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A 10×10 lean-to shed material list on skids comes to 48 framing 2x4s, 16 plain 2x6s (11 are 12 ft rafter stock), 11 treated 2x6s and 4 treated 4×4 skids. Sheets: 4 floor plywood, 5 OSB, 14 T1-11, 1 soffit plywood; 5 shingle bundles. Assumes an 80 in back wall, 109 1/8 in front wall and 3/12 roof.
The counts are grouped by the board lengths the yard sells. The part that trips people up is the side walls: each has 9 studs of 9 different lengths under a sloped plate. This list is for a freestanding shed with a shingle roof; it does not cover a metal roof, a ledger against a house or ground anchors. For the house-wall version, see building a lean-to shed against a house.
What this 10×10 lean-to list assumes
This list is for a shed 10 ft deep and 10 ft wide, with 100 sq ft of floor. The roof slopes front to back, so the front wall with the door is the tall one. These are its settings:
- Walls: the back (low) wall is 80 in tall and the front (high) wall is 109 1/8 in, both including the bottom plate and double top plate. Back studs are 6′ 3 1/2″ and front studs 8′ 8 5/8″.
- Roof: 3/12 pitch (about 14 degrees), 2×6 rafters with a birdsmouth on both walls, 8 in overhangs front and back, 4 in rakes. The roof is 128 in long by about 140 in down the slope, roughly 125 sq ft.
- Height: about 10 ft 7 in tall overall at the high front edge, measured from the bottom of the skids.
- Spacing: studs, floor joists and rafters at 16 in on center.
- Floor: four pressure-treated 4×4 skids on a crushed stone pad, 2×6 joists across the 10 ft depth, 3/4 in tongue and groove plywood.
- Loads: the 2×6 rafters span 113 in against a 143 in limit in the span check behind this list (SPF #2 at 16 in, 30 psf ground snow). In heavier snow country, check your local permit office for your snow load.
- Openings: a 60 in double door in the front wall and one 36 x 36 in window in the back wall.
Shopping list by stage: the full 10×10 lean-to shed material list
Lumber sizes are nominal. A 2×4 measures about 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in and a 2×6 about 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in, as the American Wood Council explains. Check the grade stamp on plywood and OSB; the APA trademark guide shows how to read it.
Floor
| Item | Qty | Used for |
|---|---|---|
| Pressure-treated 4×4 x 10 ft | 4 | Skids |
| Pressure-treated 2×6 x 10 ft | 11 | 9 floor joists and 2 rim joists |
| 3/4 in T&G plywood, 4×8 sheet | 4 | Floor decking |
| 2×4 x 8 ft | 2 | Flat blocks under the decking seams |
| Crushed stone 3/4 in, loose | 2.2 cu yd | Gravel pad |
| Deck screws 2 in (or 6d ring-shank nails) | 3 lb | Decking |
The decking lays out as two full 47 1/2 in rows and one 25 in ripped row across the 10 ft joist span, so no filler strip is needed. Ask for treated lumber rated for ground contact for the skids, rims and joists; the tag on each board says which rating it has.
Walls
| Item | Qty | Used for |
|---|---|---|
| 2×4 x 8 ft | 15 | Shorter side-wall studs, back sill and lower cripples, front cripples, lookout blocks |
| 2×4 x 10 ft | 26 | Front wall studs, taller side-wall studs, all wall plates and cap plates, sloped top plates |
| 2×4 x 12 ft | 1 | Back window trimmers |
| 2×4 x 14 ft | 6 | Back wall studs (two per board), front door trimmers |
| 2×8 x 12 ft | 1 | Door header |
| 2×6 x 8 ft | 5 | Window header, blocking between rafters |
| Strap ties (twist straps) | 4 | Lean-to wall corners |
| Temporary braces 2×4 x 12 ft | 12 | Plumb and diagonal wall bracing, reused later |
| 2×4 x 8 ft | 3 | 8 brace stakes (24 in, pointed) and 8 deck cleats (12 in) |
The two header filler strips of 1/2 in plywood are ripped from the soffit sheet, so buy that sheet with the wall lumber. With the decking blocks, stakes, cleats and 12 braces, the truck carries 65 2x4s in all.
Roof
| Item | Qty | Used for |
|---|---|---|
| 2×6 x 12 ft, SPF #2 or better | 11 | 9 rafters and 2 fly rafters |
| Hurricane ties, H2.5A type or equal | 18 | Rafter to plate, both walls |
| 7/16 in OSB, 4×8 sheet | 5 | Roof sheathing |
| 15 lb felt, 400 sq ft roll | 1 | Underlayment, laid double below 4/12 |
| 3-tab shingles, 26 per bundle | 5 bundles | Roof and starter course |
| Drip edge, 10 ft | 5 | Eaves and rakes |
| Roofing nails 1 1/4 in galvanized | 5 lb | Shingles |
| Roofing cap nails 1 in | 1 lb | Felt |
| Roofing cement, 10 oz tube | 2 | Roofing |
The 16 blocks between the rafters over each wall come out of the 2×6 x 8 ft boards listed under walls.
Siding and trim
| Item | Qty | Used for |
|---|---|---|
| 5/8 in T1-11, 4×10 sheet | 3 | Front (high) wall |
| 5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet | 3 | Back (low) wall |
| 5/8 in T1-11, 4×10 / 4×9 / 4×8 sheet | 2 / 2 / 2 | Sloped side walls |
| 5/8 in T1-11, 4×8 sheet | 2 | Door leaves (one per leaf) |
| 1/2 in plywood, 4×8 sheet | 1 | Eave soffit and header fillers |
| 1×8 x 12 ft | 2 | Eave fascia |
| 1×8 x 14 ft | 2 | Rake fascia |
| 1×4 x 14 ft | 6 | Back corner trim, door casing sides, stiles, Z braces |
| 1×4 x 12 ft | 1 | Door rails |
| 1×4 x 10 ft | 4 | Front corner trim |
| 1×4 x 8 ft | 3 | Door head casing, window casing |
| 1×2 x 8 ft | 2 | Door stop and astragal |
| Drip cap, 10 ft | 1 | Over the door and window head casings |
| Insect screen, 2 ft x 25 ft | 1 roll | Gaps at the eaves and soffit (the list has no roof or gable vents) |
| Exterior paint and primer in one | 4 gal | Two coats, about 463 sq ft each |
| Exterior caulk | 3 tubes | Trim |
Hardware and window
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Framing nails 3 1/2 in (16d), hot-dip galvanized | 21 lb |
| Siding nails 2 1/2 in (8d), hot-dip galvanized | 10 lb |
| Sheathing nails 2 1/2 in (8d) for OSB | 5 lb |
| Connector nails 1 1/2 in for ties and straps | 2 lb |
| Construction adhesive, 10 oz tube | 6 |
| T-strap door hinges | 6 |
| Door handle and latch set | 1 |
| Barrel bolts for the fixed leaf | 2 |
| Exterior screws 1 1/4 in (door frame to T1-11) | 1 lb |
| Exterior screws 2 1/2 in (hinge straps into framing) | 1 box |
| Prefabricated window, 36 x 36 in rough opening | 1 |
| Flashing tape 4 in | 1 roll |
| Wood shims | 1 bundle |
Cut list highlights
Most of the 10×10 lean-to cut list is square cuts: 9 front studs at 8′ 8 5/8″, 10 back studs at 6′ 3 1/2″, 9 floor joists at 9′ 9″ and four skids at 10′ 0″. The parts below have angled cuts or a different length each time. A pattern cut wrong spreads to every copy, so dry-fit the first of each part on your own frame before cutting the rest.
| Part | Lumber | Cut length | Qty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rafter (board length) | 2×6 | 11′ 9 1/2″ | 9 |
| Fly rafter (rake) | 2×6 | 11′ 9 1/2″ | 2 |
| Side wall sloped top plate | 2×4 | 9′ 8 3/8″ | 2 |
| Side wall bottom plate | 2×4 | 9′ 4 7/8″ | 2 |
| Left wall studs | 2×4 | 6′ 5 3/8″ to 8′ 9 1/4″ | 9, all different |
| Right wall studs | 2×4 | 8′ 9 1/4″ down to 6′ 5 3/8″ | 9, all different |
| Door header (2×8 doubled + 1/2 ply) | 2×8 | 5′ 3″ | 2 |
| Door trimmer | 2×4 | 6′ 4 1/2″ | 2 |
| Cripple over the door | 2×4 | 1′ 8 7/8″ | 4 |
| Window header (2×6 doubled + 1/2 ply) | 2×6 | 3′ 3″ | 2 |
| Window trimmer | 2×4 | 5′ 10″ | 2 |
| Blocking between rafters | 2×6 | 5 3/4″, 1′ 1 3/4″ and 1′ 2 1/2″ | 2, 2 and 12 |
| Lookout block (rake overhang) | 2×4 | 2 1/2″ | 14 |
| Eave fascia | 1×8 | 10′ 8″ | 2 |
| Rake fascia (tip to tip) | 1×8 | 11′ 11 1/2″ | 2 |
| Front corner trim, side face (slope cut) | 1×4 | 9′ 2 3/4″ long point, 9′ 1 7/8″ short point | 2 |
| Back corner trim, side face (slope cut) | 1×4 | 6′ 9 3/8″ long point, 6′ 8 1/2″ short point | 2 |
Rafters. The 11′ 9 1/2″ figure is the board each rafter needs, measured corner to corner. Along the top edge it is about 11′ 8 3/16″, including both 8 in overhangs. Plumb cuts are at about 14 degrees (3/12).
Each rafter gets two birdsmouths, one on each wall, with a 3 1/2 in seat that notches under 1 in into the 2×6, well inside the common one-third guideline. Cut one pattern rafter, test it on both walls, then trace the other 8. The 2 fly rafters hang at the rakes on the 14 lookout blocks.
Side wall studs. Each side wall has 9 studs under a sloped top plate. Every length is the long point, from the top of the bottom plate to the underside of the sloped plate.
The left wall’s studs, short to tall, are 6′ 5 3/8″, 6′ 8 1/4″, 7′ 0 1/4″, 7′ 4 1/4″, 7′ 8 1/4″, 8′ 0 1/4″, 8′ 4 1/4″, 8′ 8 1/4″ and 8′ 9 1/4″. The right wall’s, tall to short, are 8′ 9 1/4″, 8′ 6 1/4″, 8′ 2 1/4″, 7′ 10 1/4″, 7′ 6 1/4″, 7′ 2 1/4″, 6′ 10 1/4″, 6′ 6 1/4″ and 6′ 5 3/8″.
Only the two corner lengths, 6′ 5 3/8″ and 8′ 9 1/4″, appear in both walls. The middle studs differ by 2 in from wall to wall, so a stud put in the wrong wall sits up to 2 in off the roof line. Mark each stud with its wall and position as you cut it. Cut the top of each stud at the roof angle (3 on a speed square, about 14 degrees) and check the first one against the plate.
Headers. The 60 in door gets a doubled 2×8 header with a 1/2 in plywood filler on 6′ 4 1/2″ trimmers. The front wall is tall, so the four cripples above the header are 1′ 8 7/8″, far longer than the 6 1/4″ cripples on a 10×10 gable. The back window header is a doubled 2×6 on 5′ 10″ trimmers, and it fills the space right up to the plates, so there are no cripples above it. Below the window go a 3′ 0″ sill and two 2′ 8 1/2″ cripples.
Plates. The front and back plates and cap plates run the full 10′ 0″. Each side wall has a 9′ 4 7/8″ bottom plate and a single 9′ 8 3/8″ sloped top plate between the front and back walls. The 4 twist straps tie the lean-to wall corners together.
Gable vs lean-to: what changes
The same 10×10 footprint run as a gable at 6/12 (94 1/2 in walls, door in the front, a window in one side wall) keeps the floor and changes the roof framing, the wall heights and the siding.
| Item | Lean-to (3/12) | Gable (6/12) |
|---|---|---|
| Rafters | 9 2×6 at 11′ 9 1/2″ + 2 fly | 18 2×4 at 6′ 5″ + 4 fly |
| Ridge board | None | 2×6, cut 10′ 8″ |
| Rafter ties and collar ties | None (no ridge, no outward thrust) | 7 rafter ties + 4 collar ties |
| Wall studs | 8′ 8 5/8″ front, 6′ 3 1/2″ back, stepped sides | 7′ 6″ on all four walls |
| 2×4 framing boards (plus 5 for blocks, stakes and cleats, and 12 braces, in both) | 48 | 88 |
| 2×6 boards (not treated) | 16 | 2 |
| T1-11 sheets | 14: five 4×10, two 4×9, seven 4×8 | 16, all 4×8 |
| Roof OSB sheets | 5 | 6 |
| Shingle bundles | 5 | 6 (incl. ridge cap) |
| Felt | 1 roll, laid double | 1 roll, single |
| Fascia | 1×8 | 1×6 |
| Drip edge, 10 ft | 5 | 6 |
| Framing nails | 21 lb | 28 lb |
| Extra hardware | 4 twist straps | 2 gable vents, 2 Z-flashing |
| Floor (skids, joists, decking) | 4, 9, 4 sheets | 4, 9, 4 sheets |
The lean-to needs 40 fewer framing 2x4s and no ridge or gable triangles. In exchange it buys 14 more plain 2x6s, a double layer of felt, and 7 of its 14 siding sheets are 4×10 or 4×9 instead of 4×8. A lean-to sends all its roof water off the back edge, so keep that side clear of fences and paths. Our gable vs lean-to vs hip roof comparison covers looks, headroom and drainage.
10×10 vs 10×12 lean-to: what 2 more feet of width add
Both sizes are 10 ft deep, so the rafters, wall heights and side-wall studs stay the same: the 10×12 uses the same 11′ 9 1/2″ rafter boards and the same 4×10, 4×9 and 4×8 siding mix. The extra 2 ft of width adds 1 rafter, 1 floor joist, 2 hurricane ties, 2 framing 2x4s, 1 sheet each of floor plywood and OSB, 1 bundle of shingles and 1 drip edge, and the skids and rims move up to 12 ft stock. The 2×4 stock lengths shift a little too. Our 10×12 lean-to shed material list has the full list for that size.
Where the waste goes
Buying by stock length means every cut leaves an offcut. Here is where the scraps on a 10×10 lean-to come from:
- Rafters: 11′ 9 1/2″ from a 12 ft 2×6 leaves about 2 1/2 in. There is little room for a bad end, so pick straight boards with square, uncracked ends.
- Back studs: two 6′ 3 1/2″ studs come out of each 14 ft 2×4, leaving about 17 in. The two 6′ 4 1/2″ door trimmers pair up in one more 14 ft board and leave about 15 in.
- Front studs: 8′ 8 5/8″ from a 10 ft board leaves about 15 3/8 in each, enough for blocks but short of a 24 in stake. The stakes and cleats get their own three 8 ft boards on the list.
- Window trimmers: both 5′ 10″ trimmers come out of one 12 ft 2×4 with 4 in to spare.
- Floor joists: 9′ 9″ from a 10 ft board leaves 3 in for squaring the ends.
- Fascia: each 10′ 8″ eave fascia leaves about 16 in of a 12 ft 1×8. Each 11′ 11 1/2″ rake fascia comes from a 14 ft 1×8 and leaves about 2 ft.
- No spares: the counts are exact, with no extra boards built in. Add a few 2×4 x 8 ft (and a spare 12 ft 2×6 for the rafters) if you expect to reject warped or split boards.
The longest boards on this list are 14 ft: six 2x4s, six 1x4s and the two 1×8 rake fascias. They hang well past a pickup bed, so flag the overhang or ask the yard to deliver.
Common mistakes
- Buying 4×8 siding for the front wall. The front wall is 109 1/8 in tall, just over 9 ft, so the front and part of each side take 4×10 or 4×9 T1-11 sheets. Check that your yard stocks them before you order; if not, ask about 4×8 sheets with a Z-flashed horizontal joint.
- Swapping the rafters for 2x4s. The 2×6 rafters span 113 in against a 143 in limit. Do not swap them for 2x4s or spread them to 24 in, and if you need more snow capacity, check your local permit office before you buy.
- Mixing up the side studs. The two side walls use different middle lengths, so a stud put in the wrong wall leaves a gap or a hump under the sloped plate. Lay out both sloped plates first, then cut and number the studs wall by wall.
- Single felt at 3/12. Below 4/12 this list lays the felt in a double layer. Read the minimum slope on the shingle wrapper. In cold country a low roof may also want an ice barrier at the eave, which this list does not include, so check your local permit office for the underlayment rule in your area.
- One birdsmouth instead of two. Each rafter bears on both walls, so it needs a seat at the front and at the back. Mark both from the pattern rafter.
- Raising the front wall short-handed. The bare front wall frame weighs about 181 lb, the heaviest lift on this shed. Frame it flat on the deck and raise it with a helper before any siding goes on.
- Untreated wood near the ground. Skids, rims and joists are pressure treated; plain framing lumber there rots. The USDA Wood Handbook explains why wet, untreated wood decays. Use hot-dip galvanized nails and treated-lumber rated screws in treated wood.
Setbacks, height limits (this shed stands about 10 ft 7 in), tie-downs and whether a 100 sq ft shed needs a permit vary by town, so check your local permit office before you order. For how to read any list like this one, see our shed material list guide, and for the base under the skids, shed foundation options. For other sizes, try the shed material calculator.
The list buys no roof or gable vents, only screen for the eave gaps; if you plan to store damp tools or work inside, read shed ventilation first. For ways to use the floor, see 10×10 shed ideas and layouts, and for the build order, how to build a lean-to shed.
Get the full plan
We do not sell a 10×10 lean-to plan yet. The nearest single-slope plan is the 10×12 lean-to shed plan, a 3DSHEDPLANS PDF with 3D drawings, cut details and its own printable material list for a shed 2 ft wider than this one. The 8×12 lean-to shed plan is a shallower option, and the 6×10 lean-to shed plan fits a narrow side yard.
If you want a printed set for this exact footprint, the 10×10 gable shed plan covers it with a gable roof. Download the free 10×10 gable preview PDF to see the format first. A gable with 20 sq ft more floor is the 10×12 gable shed plan. Compare every size on the lean-to shed plans and shed plans pages.
Frequently asked questions
How much lumber do I need for a 10×10 lean-to shed?
For a 10×10 lean-to on skids with an 80 in back wall and a 3/12 roof, the list calls for 48 2×4 framing boards plus 5 more 8 ft 2x4s for blocks, stakes and cleats, 16 plain 2x6s (11 of them 12 ft rafter stock), 11 pressure-treated 2x6s, 4 treated 4×4 skids and one 2×8 for the door header.
What is on a material list for a 10×10 shed with a lean-to roof?
Beyond the lumber: 4 sheets of 3/4 in T&G plywood, 5 sheets of 7/16 in OSB, 14 sheets of 5/8 in T1-11 (five 4×10, two 4×9, seven 4×8), 1 sheet of 1/2 in plywood, 5 bundles of 3-tab shingles, 1 roll of felt, 18 hurricane ties and 4 twist straps.
What size rafters does a 10×10 lean-to shed need?
The list uses 2×6 rafters at 16 in on center, cut from 12 ft boards to 11' 9 1/2". They span 113 in against the 143 in limit in the span check behind this list (SPF #2, 30 psf ground snow). In heavier snow country, check your local permit office for your snow load.
How many bundles of shingles for a 10×10 lean-to shed roof?
5 bundles of 3-tab shingles, including the starter course, for a 3/12 roof of about 125 sq ft with 8 in eaves and 4 in rakes. This list lays the felt double below 4/12, and one 400 sq ft roll covers it; check your local permit office for the rule in your area.
Is there a 10×10 shed material list PDF?
The 3DSHEDPLANS 10×10 gable plan PDF has its own printable material list, and a free preview PDF shows the format. We do not sell a 10×10 lean-to plan yet, so for the single-slope version this page is the list.
Shed building guides
- 12×20 Lean-To Shed Material List: Lumber, Sheets, Hardware
- How Big Should a Firewood Shed Be? Size Chart by Cord
- Will Firewood Dry in a Shed? Stack, Cover and Store It Right
- How Long Does It Take to Build a Shed? Hours by Size
- Metal vs Shingle Shed Roof: Cost, Lifespan, Noise
- 12×18 Shed Material List: Lumber, Sheets and Hardware
