′ 8″, not 24′ 0″, because it runs 4 in past each gable wall to carry the fly rafters. It is cut 11′ 0″ from a 12 ft 2×6 and 13′ 8″ from a 14 ft 2×6. The joint lands on the rafter pair 10′ 8″ from the left corner, so both ends of the splice are nailed through rafters. Hold it on the temporary 2×4 post, cut 10′ 1 1/4″ from the deck to the underside of the ridge, until that pair is set.

The 24 ft runs. The skids, rim joists, wall plates, cap plates, ridge and eave fascia are all longer than the 16 ft stock on the list, so each is two boards with a planned joint. Each skid is one 8 ft and one 16 ft 4×4. Skids 1 and 3 start with the 8 ft piece at the left end and skids 2 and 4 start with the 16 ft piece, so neighboring joints sit 8 ft apart, each under a floor joist and scabbed on both sides. Each rim breaks 11′ 11 1/4″ from the left end, where a layout joist and a second joist sit side by side, so both rim ends nail into a full joist. Spliced skids work on a level, compacted pad but are weak for dragging, so do not plan to skid this shed to a new spot later.

The splices come from the generator’s rule of no board over 16 ft, the longest length most home centers stock. If your yard sells 24 ft treated 4×4 and 2×6, one board per skid and rim removes those joints and the scabs; recount the stock before you order.

Wall plates. The front plates use a full 8 ft and a full 16 ft board, joint 8 ft from the left end, centered on a full-height stud. The back plates use two full 12 ft boards, joint at the middle. The 23′ 5″ cap plates are cut 15′ 8 1/2″ and 7′ 8 1/2″ and break on a stud at least 4 ft from the plate joint below, so each layer laps the other’s joint. The side walls get 9′ 4 7/8″ plates, 1/8 in short of the gap so they drop in between the eave walls, and full 10 ft cap plates that lap the corners.

Headers. The 60 in door opening gets a doubled 2×8 header with a 1/2 in plywood filler, on trimmers cut to 6′ 4 1/2″, with three 6 1/4″ cripples above it. The bottom plate is cut out of the doorway after the wall is up, so the door leaves swing over the floor. The window gets a doubled 2×6 header on 6′ 1″ trimmers, two 11 1/2″ cripples above, a 3′ 0″ sill and two 2′ 11 1/2″ cripples below.

Gable studs. Each 10 ft gable has one 2′ 2 3/4″ center stud plus six end studs, one each of 7 1/8″, 11 1/8″, 1′ 3 1/8″, 1′ 7 1/8″, 1′ 11 1/8″ and 2′ 3 1/8″. The studs are laid out 16 in on center from one corner so the T1-11 joints land on them. That means the two halves of a gable are not mirror images, so label each stud and measure it off your actual end rafter before cutting.

Gable vs lean-to: what changes

We ran the same 10×24 footprint as a lean-to (single-slope) roof at 3/12, with an 80 in low back wall, the door in the high front wall and the window in the back wall. The skids, joists and decking stay the same; the studs, rafters and siding change.

Item	Gable (6/12)	Lean-to (3/12)
Rafters	38 2×4 at 6′ 5″ + 4 fly	19 2×6 at 11′ 9 1/2″ + 2 fly
Ridge board	2×6, 24′ 8″ from a 12 ft and a 14 ft board	None
Wall studs	7′ 6″ on all four walls	8′ 8 5/8″ front, 6′ 3 1/2″ back, stepped on the sides
2×4 framing boards bought	136	68
2×4 seam blocks, braces and posts	12	11
2×6 boards bought (not treated)	3	26
T1-11 sheets	22, all 4×8	20: eight 4×10, two 4×9, ten 4×8
Roof OSB sheets	13	10
Shingle bundles	13	11
Felt	1 roll	2 rolls, laid double below 4/12
Fascia	1×6	1×8
Extra hardware	2 Z-flashing, 2 gable vents	4 twist straps at the wall corners
Framing nails (16d)	44 lb	31 lb
Floor	4 skids, 20 joists, 8 sheets	4 skids, 20 joists, 8 sheets

On a 10 ft deep shed the lean-to rafters are 2×6: the generator checks a 113 in span against a 143 in limit for 2×6 at 30 psf, while a 2×4 tops out near 98 in. That is why the lean-to buys 26 plain 2x6s (19 rafters and 2 fly rafters from 12 ft stock, plus blocking and a window header) but half as many 2x4s. Each side wall has 9 studs stepping from 6′ 5 3/8″ to 8′ 9 1/4″ under a 9′ 8 1/2″ sloped top plate cut at 14 degrees.

Each lean-to rafter is 11′ 9 1/2″ from a 12 ft board, which leaves only about 2 1/2 in, so check the board ends before you mark it. The 8′ 8 5/8″ front studs come out of 10 ft boards, and the high wall takes 4×10 siding sheets, which some yards have to order. At 3/12, read the minimum slope on the shingle wrapper and follow the maker’s low-slope instructions. For a single-slope layout this long, see the 12×24 lean-to shed plan, all lean-to shed plans and our gable vs lean-to vs hip roof comparison.

Where the waste goes

• Wall studs: 90 in from a 96 in board leaves about 6 in each.
• Rafters: two 6′ 5″ rafters from a 14 ft board leave about 14 in. Cut the 2 1/2 in lookout blocks and the 7 1/8 in and 11 1/8 in gable studs from those ends if you want, but the list already buys boards for them.
• Floor joists: 9′ 9″ from a 10 ft board leaves 3 in for squaring the ends.
• Rafter ties: the seventeen 10′ 0″ ties come from 12 ft boards, leaving about 2 ft each. Cut the 8 brace stakes from these; at just under 24 in after the saw kerf, they are close enough.
• Collar ties: three 3′ 8 1/2″ ties per 12 ft board leave about 10 in.
• 24 ft runs: the skids and the front and back plates use full boards with factory ends and no offcut. The rim pieces leave about 3/4 in and 23 in, and the ridge and eave fascia pieces about 12 in and 4 in.
• Cap plates: the 15′ 8 1/2″ and 7′ 8 1/2″ cap pieces leave about 3 1/2 in each.
• Side cap plates: each uses a full 10 ft board with no trim room, so check that the factory ends are square at the yard.
• Floor decking and wall siding: 8 floor sheets give 256 sq ft for a 240 sq ft floor, and 18 wall sheets give 576 sq ft for 544 sq ft of wall. The leftover is in strips you cannot use for a full panel, so a damaged sheet still means a trip back to the yard.
• Corner trim: two 7′ 11 1/8″ pieces from each 1×4 x 16 ft board leave under 2 in, so check the ends at the yard.
• No spares: the counts include nothing for rejects. Pick straight stock at the yard, and add a few 2×4 x 8 ft if you expect to cull warped or split boards.

The longest pieces bought are 16 ft: the skid pieces, the front plate and cap plate pieces, and the two corner trim boards for the eave walls. Everything else is 8, 10, 12 or 14 ft stock.

Tools for a 10×24 build

• Circular saw, speed square and framing square for 56 stud cuts and 42 rafters; cut the 2 1/2 in lookout blocks from a long clamped stick with a stop block, never as loose scraps
• Framing hammer or framing nailer, and a drill/driver for the screws; with a nailer, buy about 1,750 collated galvanized 3 1/2 in nails for your gun instead of the 44 lb of loose ones
• Two step ladders or a walk board and sawhorses for setting the ridge, which sits about 10 ft above the deck
• 4 ft level, a 30 ft tape for the floor diagonals (both should read about 26 ft on a square 10×24 floor), and a string line for the 24 ft rims and plates
• A rented plate compactor for 4.7 cu yd of gravel, laid in thin layers
• A crew: the generator plans for a helper on most steps and 6 people to raise the 24 ft front wall
• Safety glasses and hearing protection for the saw and nailer, and gloves for the treated lumber

Common mistakes

• Mixing up 10×24 and 24×10. In this list the ridge runs along the 24 ft side and the door sits in a 24 ft wall. If the ridge runs the 10 ft way, the roof spans 24 ft and each rafter’s run grows from about 60 in to about 144 in, far past the 2×4 span check, and the ridge, gables and rafter sizes all change.
• Lining up the splices. Every 24 ft member here is two boards. If the skid, rim, plate and cap plate joints all fall at the same spot, the floor and walls get a hinge line. Keep them where the list puts them.
• Forgetting the door sheets. The siding cut out of the doorway is 76 1/2 in tall, shorter than the 77 1/4 in door leaf, so each leaf needs its own new T1-11 sheet.
• Skipping rafter ties. A ridge board is not a beam. The 17 rafter ties at the plates stop the 24 ft walls from spreading. The 9 collar ties, on every other interior pair in the upper third, hold the rafter pairs together near the ridge; they do not replace the rafter ties.
• Deep birdsmouths. A full 3 1/2 in seat would notch a 2×4 rafter past the generator’s one-third limit, so keep the seat at 2 1/2 in.
• Swapping materials without recounting. This list is for 3-tab shingles and T1-11. Architectural shingles, metal roofing or lap siding cover differently, so recount from the coverage printed on the bundle or the maker’s install guide.
• Untreated wood near the ground. Skids, rims and joists are pressure treated; plain framing lumber there rots. Use ground-contact rated wood for the skids, and hot-dip galvanized nails and treated-lumber rated screws in treated wood. The USDA Wood Handbook covers why wet, untreated wood decays.

Whether a 240 sq ft shed needs a permit, and what setbacks and tie-downs apply, varies by town, so check your local permit office before you order. Our shed permit checklist lists what to ask. Ground anchors or tie-downs are not counted in this list, so ask the same office what your area expects for a 240 sq ft shed on skids.

For how to read any list like this one, see our shed material list guide. For other sizes, try the shed material calculator. For the base under the skids, see shed foundation options, and for a rough budget, see how much it costs to build a shed.

Get the full plan

The 10×24 gable shed plan is a 3DSHEDPLANS PDF with 40+ steps, 3D images and its own printable material list. For the nearest sizes, see the 10×20 gable shed plan, the 14×24 gable shed plan and the 16×24 gable shed plan, or compare the 10×20 shed material list and the 12×24 shed material list.

The free 10×24 gable shed plan preview PDF shows the page layout of the paid plan. Every gable size is on the gable shed plans page, and every roof style on the shed plans page.

Frequently asked questions

What is on a 10×24 shed material list?

For a 10×24 gable shed with 94 1/2 in walls and a 6/12 roof, our generator lists 148 2x4s, 24 treated 2x6s, 8 treated 4x4s, 8 sheets of 3/4 in plywood, 13 of OSB, 22 of T1-11, 2 of 1/2 in plywood and 13 shingle bundles, plus trim, nails and hardware.

How many 2x4s do I need for a 10×24 shed?

148 for a 10×24 gable shed with a 60 in double door and one window: 136 framing boards (79 at 8 ft, 6 at 10 ft, 24 at 12 ft, 23 at 14 ft, 4 at 16 ft), plus 3 for decking seam blocks, 8 temporary wall braces and 1 temporary ridge post.

How many sheets of plywood, OSB and siding does a 10×24 shed need?

8 sheets of 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood for the floor, 13 sheets of 7/16 in OSB for the roof, 22 sheets of 5/8 in T1-11 for the walls, gables and door leaves, and 2 sheets of 1/2 in plywood for the soffit and header fillers.

How many bundles of shingles for a 10×24 shed roof?

13 bundles of 3-tab shingles for the 6/12 gable roof, which works out to about 309 sq ft with an 8 in eave and 4 in rake overhang. The count includes the starter course, the ridge cap and about 10 percent extra.

Are there free 10×24 shed plans with a materials list?

This page is a free 10×24 materials list with cut lengths. The 3DSHEDPLANS 10×24 gable shed plan PDF adds 40+ steps, 3D images and its own printable list, and a free 10×24 preview PDF shows the format before you buy.