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For a 14×24 gable shed on skids, the main items on the 14×24 shed material list are 120 framing 2x4s, 51 2x6s, 24 treated 2x6s, 10 treated 4x4s, 11 sheets of 3/4 in plywood, 14 of OSB, 25 of T1-11 and 17 shingle bundles. It assumes 94 1/2 in walls, a 6/12 roof and 16 in spacing.

Every quantity and cut length on this page comes from the 3DSHEDPLANS plan generator, which models each board and counts what to buy. It is a shopping aid, not a stamped engineering drawing. This 14×24 build passed all 83 checks of our framing audit, including the checks on where each long board is spliced. The list covers one 60 in double door and two 36 x 36 in windows.

What this 14×24 shed material list assumes

The generator ran a shed 14 ft deep and 24 ft wide, with 336 sq ft of floor and the ridge running the 24 ft way. These are its settings:

  • Walls: 94 1/2 in tall including the bottom plate and double top plate, so wall studs are cut to 90 in (7′ 6″).
  • Spacing: studs, floor joists and rafters all at 16 in on center.
  • Roof: 6/12 pitch, 2×6 rafters, a 2×8 ridge board, 8 in eave overhang and 4 in rake overhang. The roof works out to about 419 sq ft.
  • Floor: five pressure-treated 4×4 skids 24 ft long, about 41 in apart, with 2×6 joists cut to 13′ 9″ at 16 in on center and 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood.
  • Pad: crushed stone 26 x 16 ft and 4 in deep, 12 in wider than the shed on every side.
  • Loads: the 2×6 rafters pass a span table check at 30 psf ground snow (SPF #2 at 16 in, 84 in run). That is the generator’s design assumption; if your area’s snow load may be higher, check your local permit office before you buy rafter stock.
  • Openings: a 60 in wide double door on 76 1/2 in trimmers in the 24 ft front wall, and one 36 x 36 in window in each 14 ft gable wall. The 24 ft back wall has no openings.

Our 14×24 gable shed plan has the same footprint and roof, but with a 9 ft wide roll-up door and a 30 in single door, so its door framing and its own printable list differ from this run. If you buy that plan, shop from the plan’s list.

Shopping list by stage

Lumber sizes are nominal. A 2×4 measures about 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in, as the American Wood Council explains. Check the grade stamp on plywood and OSB; the APA trademark guide shows how to read it.

Totals at a glance

Material Total
2×4 framing boards, all lengths (12 more below) 120
2×4 x 8 ft for the flat decking seam blocks 3
2×4 x 12 ft for temporary braces and a ridge post 9
Pressure-treated 2×4 x 16 ft (skid splice scabs) 2
Pressure-treated 2×6 (20 joists, 4 for the two rims) 24
Pressure-treated 4×4 (two per 24 ft skid) 10
2×6 (rafters, frieze blocks, window headers) 51
2×8 (ridge and door header) 3
3/4 in T&G plywood sheets (floor) 11
7/16 in OSB sheets (roof) 14
5/8 in T1-11 sheets (walls, gables, door leaves) 25
1/2 in plywood sheets (soffit, header fillers) 2
3-tab shingle bundles 17

Floor

Item Qty Used for
Pressure-treated 4×4 x 16 ft, tagged for ground contact 5 Long piece of each 24′ 0″ skid
Pressure-treated 4×4 x 8 ft, tagged for ground contact 5 Short piece of each 24′ 0″ skid
Pressure-treated 2×4 x 16 ft 2 Ten 3′ 0″ scabs, one on each side of every skid joint
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 14 ft 20 Floor joists cut to 13′ 9″ (19 on layout plus a second joist at the rim joint)
Pressure-treated 2×6 x 12 ft and 14 ft 2 each Two 24′ 0″ rim joists, one 12 ft and one 14 ft board each
3/4 in T&G plywood, 4×8 sheet 11 Floor decking (336 sq ft)
2×4 x 8 ft 3 Flat blocks under the decking seams
Crushed stone 3/4 in, loose 6.2 cu yd Gravel pad, measured loose before tamping
Deck screws 2 in (or 6d ring-shank nails), rated for treated lumber 9 lb Decking

Walls and roof framing

Item Qty Used for
2×4 x 8 ft 83 Wall studs, cripples, sills, gable studs, lookout blocks, the short front plate and cap pieces
2×4 x 12 ft 4 Back wall plates (two boards each)
2×4 x 14 ft 9 Side wall plates and cap plates, door and window trimmers
2×4 x 16 ft 24 Rafter ties, collar ties, long pieces of the front plates and both cap plates
2×6 x 10 ft 42 38 rafters and 4 fly rafters
2×6 x 8 ft 9 Frieze blocks and window headers
2×8 x 12 ft 2 Door header and the short ridge piece
2×8 x 14 ft 1 Long ridge piece
Hurricane ties, H2.5A type or equal 38 Rafter to plate
2×4 x 12 ft, temporary 9 8 wall braces and 1 post under the ridge joint, reused later

The three header filler strips of 1/2 in plywood are ripped from a soffit sheet, so buy the soffit plywood with the wall lumber.

Ordering by stock length? Across all the tables that is 86 2×4 x 8 ft (83 framing plus 3 seam blocks) and 13 2×4 x 12 ft (4 back wall plates plus 9 temporary pieces), with the 14 ft and 16 ft counts as listed above.

Roof covering

Item Qty Used for
7/16 in OSB, 4×8 sheet 14 Roof sheathing
15 lb felt, 400 sq ft roll 2 Underlayment
3-tab shingles, 26 per bundle 17 bundles Roof, starter course and ridge cap
Drip edge, 10 ft 10 Eaves and rakes
Roofing nails 1 1/4 in galvanized 14 lb Shingles
Roofing cap nails 1 in 3 lb Felt
Roofing cement, 10 oz tube 2 Roofing
Louvered gable vent, 8 x 12 in 2 One in each gable
Insect screen, 2 ft x 25 ft 1 roll Vent holes and gaps at the eaves

Siding and trim

Item Qty Used for
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet 20 Walls (608 sq ft, before the door and window cut-outs)
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet 3 Both gable triangles
5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet 2 Door leaves (one per leaf)
1/2 in plywood, 4×8 sheet 2 Eave soffit and header fillers
Z-flashing, 10 ft 3 Wall siding to gable siding joint
Drip cap, 10 ft 2 Over the door and window head casings
1×8 x 12 ft and 14 ft 2 each Eave fascia (two 24′ 8″ runs, spliced)
1×8 x 10 ft 4 Rake fascia
1×4 x 16 ft 2 Corner trim on the eave walls
1×4 x 14 ft 4 Door casing sides, door stiles, Z braces
1×4 x 12 ft 1 Door rails
1×4 x 8 ft 9 Gable-wall corner trim, door head casing, window casings
1×2 x 8 ft 2 Door stop and astragal
Exterior paint and primer in one 7 gal Two coats of about 856 sq ft each (rough-sawn T1-11 soaks up more, so check the coverage on the can)
Exterior caulk 3 tubes Trim

Hardware and windows

Item Qty
Framing nails 3 1/2 in (16d), hot-dip galvanized (about 1,761 nails plus 10 percent) 49 lb
Siding nails 2 1/2 in (8d), hot-dip galvanized 28 lb
Sheathing nails 2 1/2 in (8d) for OSB 14 lb
Connector nails 1 1/2 in for the ties 3 lb
Construction adhesive, 10 oz tube 9
T-strap door hinges 6
Door handle and latch set 1
Barrel bolts for the fixed leaf 2
Exterior screws 1 1/4 in (door frame to T1-11) 1 lb
Exterior screws 2 1/2 in (hinge straps into framing) 1 box
Prefabricated window, 36 x 36 in rough opening 2
Flashing tape 4 in 1 roll
Wood shims 1 bundle

Cut list highlights

Most of the 14×24 cut list is square cuts: 61 wall studs at 7′ 6″ and 20 floor joists at 13′ 9″. The parts below are the ones with a bevel, a birdsmouth, a splice or several lengths of one part.

Part Lumber Cut length Qty
Rafter (board length, see below) 2×6 8′ 8 3/4″ 38
Fly rafter (rake) 2×6 8′ 8 3/4″ 4
Ridge board (spliced) 2×8 24′ 8″ 1
Rafter tie (interior pairs, at the plates) 2×4 14′ 0″ 17
Collar tie 2×4 5′ 2 7/8″ 9
Lookout block (rake overhang) 2×4 2 1/2″ 20
Frieze block (over the eave walls, top beveled) 2×6 1′ 1″ (32), 1′ 0 1/4″ and 1′ 1 3/4″ (2 each) 36
Skid (spliced) PT 4×4 24′ 0″ 5
Skid splice scab PT 2×4 3′ 0″ 10
Rim joist (spliced) PT 2×6 24′ 0″ 2
Front and back wall plate (spliced) 2×4 24′ 0″ 4
Front and back cap plate (spliced) 2×4 23′ 5″ 2
Side wall plate 2×4 13′ 4 7/8″ 4
Side wall cap plate 2×4 14′ 0″ 2
Door header (2×8 doubled + 1/2 ply) 2×8 5′ 3″ 2
Door trimmer 2×4 6′ 4 1/2″ 2
Window header (2×6 doubled + 1/2 ply) 2×6 3′ 3″ 4
Window trimmer 2×4 6′ 1″ 4
Center gable stud (under the ridge) 2×4 3′ 2 3/4″ 2
Gable end studs 2×4 9 lengths from 6 5/8″ to 3′ 2 5/8″, each 4 in longer than the last 2 each

Rafters. The 8′ 8 3/4″ figure is the board each rafter needs, measured long point to long point on the top edge from the ridge plumb cut to the tail plumb cut, including the 8 in eave overhang. That is 104 3/4 in, so each of the 42 rafters and fly rafters comes out of one 10 ft 2×6 with about 15 1/4 in left over.

Mark the plumb cuts with a speed square pivoted to 6 on the common scale (26.6 degrees). The birdsmouth seat is 3 1/2 in, the full width of the wall plate, which makes the notch about 1 9/16 in deep, inside the generator’s one-third-of-depth limit. Cut one pattern rafter, test it at both ends and the middle of the 24 ft run, then trace the other 37. The 4 fly rafters hang off the lookout blocks and the ridge extension, so they get the ridge plumb cut but no birdsmouth.

Why 2×6 rafters and a 2×8 ridge. At 14 ft deep each rafter runs 84 in from the wall to the ridge. The generator checks that run against a span table for 2×6 at 30 psf ground snow. The ridge must be at least as deep as the rafter’s 6 1/8 in plumb cut, which a 2×8 (7 1/4 in) covers and a 2×6 (5 1/2 in) does not. On our 12×24 shed material list the run is 72 in and the rafters are 2×4.

Ridge. The ridge is 24′ 8″, 4 in past each gable wall to carry the fly rafters. It goes up in two pieces: 128 in from a 12 ft 2×8 and 168 in, the whole 14 ft 2×8. The joint is centered on a rafter pair, and the list buys a temporary 2×4 post to stand under the joint until both pairs on either side are nailed.

How the 24 ft runs are spliced. Every 24 ft member is two boards, and the generator places each joint so neighbors never line up:

Member Pieces Where the joint lands
Skids 8 ft + 16 ft 8 ft from one end on three skids and 16 ft on the other two, alternating, each under a joist and scabbed both sides
Rim joists 12 ft + 14 ft board 143 1/4 in, on the seam of a layout joist and the extra second joist
Front wall plates 8 ft + 16 ft 96 in, centered on a full-height stud
Front cap plate 16 ft + 7′ 5″ 192 in, 8 ft from the plate joints below
Back wall plates 12 ft + 12 ft 144 in, centered on a full-height stud
Back cap plate 8 ft + 15′ 5″ 96 in, 4 ft from the plate joints below
Ridge 10′ 8″ + 14 ft 128 in, centered on a rafter pair with a temporary post
Eave fascia 12 ft + 14 ft board One joint per 24′ 8″ run; land it on a rafter tail

The skid joints sit 8 ft apart on neighboring skids and at least 16 in clear of the rim joints. Tamp the gravel under each skid joint in thin layers so the joint is less likely to settle.

Headers. The 60 in door opening gets a doubled 2×8 header with a 1/2 in plywood filler, on trimmers cut to 6′ 4 1/2″, with three 6 1/4″ cripples above it. The bottom plate is cut out of the doorway after the wall is up, so the door leaves swing over the floor. Each window gets a doubled 2×6 header on 6′ 1″ trimmers, two 11 1/2″ cripples above, a 3′ 0″ sill and two 2′ 11 1/2″ cripples below.

Gable studs. Each 14 ft gable has one 3′ 2 3/4″ center stud plus nine end studs, one of each length from 6 5/8″ to 3′ 2 5/8″. The 16 in layout runs from one corner across the whole gable, so studs on the far slope land halfway between the heights of those on the near slope, and the nine lengths step 4 in apart. Measure each one off your actual end rafter before cutting.

Siding at the rim. On the 24 ft walls the T1-11 laps the rim joist by 2 15/16 in and is nailed into it. On the 14 ft side walls it laps only 3/4 in, too little to nail into the end joist, so the generator does not nail it there. Cover that end joist with Z-flashing or a 1x skirt board so rain cannot run behind the siding.

Frieze blocks. The 32 main blocks are 1′ 1″, not the 14 1/2 in you might expect between rafters at 16 in on center. Each interior rafter has a rafter tie nailed beside it at the plate, which takes another 1 1/2 in out of every bay. Cut a test block and fit it before you cut all 36.

Plates. The side walls have 13′ 4 7/8″ bottom plates, 1/8 in short of the gap between the long walls, with 14′ 0″ cap plates that lap over the front and back walls to lock the corners.

Gable vs lean-to: what changes

We ran the same 14×24 footprint as a lean-to (single-slope) roof at 3/12, with a 77 in low back wall, the same 60 in door in the high front wall and one window in the back wall. That is a generator run for comparison only; it is not a plan we sell. The lean-to passed all 64 of its audit checks. The skids, joists and decking stay the same; the studs, rafters and siding change.

Item Gable (6/12) Generator lean-to (3/12)
Rafters 38 2×6 at 8′ 8 3/4″ + 4 fly 19 2×8 at 15′ 11 1/2″ + 2 fly
Ridge board 2×8, 24′ 8″ from two boards None
Wall studs 7′ 6″ on all four walls 9′ 5 5/8″ front, 6′ 0 1/2″ back, stepped on the sides
2×4 framing boards bought 120 74
2×6 boards bought (not treated) 51 1
2×8 boards bought 3 26
T1-11 sheets 25, all 4×8 22: eight 4×10, two 4×9, twelve 4×8
Roof OSB sheets 14 13
Shingle bundles 17 14
Felt 2 rolls 3 rolls, laid double below 4/12
Windows 2 1
Framing nails 49 lb 34 lb
Extra hardware 3 Z-flashing, 2 gable vents, ridge post 4 twist straps at the wall corners
Crew to raise the front wall 6 people (about 660 lb, sided flat) 3 people (about 340 lb, raised bare)
Floor 5 skids, 20 joists, 11 sheets 5 skids, 20 joists, 11 sheets

On a 14 ft deep shed the lean-to rafters span the whole depth, so the generator moves up to 2×8: it checks a 161 in span against a 183 in limit for 2×8 at 30 psf. Those 21 rafters each need an 18 ft board (a 15′ 11 1/2″ cut leaves no room to square the ends of a 16 ft board), which many yards have to order, along with the 4×10 siding sheets for the high front wall. Each side wall has 12 studs stepping from 6′ 2 3/8″ to 9′ 6 1/4″ under a 13′ 10″ sloped top plate.

At 3/12, read the minimum slope on the shingle wrapper and follow the maker’s low-slope instructions. For more on single-slope builds, see how to build a lean-to shed, all lean-to shed plans and our gable vs lean-to vs hip roof comparison.

Where the waste goes

  • Wall studs: 90 in studs leave about 6 in from each 8 ft board.
  • Rafters: 104 3/4 in rafters leave about 15 1/4 in from each 10 ft 2×6.
  • Floor joists: 13′ 9″ from a 14 ft board leaves 3 in for squaring the ends.
  • Rafter ties: the seventeen 14′ 0″ ties come from 16 ft boards, leaving about 2 ft each. Cut the 8 brace stakes (just under 24 in after the saw kerf) from these.
  • Collar ties: three 5′ 2 7/8″ ties come out of each 16 ft 2×4 with only about 3 in to spare, so measure and cut carefully.
  • No trim room on the 24 ft runs: the skids (8 + 16 ft), the front plates (8 + 16 ft) and the back plates (12 + 12 ft) add up to exactly 24 ft. The 14 ft ridge piece and the two 14′ 0″ side cap plates also use whole boards. Measure these boards at the yard and check that the factory ends are square. A spare 16 ft 2×4, 12 ft 2×4 and 16 ft treated 4×4 cost little next to a second trip if one end is out of square.
  • Scabs: five 3′ 0″ scabs per 16 ft treated 2×4 leave 1 ft each.
  • Sheets: 11 floor sheets cover 352 sq ft for a 336 sq ft floor, and 20 wall sheets cover 640 sq ft for 608 sq ft of wall. Many tongue and groove panels cover about 47 1/2 in net, so check the net face width on the label before you lay out the rows.
  • No spares: the counts include nothing for rejects. Sight down each board’s edge at the yard and skip bowed or twisted ones, and add a few 2×4 x 8 ft if you expect to cull warped or split boards.

Tools and crew for a 14×24 build

  • Circular saw, speed square and framing square for 61 stud cuts and 42 rafters; cut the 2 1/2 in lookout blocks from a long clamped stick with a stop block, never as loose scraps
  • Framing hammer or framing nailer, and a drill/driver for the screws
  • 4 ft level, 30 ft tape for checking that the floor diagonals match (each one is about 27′ 9″), and a string line for the 24 ft rims and plates
  • A rented plate compactor for 6.2 cu yd of gravel, laid in thin layers
  • A crew: the generator plans for one helper on most steps and 5 helpers (6 people) to raise the 24 ft front wall, because it is sided while it lies flat and weighs about 660 lb with the siding on

Common mistakes

  • Mixing up 14×24 and 24×14. In this list the ridge runs along the 24 ft side. Turn it the other way and each rafter’s run grows from 84 in to 144 in, past what these 2×6 rafters were checked for, and the ridge, gables and every rafter length change.
  • Using 2×4 rafters from a smaller shed’s list. The 14 ft depth is why the rafters are 2×6 and the ridge is 2×8. Copying a 12 ft deep list undersizes both.
  • Too few skids. The generator keeps skids no more than 48 in apart. Five under a 14 ft floor land about 41 in apart; four would not meet that limit.
  • Moving the splices. The joint positions above keep plate, cap, skid and rim joints apart. Splicing every member at one spot puts all the weak points in a line. Do not plan to drag a shed on spliced skids to a new spot later.
  • Forgetting the door sheets. The siding cut out of the doorway is 76 1/2 in tall, shorter than the 77 1/4 in door leaf, so each leaf needs its own new T1-11 sheet.
  • Skipping rafter ties. A ridge board is not a beam. The 17 rafter ties at the plates stop the 24 ft walls from spreading; the 9 collar ties higher up do not replace them.
  • Swapping materials without recounting. This list is for 3-tab shingles and T1-11. Architectural shingles, metal roofing or lap siding cover differently, so recount from the coverage printed on the bundle or the maker’s install guide.
  • Untreated wood near the ground. Skids, rims, joists and scabs are pressure treated; plain framing lumber there rots. Use ground-contact rated wood for the skids, and consider it for the joists and rims too since they sit just above the gravel. Use hot-dip galvanized nails and treated-lumber rated screws in treated wood. The USDA Wood Handbook covers why wet, untreated wood decays.

Permit, setback and tie-down rules for a 336 sq ft shed vary by town, so check your local permit office before you order. Our shed permit checklist lists what to ask.

For how to read any list like this one, see our shed material list guide. For the base under the skids, see shed foundation options. For a rough budget, see how much it costs to build a shed, then price this list at two yards. For other sizes, try the shed material calculator.

Get the full plan

The 14×24 gable shed plan is a 3DSHEDPLANS PDF for this footprint with 40+ steps, 3D images and its own printable material list, built around a 9 ft roll-up door and a 30 in single door. Need 2 ft more depth? See the 16×24 gable shed plan or the 16×24 hip roof shed plan. The 10×24 gable shed plan shares the 24 ft length, and the 14×20 lean-to shed plan shares the 14 ft depth.

Want to see the format first? Download the free 14×24 gable shed plan preview PDF. Need more or less room? Compare all gable shed plans or browse every size on the shed plans page.

Frequently asked questions

What is on a 14×24 shed material list?

For a 14×24 gable shed with a 6/12 roof, our generator lists 120 framing 2x4s, 51 plain 2x6s, 3 2x8s, 24 treated 2x6s, 10 treated 4x4s, 11 sheets of 3/4 in plywood, 14 of OSB, 25 of T1-11, 2 of 1/2 in plywood and 17 shingle bundles, plus trim, nails and hardware.

Are there 14×24 shed plans with a material list?

Yes. The 3DSHEDPLANS 14×24 gable shed plan PDF has its own printable material list for its 9 ft roll-up door and side door layout, and the free 14×24 preview PDF shows the format. This page is a free generator list with cut lengths.

How many 2x4s do I need for a 14×24 shed?

120 for the framing of a 14×24 gable shed with a 60 in double door and two windows: 83 at 8 ft, 4 at 12 ft, 9 at 14 ft and 24 at 16 ft. Add 3 more at 8 ft for decking seam blocks and 9 at 12 ft for temporary braces and a ridge post.

How many sheets of plywood, OSB and siding does a 14×24 shed need?

11 sheets of 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood for the floor, 14 sheets of 7/16 in OSB for the roof, 25 sheets of 5/8 in T1-11 for the walls, gables and door leaves, and 2 sheets of 1/2 in plywood for the soffit and header fillers.

How many bundles of shingles for a 14×24 shed roof?

17 bundles of 3-tab shingles for the 6/12 gable roof, which is about 419 sq ft with an 8 in eave and 4 in rake overhang. The count includes the starter course, ridge cap and about 10 percent extra.

Shed building guides